There’s a habit to think that things that are well made, that are 'luxury' have to be classic, and that contemporary and modern means a diminishing of quality. I wanted to change that, about using a technical sports fabric in a very classic way, or making a suit in pure silk but with a very modern cut, maybe with sweat pants, a soft-fit jacket. | | | | Performers prepare backstage at a Chinese opera during the month of Hungry Ghost Festival (Yu Lan), Hong Kong, August 14, 2015.
(Anthony Kwan/Getty Images) | | | | | | “There’s a habit to think that things that are well made, that are 'luxury' have to be classic, and that contemporary and modern means a diminishing of quality. I wanted to change that, about using a technical sports fabric in a very classic way, or making a suit in pure silk but with a very modern cut, maybe with sweat pants, a soft-fit jacket.”
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| | rantnrave:// Fashion week in NYC begins today. I've been spending time in northern CALIFORNIA's heat wave just to prepare (kidding). After a lot of inward focus, rallying cries, public debate, and soothsaying, it has begun. Don't miss TOM FORD. NARCISO RODRIGUEZ is hosting showroom appointments so let's hope there's a timely lookbook release. Despite what anyone may have you believe, criticism matters and it will continue to matter. Critique can come in the form of print, candid conversations between colleagues and friends, social media comments, or your cousin on INSTAGRAM just being like "emoji WOW." Everyone has their own filter. If there's no criticism there's no dialogue. You can't smash the like button on everything. Does criticism have social media appeal? Does it move a quantification meter that counts how many milliseconds bots trawl a webpage? Do readers honestly care about that? VANESSA FRIEDMAN wrote she'll be delivering some honesty about the experience of going to shows, and all I can say is VVFRIEDMAN, the industry needs this now. Oh, and don't miss this roundup of fond memories from #NYFW... I've been happy about the number of shows/videos on style and clothing recently. VICE's STATES OF UNDRESS, RED BULL TV's SOCIAL FABRIC, releases on M2M, and fashion documentaries. The shows, in particular, have taken up the call of sharing the social and cultural side of clothing in the glaring absence of this kind of coverage in most fashion publications. If you haven't watched already, the first episode of Social Fabric, "Jeans," reveals truths about indigo rope-dying and creating a TINDER profile with experimental "non-demographic" label 69. I sometimes wish the shows would provide deeper investigation into their subject matter, but overall the teams are doing a wonderful job. Keep it going... Briefs: ALIBABA is opening a five-floor mall in HANGZHOU... That CORBYN bootleg tee has been accessioned by the V&A... HELMUT LANG is reissuing a select number of pieces from 1997–2005. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| “Every day that you’re working as a model, you’re objectified somehow.” Twelve models, in their own words, on issues like racism, body shaming and financial problems. | | |
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| How exactly did Japan become so enchanted with Scottish wools and patterns? This feature takes an in-depth look at how it all happened. | | |
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| Everyone credits the cerulean speech as the most accurate representation of how fashion works. But, it's not even right. | | |
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| The store of the future will become the most powerful media channel available to a brand, offering customer experiences that are the most profitable product a retailer can sell. But to get there, retail as we know it must die. | | |
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| Why notoriously litigious Disney is letting fan stores thrive. | | |
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| A collaboration between two dramatically different brands has prompted consumer hysteria -- and huge resale profits for canny fashion speculators. Luke Leitch travelled from the calm of the designer’s studio in Paris to the chaos of the pavement queues in London to find out why | | |
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| Legendary photographer Jayson Keeling captures the fast food chain's employees at work and at home in their new garments. | | |
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| New York Fashion Week Spring 2018 will be unlike any other before. Is that good or bad? Let these 19 tastemakers convince you. | | |
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| Young British designer often hailed for ‘rags-to-riches’ rise from provincial public housing estate sees his clothing as social commentary and its success as built on not being retail-friendly. He’s working on making it less pricey. | | |
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| Fashion Week is a circus, and no one relishes the big top more than Jeremy Scott. The designer's February runway show had fashionistas sweltering in an 80-degree room as they waited for attendee Kylie Jenner to appear, 45 minutes late and with TV crew in tow. | | |
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| Sneaker culture may have existed for decades, but until the introduction of social media a decade ago, the story of sneaker communities remains incomplete. | | |
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| Costume designer Nancy Steiner on the tall order of pleasing David Lynch--and fashioning show-stoppers for Laura Dern. | | |
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| The inspiration for Jason Wu's first foray into lifestyle products was indubitably his love for Sharpies. While on a recent trip to Hong Kong, the designer spotted a display of Sharpie pens, chock-full of unique colors and packaging developed in collaboration with artists. | | |
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| On this, the first day of September, most of us have chosen to set fire to everything we wore and used during the summer, watching as the ghosts of coconut | | |
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| At a time when millennials are ditching religious gatherings, these men of the (very good) cloth are winning them back. | | |
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| If you've been reading about custom tailoring for a while, you're sure to be familiar with Tom Mahon. The Savile Row trained cutter was one of the first people to write about bespoke tailoring online. Ten years ago, the online landscape for classic men's style was pretty bare -- there were few blogs; no Instagram. | | |
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| Off-White depicted a Canal Street-like set up in one of its most recent ad campaigns, shedding an artful light on one of the age-old problems facing fashion brands. | | |
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| Spanish designer Jaime Hayon has teamed up with British designer Jasper Morrison to launch a men's fashion label called Jijibaba. | | |
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| Benjamin Millepied has just landed after a 14-hour flight from Los Angeles to Venice’s Marco Polo airport, but where others might flop in their plush suite, the dancer and choreographer has a pilgrimage to make first. | | |
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| The Hudson River dumps 300 million microfibers into the Atlantic Ocean each day, according to a new study. Invisible to the naked eye, these fibers can cause health problems for animals and humans. | | |
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