The two of us formed a puzzle and we were made of pieces that fit together very precisely. The money, the business, the licenses, the store openings, all of that would not have been possible without me. But you can’t operate the world’s biggest and most beautiful airplane if you don’t have fuel and a pilot who can fly that plane. And the only pilot who knew how to fly that plane was Yves Saint Laurent. | | | | Pierre Bergé riding with YSL and Chen Xinren, in China to present a retrospective at the China National Museum of Fine Arts, c.1983.
(Pierre Vauthey/Sygma/Getty Images) | | | | | | “The two of us formed a puzzle and we were made of pieces that fit together very precisely. The money, the business, the licenses, the store openings, all of that would not have been possible without me. But you can’t operate the world’s biggest and most beautiful airplane if you don’t have fuel and a pilot who can fly that plane. And the only pilot who knew how to fly that plane was Yves Saint Laurent.”
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| | rantnrave:// Duck out of NEW YORK FASHION WEEK coverage for 48 hours and you return to a lot. A drop in an endless stream. That’s exactly what I did in favor of my friends’ wedding, which took place in middle AMERICA over the weekend. Speaking to fellow New Yorkers in attendance, there was a familiar notion that leaving city limits is vital to keeping perspective on the hype. Driving from CINCINNATI 2 hours down the AA HIGHWAY had me wondering what fashion, particularly the pulsating heart of fashion in NYC, had to do with all of this—the vast expanse of America; the miles and miles of highways, hills, forests, fields, rest stops, rural homes, and way stations that stretch out between the coasts. The answer is a lot. Fashion holds a place in visual culture. It creates shared experience and demonstrates conflicting values. In America clothing can express the country's contradictions—its fractures, anxieties, and celebrations visible in yesterday's sneaker or tomorrow's t-shirt. RAF SIMONS and PIETER MULIER have received and transmitted that artfully at CALVIN KLEIN. They explored the America of horror and dreams, with garments designed as a nod to duality and symbolism, the wiped-clean kitchen counter and the slaughterhouse. There were engorged pom pom fringes and paint rolled over denim like skid-marked roadkill. All with none other than ANDY WARHOL’s "Death and Disaster" series printed over several pieces in the collection (in collab with the late artist’s foundation). It embodied that fear that American culture has to stare down, confront, and transcend every day: its own history. Per reviews, Simons and Mulier are developing the symbolism of Calvin Klein, building it in layers over several collections. Taking the long view. I want one of those quilts. Soundtrack... Speaking of staking out cultural territory at NYFW: if there’s any label poised to bring back the energy and flash of catwalking from the supermodel era while staying firmly rooted in the 21st century, it's CHROMAT. S/S 2018 took on the theme of serenity, with streamlined garments, straps, and chains that wrapped the body. But this wasn't one body. Models of different shapes, sizes, and gender IDs walked the runway, some with a spin and a smile. There’s a vibrancy and urgency to the Chromat message. It's a positive one. The zine accompanying the show was brilliant. Great HIGHSNOBIETY photos... So where are we with NYFW? We’ve put together diverse and conflicting viewpoints in FashionSET: Irreverent or Irrelevant? New York Fashion Week... PARSONS MFA is always a treat… PIERRE BERGÉ, fierce protector of creativity, changed fashion immeasurably with his partner in life and business, YSL. Their legacy lives on through his foundation and philanthropic efforts. RIP. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Yves Saint Laurent’s business and romantic partner, who has died at 86, was bold, fearless, and courteous. | | |
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| He borrowed their logos. They bit his look. Now Gucci and Dapper Dan are going to do some appropriating in Harlem - and around the world. | | |
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| The legendary business partner and lover of the late designer died Friday at 86 after a long illness. | | |
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| We go behind the scenes at the London archive containing over a century of military clothing and designer menswear. | | |
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| The blue-jeans giant is trying to improve conditions in a famously low-paying industry. | | |
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| And other secrets contained in their office walls. | | |
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| The mastermind behind Tommy Hilfiger's football fields, swim-up bars and ocean liner stages shares all. | | |
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| This week, HYPEBEAST Radio paid a visit to Grailed HQ to sit down with Founder Arun Gupta, Marketing Director Jacob Metzger, and Branding Director Lawrence Schlossman to talk about how the site has quickly morphed from a secondhand-marketplace startup to a formidable force in both the fashion and tech worlds. | | |
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| We spoke with the show's director of photography about how she keeps black beautiful on screen. | | |
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| Raf Simons continues to push fashion into a realm of social commentary it rarely touches. | | |
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| With a recent exodus of some of NYC's brightest design stars, the state of fashion week has been hotly debated. Critics say it's losing relevance. Proponents say it's a space for young and up-and-coming designers to shine. | | |
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| When she’s not styling for the likes of i-D, Nylon, Topshop, Polydor, Phiney Pet, and her very own Moodboard, Jeanie Annan Lewin is sharing fashion treasure, cultural trash, and mindful meditations. Follow her lead and take a scroll with us... | | |
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| To call Social Fabric a fashion travel show isn’t doing the show justice — it is an anthropological study of culture and the people responsible for iconic garments and sneakers. | | |
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| Luke Leitch is a feminist to the tips of his fingers. But he wonders whether high fashion is the best medium for the message. | | |
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| After 300,000 limited-edition graphic tees, startup Cotton Bureau is remaking its shirts in order to serve women better. | | |
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| A party for Richardson's collaboration with Pornhub-plus something far more refined at Brandon Maxwell, and Future takes his mask off for Philipp Plein. | | |
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| Ten years after starting his avant-garde label, Jung Wook-jun debuted his womenswear collection, and now he wants to become a global name in fashion. | | |
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| It's time to make way for a new wave of innovative queens who are flooding social media with their approach to drag makeup. We spoke with Berlin's Hungry. | | |
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| Byssus, or sea silk, is one of the most coveted materials in the world -- but after more than 1,000 years in the same matrilineal family tree, this ancient thread may soon unravel. | | |
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