Wait, there’s a time to sit back and ride? I’ve always grown up with the theory that you’re only as good as your last collection. | | | | Contrasts. Stage gear at the Mudd Club, NYC, Feb. 13, 1980.
(Allan Tannenbaum/Getty Images) | | | | | | “Wait, there’s a time to sit back and ride? I’ve always grown up with the theory that you’re only as good as your last collection.”
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| | rantnrave:// The VIRGIL ABLOH x NIKE “OFF CAMPUS” panel with DON C, ALEALI MAY, and SPIKE LEE shares personal points of view on the AIR JORDAN while keeping an eye to wider culture. Don C's comment stuck with me: that design is a powerful tool for telling stories. It's a way to take in narratives without them being force-fed to you. And fashion is always telling stories through design... A collective desire for escaping to nature has surfaced recently—to wild peaks and deserts or nature quaintly contained on an artisanal farm. Places where rows upon rows of lavender or wildflowers sit growing under an open sky. The inspiration for CREATURES OF COMFORT S/S 2018 was one such setting: a dreamt-up version of the south of FRANCE, a place where the fruits of one’s labor might actually be fruit. Or herbs. JADE LAI has a sense for both design as storytelling and the tactile sense for making clothes easy. It was a story told through sun-bleached color, silk woven with linen, raffia, and easy slip-on shoes. One thing that stood out to my NYC-dwelling eyes were the wrapped sweatshirts tied like sashes around the waist. Perhaps there's a little urban nature in there after all. With the trend for workwear—and the cultural idea therein—going strong, this was a different kind of work. Tossing lavender into a basket. It may not jump off the screen like a barely concealed bum under a torrent of sequins cascading from a pair of double wide shoulder pads (that’s TOM FORD's f***ing fabulous at work); but the beauty of fashion is that it's made for different people. Different stories, different tribes… When you're a designer best known for a cult of personality, telling a story through design can become an exercise in furthering the personal brand. For spring 2018, Tom Ford took the entirely self-referential route. For the diehards and believers, that's all good, because it's all Ford. INSTAGRAM comments were priceless. This time around, the brazen sex and glamour felt a tad dilute. I’m all for the '90s stuff, don’t get me wrong. But the collection felt a bit like Ford's F***ing Fabulous fragrance. Meant for diffusion. But no matter. It will linger a while before fading into next season. Spritz away… More NYFW: VFILES and BROCK COLLECTION. Much anticipation for CALVIN KLEIN, who has not shown as of publish time... Chief design officer SOMSACK SIKHOUNMOUNG exits J. CREW... GRAYDON CARTER will step down as EIC of VANITY FAIR... NYLON is going all digital. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| After years of gaffes and exclusion, there’s a whole new look on runways and at design houses. | | |
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| A Vestoj Talk at McNally Jackson in New York City, August 2017. | | |
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| François-Henri Pinault of Kering and Antoine Arnault of LVMH speak to BoF about their new charter to protect models. Does it go far enough? | | |
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| Rachel Comey points the way toward a more intimate, less spectacular future. | | |
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| New York Fashion Week begins with a history lesson. And it’s a surprising amount of fun. | | |
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| For Red Bull TV's new 12-part Social Fabric series, LA designer Kyle Ng travelled the world to explore some of the most iconic fashion phenomena. | | |
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| For its latest collection, the New York natives want to encourage free-thinking to challenge the system. | | |
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| When Supreme started making clothes in 1994, its ethos was crystal clear. It was a downtown skate brand for downtown skaters. | | |
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| Nike's iron grip on the sneaker market is visibly slipping. | | |
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| Royal College of Art graduate Matthew Duffy mingled sportswear with pageant chic for his entirely red final collection. | | |
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| We caught up with the brand's womenswear creative lead ahead of the Kith Sport fashion show on Thursday night (Sep 7). | | |
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| “My images are often details from which you can extrapolate something much bigger.” | | |
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| It's hard to believe that eternally youthful Jeremy Scott has been in the business for two decades. The Daily revisited the past with the people's designer to discuss his origin story, his brand's longevity, and his plans for the future. | | |
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| We visited the founder of 032c at his out-of-this-world Berlin office/home to talk everything from cult t-shirts, to Kardashians, to their oddly amazing purple-carpeted living room. | | |
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| As the label’s cofounder Marcus Wainwright strikes out on his own, he continues his career-long quest to challenge and expand our understanding of what constitutes fashion. | | |
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| All while navigating sexism, pay disparities, and Rate My Professor. | | |
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| For many years, designers were pushed -- even expected -- to build out fully-fledged lifestyle brands, ones that not only offered garments for one gender but for both and with accessories, sometimes even home goods, to go along with it. Need proof? Just look around. | | |
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| The season’s men’s wear is wonderfully, plainly normal. | | |
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| New York Fashion Week kicks off Thursday, that semiannual event in which designers from all over the world present their latest collections, in this case for Spring/Summer 2018. | | |
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| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
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