A fashion designer is like a composer. If he doesn’t have musicians to play his score nothing happens. | | | | Model wearing Oscar de la Renta and R.F. Clark for William de Lillo, Vogue 1972.
(Gianni Penati/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “A fashion designer is like a composer. If he doesn’t have musicians to play his score nothing happens.”
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| | rantnrave:// Riding up SOTHEBY’S escalators to the OSCAR DE LA RENTA show, I noticed the scrolls on the walls. Chinese calligraphy from the 17th and 18th centuries stared back at us from the auction house’s upcoming ASIA WEEK sale. It had me thinking that hand-inscribed, written words are some of the most poignant expressions a person can leave behind. For Spring 2018, LAURA KIM and FERNANDO GARCIA brought in De la Renta's own scrawl from handwritten notes he had left, a way of “showing his touch on everything,” as Garcia described it. That personal touch anchored the collection, and after some tough reviews last season, this one felt a bit like a homecoming for two designers who, in their words, grew up at the family-run house. There was an exquisite looking white mink coat hand-embroidered with Oscar's handwriting. Evidence of repetitive gestures of the hand were twofold here, from handwritten notes and the embroidery accomplished by the team at the ODLR in-house sample room and atelier. Oscar's hand was felt in the collection in other ways. Two dip-dyed tulle gowns that spiraled around the body had all the romance and unabashed beauty that's been part of the company for decades. To create in the afterglow of a man so loved and revered as Oscar, to balance the expectations of legacy while pushing forward with new energy and ideas, is no easy task. Some of the alphabet lettering and wool separates may not have hit the same high notes, but some of it brought to mind the trending '90s, so see what you will. Anything can be relevant if it's well done. Happy to see the stunning embroidery used as a play on paint splatters. Sequins and stones faded perfectly down the hem of this gown, resembling paint spray. That playfulness, with the in-house craftsmanship ODLR is capable of, is a smart way to move the company forward. On the way to the show my cab driver JOAN, who is Dominican, told me how beloved Oscar is in his home country. I felt he stepped a little harder on the gas after I told him where we were going. Video of the show (trust me, see it in motion). NICKI MINAJ front row... SNOW XUE GAO had a strong debut solo presentation. One to watch... ROBBIE MYERS ran a damn good magazine and is leaving ELLE after 17 years. Much respect to the longtime editor... LESLIE JONES has the most fun at CHRISTIAN SIRIANO. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| What kind of difference can a great suit make? According to the folks at Career Gear, a nonprofit that helps men in need suit up for job interviews, a mighty big one. | | |
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| Two designers known for their edge, Alexander Wang and Eckhaus Latta showed in Brooklyn on Saturday. | | |
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| Grailed is pleased to present an interview with the Fear of God designer. Conducted in Los Angeles at the brand's studio and headquarters, our conversation touches on a variety of topics, from keeping one's beliefs in an often faithless industry to the legacy Jerry hopes to leave. | | |
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| Chromat’s show at New York Fashion Week stayed true to its original DNA by showcasing underrepresented identities on the runway in a way that wasn’t tokenizing, but rather the “real deal.” | | |
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| The pop star-designer made it all look so easy. Not so much Alexander Wang. | | |
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| The Fenty collection roared back into New York, Diane Von Furstenberg embraced the fringe, and Opening Ceremony took a dance break. | | |
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| Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia talk about how it feels to be both new fashion sensations and in charge of an iconic fashion house. | | |
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| The runways are becoming more diverse, but are hair and makeup keeping up? | | |
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| When Amazon announced the launch of its largest trend-driven fashion label, Find, on Monday, it came with a significant caveat: It will only be available in Europe. What's more, the company is taking a very different promotional approach to Find than it has with its U.S.-based labels like Lark & Ro. | | |
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| For his sophomore collection at Calvin Klein, Raf Simons turned clichéd references into something entirely new -- a manoeuvre, Alexander Fury argues, that no other designer could pull off. | | |
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| Meet the nine bright talents to have emerged from Parsons MFA Fashion. | | |
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| Taking tender photographs and publishing his own magazine NiiJournal, Campbell Addy id looking to redefine notions of POC in front and behind the camera. | | |
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| How Eckhaus Latta, Alex Wang, and Opening Ceremony use friends, far-flung Brooklyn locations, or good dance moves to connect with young people. | | |
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| Limited-edition sports shoes such as Adidas’ Yeezys are snapped up by resellers, driving collectors unable to afford their prices to the internet. An online community links them to sellers of high-quality Chinese fakes. | | |
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| While the Federal Trade Commission (“FTC”) did not necessarily appear to be doing too much by way of tangible action to follow up on the 90 letters it sent out this spring to remind celebrities, influencers and brands that they must clearly and conspicuously disclose their relationships when promoting or endorsing products through social media. | | |
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| Are sneaker collaborations the new mixtape? | | |
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| Nordstrom is opening a store where shoppers will be able to enjoy manicures, beer and on-site tailoring. Something it won’t have: racks of clothes. | | |
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| Chief marketing officer Jonathan Bottomley shares the brand’s strategy for amplifying its ultra-exclusive runway show at the designer’s upstate car garage. Two words: Instagram Stories. | | |
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| Manolo Blahnik has a new documentary out Friday and his traveling museum exhibition bows in Madrid in November. | | |
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| Charney’s line in hipster fashion made him a multi-million dollar sensation until serial accusations of sexual harassment led to his downfall. Has the man who now sleeps on a mattress in his new factory changed his ways? | | |
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