Fashion design is a very isolating field to work in, so everyone probably finds ways of having people in their lives to help balance that. Everyone has their own way of achieving their aloneness to get what they need.
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Model/mannequin with cash registers from the National Cash register company, Glamour 1942.
(John Rawlings/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Thursday - September 14, 2017 Thu - 09/14/17
rantnrave:// With VOGUE celebrating 125 years and RALPH LAUREN celebrating 50, there are questions floating around about how to deal with legacy for the storied old titles and labels of fashion. For Fall 2017, Ralph Lauren drove show attendees two hours (with traffic) north of NYC to the Lauren compound to take in the show at Ralph's garage, dining on Ralph's burgers, amid Ralph's world class car collection. That's a flex. The show was streamed live and shoppable. Some nice interactive tools on the video to save each look as the model walked down the runway. It's a show I was ready to write off as graceless marketing, but you know what? I liked the collection. The full looks in glen plaid and Prince of Wales check were smart, stately variations on a theme. Loved the high-gloss and shimmering textiles used to reference the sleek lines of machines. The precision tailoring was refreshing to see after a week of intentionally outsized proportions. It brought to mind the brand's earlier days. The RL of the "Old Ralph Lauren Adverts" (that's a TUMBLR) days. Sure, this isn't the first time Lauren has taken to his fine auto collection for inspiration, and some of the ballgowns and racing jackets lacked a bit of imagination, but overall I felt something shifted (no pun intended) with this collection. It brought to mind the better days of Ralph. I've always felt the issues with RL have been less the vision and more the execution—how does one keep product and imagery fresh from a brand so utterly familiar? The Fall 2017 show literally drew show attendees into Ralph's world—meticulously crafted, life in the movies made real. While a CEO blowout and reports on RL business have dominated the company's story for the last few years, considering Ralph Lauren in the broader context of its 50-year history is far more interesting. It's a story of ambition. Striving. The seductive power of the American dream. Today, the story has all the leanings of late empire, cracking at the edges—or just wait—maybe ready to rise again. There's the connection to hip-hop. The absolute and sometimes fatal devotion to the POLO brand. And there's this staring investors in the face every day. Will the company revive itself? FashionSET: Ralph Lauren: American Empire. Will definitely be checking out this exhibition of vintage POLO... Backstage images at VAQUERA... BODEGA apologizes to bodegas... AMAZON opens its first fashion imaging studio in INDIA.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
mass
The New York Times
Is Bally More Interesting Than Gucci? Depends Who’s Tweeting
by Jon Caramanica
In its new space on Madison Avenue, Bally is free of attitude but not confidence.
WWD
Anna Wintour on Vogue at 125 — and Defining Print in the Digital Age
by Alexandra Steigrad
In a rare interview, Vogue’s famed editor in chief discusses the title’s September issue, the Internet - and influence.
The New York Times
How Does a Ballgown Compete with a $40 Million Bugatti?
by Vanessa Friedman
The most extravagant show of fashion week was at the designer’s Bedford Hills, N.Y., garage but, overall, fresh impulses have been parked in New York.
Man Repeller
I’ve Been a Runway Pit Photographer for 30 Years
by Dan Lecca
Noted runway pit photographer Dan Lecca tells us what fashion week is like from behind the lens.
Dazed Digital
The crew that raided NYC stores for Polo Ralph Lauren
by Calum Gordon
Watch ‘Bury Me With The Lo On’, a film about the guys that stole hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of Polo and became an influential subculture.
The Cut
Ralph Lauren's Bondian Reboot Revives His Franchise
by Cathy Horyn
Amid sports cars and sexy female villains, the designer’s best collection in some time.
The Business of Fashion
Inside Yoho! China's Streetwear Empire
by Gemma A. Williams
Getting to grips with Yoho!, one of China’s most influential streetwear platforms for the country’s powerful Post-'90s generation.
W Magazine
Lorod, New York's Best Up-and-Coming Label, is Too Cool to Be Found at Fashion Week
by Stephanie Eckardt
Lorod, which is run by two 24-year-olds, shows pre-collections only, not that that's bothered fans like the Haim sisters.
AnOther
Victoria Beckham S/S18 and the Power of Thinking Pink
by Alexander Fury
“Delicacy can be strong,” declared Victoria Beckham this NYFW, staying true to a long and illustrious history of dressing women in powerful pastels.
The Fashion Law
Alibaba's TMall Becomes "Official Partner" of New York Fashion Week: The Shows
by TFL
The Alibaba-owned platform announced that it is getting in on the New York Fashion Week action by way of IMG's "The Shows."
class
Racked
eBay Is Teaming Up With Spring, the Fashion Startup
by Chavie Lieber
Thanks to the boutique, Gucci, Prada, and Saint Laurent will live on eBay.
Vogue
Chromat Casting Director Gilleon Smith on Chance Meetings, Hard Work, and Diversity
by Laird Borrelli-Persson
Meet the casting director who, with Chromat’s Becca McCharen-Tran, is redefining beauty on the runway.
Leafly
Smoke and Mirrors: Korean Smokewear Brand Sundae School Challenges Stereotypes
by Noël Duan
Shaped by Korean cultural influences and a Christian upbringing, the designers behind Sundae School embrace cannabis culture as a way to combat conformity.
Fashionista
How a Major 'Broad City' Post-Election Rewrite Affected the Costumes in Season 4
by Nicola Fumo
Abbi Jacobson and Ilana Glazer's critically-acclaimed web series-turned-Comedy Central smash returns on September 13th.
JSTOR Daily
Why India Once Led The Fashion Industry
by Cynthia Green
India led the fashion world in the 16th and 17th centuries through cotton fabric, design motifs, and its customer-centric market system.
The Telegraph
Weaving magic: inside Lovat, one of the last bastions of the British textile business
by Stephen Doig
Talk of Scottish craftsmanship traditionally evokes romantic imagery of crofters’ cottages, heather-dappled glens and handsome Fair Isle knits being formed over the rhythmic cluck-cluck-cluck of knitting needles.
Garage Magazine
Who's Going to Wear That? Who Cares?
by Rachel Tashjian
Why Shayne Oliver is making bizarro it-bags for Helmut Lang and Vaquera's bathrobe ball gown looks so fun.
Glossy
'No more panic': Fashion week gets over its midlife crisis
by Hilary Milnes
The past few seasons of New York Fashion Week were full of hand-wringing and existential crises, as designers and observers panicked over how see-now-buy-now and social media were changing the fashion show as we knew it. This season, the dust appears to have settled. "People are adjusting. There's no more panic.
FASHION magazine
We Asked Emily Weiss Everything We've Ever Wanted to Know About Glossier
by Souzan Michael
"I give [my team] one mandate and that’s to be inspired."
Jing Daily
Can Zhang Zetian Fix JD.Com's Luxury Image Problem?
by Yiling Pan
While Zhang Zetian, wife of JD.com founder Liu Qiangdong, has been making seeming efforts to beef up JD's luxury image, how much sway does she really have?
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"All Night Long"
The Mary Jane Girls
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@JasonHirschhorn


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