If I make a retro whatever, I know it’ll sell because it did 25 years ago. It’s much more difficult to anticipate or create something that doesn’t exist yet.
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Ladies. PH5 presentation at NYFW, Sep. 6, 2017.
(Andrew Toth/Getty Images)
Thursday - September 07, 2017 Thu - 09/07/17
rantnrave:// KERING and LVMH’s joint charter on models' working relations and well-being has the potential to be a large step forward for the industry. As with a lot of policy, the charter implements a set of commitments that may be difficult to regulate. Yet the public announcement on behalf of two competing conglomerates has the potential to ripple through the wider industry. Some publications focused on the charter's ban of models size 32 (that’s a US 0). Zeroing in, if you will. My issue with the size ban is that it attaches a unilateral judgement on the relative size of a person as compared to an average—there are always exceptions to a rule. Are there people (and models) that fit a size 0 and are perfectly healthy? Of course there are. The cultural stuff–deeply ingrained values about fashionable beauty and widespread industry practices—are harder to change. Thank you to THE FASHION LAW for publishing this primer on how the charter conforms to current laws in the EU and the US, and how similar past directives have played out. Policy has a role to play. So do daily, individual decisions that make these policies necessary in the first place. The charter is certainly a step in the right direction… The VIRGIL ABLOH x NIKE “OFF CAMPUS” event series took place as NYFW shows and presentations kicked off Wednesday. Videos of the first and second panels up online. Here’s a full schedule of the three-day series... NYFW day 1: NARCISO RODRIGUEZ has a beautifully photographed Spring 2018 lookbook. Young and up-and-coming designers are making themselves the hallmark of NYC's fashion landscape. Check out FASHIONISTA's list of 16 designers showing at NYFW for the first time and STYLECASTER's picks for up-and-coming designers to watch. Knitwear label PH5 looked strong. The label's embrace of the natural and synthesized feels of-the-moment. The designers balanced bold, solid colors with contrasting stripes and an optic wave shape at the garments' outer edges. The curved outlines, all made in knit, were meant to reference the shapes of flowers. TOM FORD has not shown as of publish time, so look for coverage in tomorrow’s newsletter… In brief: YEEZY is canceled... HODINKEE in print... Lifestyle vertical QUARTZY launches in November… 12 spring colors from PANTONE.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
wheel of commerce
The New York Times
Is It New York Fashion Week? Or Is It Rihanna Inc.?
by Vanessa Friedman
Is New York Fashion Week, which officially begins Thursday (Sep 7) but actually begins Wednesday (thank you, Tom Ford), a dead duck? Is it a sinking ship, in the soup, up the creek? Is it -- gasp! -- over?
The Business of Fashion
Tom Ford: What's Next
by Lauren Sherman
With his brand on track to hit nearly $2 billion in retail sales in 2017, the designer is on a quest for global dominance. Next up? New York Fashion Week.
Los Angeles Times
Counterfeit Yeezys and the booming sneaker black market
by David Pierson
Kanye West's signature shoe, known as Yeezys, are among the most coveted sneakers in the world. No wonder there's a thriving global market for replicas.
The Fashion Law
Kering and LVMH Draft Charter on Models' Well-Being
by TFL
According to a joint release, Kering and LVMH have decided to establish a charter for the well-being of models that will be implemented throughout all their brands. Respecting the dignity of every man and woman is at the heart of both group’s values. Having always cared for the well-being of
SURFACE
The Sisters Behind Rodarte and Artist Catherine Opie Talk Politics, Periods, and California
by Sasha Levine
Fashion design is a very isolating field to work in, so everyone probably finds ways of having people in their lives to help balance that. Everyone has their own way of achieving their aloneness to get what they need.
Vogue
London Fashion Week Had Its Own Designer Exodus 15 Years Ago--Here's How the City Turned Things Around
by Sarah Mower
Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, and Hussein Chalayan left London Fashion Week in 2002. Vogue’s Sarah Mower on the great fashion city’s rebirth.
GQ Style
The Weirdest, Most Advanced Sneaker of the Year Is Here
by Samuel Hine
Abasi Rosborough’s split toe basketball sneaker-chelsea boot hybrid is as intriguing as it is strange.
V Magazine
Fashion Critic Vanessa Friedman On The Politics of Fashion
by Christina Cacouris
"V" goes to the "New York Times" to sit with Vanessa Friedman to discuss the importance of analyzing the fashion of political leaders.
Fashionista
How Jennifer Fisher Plans to Become the Paul Newman of Fashion
by Tyler McCall
When Jennifer Fisher launched her eponymous jewelry brand in 2005, she wasn't quite planning a full-fledged business. After undergoing chemo for a rare soft-tissue tumor, the then-stylist was warned against trying to have a baby; instead, she and her husband tried to go through the IVF route with a surrogate.
The New York Times
Raf Simons Knows What America Needs
by Katherine Bernard
The three floors of the newly renovated Calvin Klein store on Madison Avenue are painted yellow, the kind of color saturation that makes a room an environment.
zoetrope
WWD
Zac's Spring Awakening
by Bridget Foley
By shooting glamorous clothes on a glamorous beauty, Zac Posen is bucking Collections tradition. Fashion. You’ve got to love it.
Aperture Foundation NY
Is Fashion Modern?
by Paola Antonelli and Michelle Millar Fisher
MoMA's first fashion exhibition in seventy years is all about icons, accessories, and objects of desire.
Hollywood Reporter
Hollywood's Pop Provocateur Jeremy Scott Talks 20 Years In Fashion Ahead Of Spring Runway Show
by Booth Moore
Ahead of his Sept. 8 show, the L.A. designer talks dressing Madonna, Katy Perry, Miley Cyrus and more.
Fast Company
Your Clothes Might Be Destroying The Rainforest
by Morgan Clendaniel
Rayon might seem like a better alternative to petroleum-based synthetic fabrics, but it’s often made from trees in old-growth forests. A new nonprofit is working hard to make sure fashion companies have better options.
Glossy
Everlane founder Michael Preysman: 'Denim is a really dirty business'
by Jessica Schiffer
Everlane will launch its first denim collection on Thursday at New York Fashion Week. According to the brand, as of Tuesday, the waitlist for the collection's styles was up to 41,226 - Everlane's largest yet.
Racked
How Does Allbirds Get Bigger? Kids Shoes and More Stores
by Chavie Lieber
With a new round of funding, Allbirds sets its sights beyond Silicon Valley.
The Fashion Law
It's Time to Upend Tradition: Fashion Week Does Not Make Sense for Many Brands
New York Fashion Week is rapidly approaching. The Spring/Summer 2018 shows officially kick off on Thursday in Manhattan, where upwards of 100 brands -- some household names, others virtually unknown -- line the official calendar. 
The New Yorker
The Unquestioned Goodness of School Uniforms
by Mark Oppenheimer
Many school leaders believe that uniforms help, although they can’t seem to agree on why.
The Awl
We're All Making A Huge Mistake
by Chris Wallace
What do we need celebrity profiles for now?
The New York Observer
Can Preppy Fashion Still Be All-American if It's Produced Overseas?
by Jonathan Russo
“So the old-money, American gentry look is now brought to you by your political and economic enemy.”
MUSIC OF THE DAY
"Mangekyou"
Yoshiko Sai
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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