There is something poignant about a designer name on a label, a personal risk obscured and forgotten by the time it is emblazoned around the elastic band of underwear... After the creator is in business for a while, the label takes on a life of its own, not unlike Frankenstein's monster. That battle with the label, to live up to it, to go beyond it, is a designer's biggest drama. | | | | Models embark. Marc Jacobs S/S 2018, Park Avenue Armory, Sept. 13, 2017.
(Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images) | | | | | | “There is something poignant about a designer name on a label, a personal risk obscured and forgotten by the time it is emblazoned around the elastic band of underwear... After the creator is in business for a while, the label takes on a life of its own, not unlike Frankenstein's monster. That battle with the label, to live up to it, to go beyond it, is a designer's biggest drama.”
|
| |
| | rantnrave:// NYFW ended, but fashion month has only just begun. MARC JACOBS staged the final show on the official NYC calendar. He's a bit of a mythic figure these days, a designer who's secured his place in the annals of fashion. And with that comes a different purview—one that bears the weight of many past collections and an unknown future. For spring 2018, Jacobs showed a silent parade of larger-than-life proportions. It was layer upon layer of searing oranges, fuchsia, yellow, and turquoise combined with drab retro shades and blown-up patterns of daisies, dots, plaids, and psychedelic swirls. Signature shapes, recognizable in the collection's collars, cuffs, buttons, and brooches, looked almost overgrown. It felt like a retreat into some private universe—a mirror to past work at precisely the time when some NYC-based designers are looking to connect with the world around them. In his review, TIM BLANKS (paywall, open to BOF pro subscribers) writes that Jacobs' turn away from reality comes at a time when the industry is keenly watching for clues about the future of the label. Jacobs has been known for his connection to art and culture, yet this collection felt like it was calling out from a snow globe. Still, I'm rooting for the label... There's a fine line between chasing culture and radiating it. The story of NYFW has been young designers just tryna come up in this world and big American labels facing reinvention. CALVIN KLEIN, COACH, and RALPH LAUREN. I missed seeing GYPSY SPORT on the calendar. And what's in store for the CFDA?... If you missed FASHION BROS, this may be the closest thing to FB 2.0. FAILING UPWARDS is now a BARSTOOL SPORTS property and a fashion podcast... A SUPREME grows in BROOKLYN... VISVIM opens its first store in NYC... MAN REPELLER launches a shopping INSTAGRAM, @mrinmycart... Enjoy the weekend, and to our industry readers who've made the flight across the ATLANTIC for LONDON FASHION WEEK, godspeed. Looking forward to LFW. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
|
|
| Angling to get your street style picture taken is an important piece of the blogger-industrial complex. Just as Zanita Whittington. | | |
|
| For the last year, speculation around Marc Jacobs and his brand has been at a fever pitch. The onetime crown prince of New York Fashion Week, creator of the most anticipated, most controversial show of each season, the one guaranteed to electrify the city and shore up its creative cred, beloved child of downtown, channeler of the moment, seemed to be teetering on a precipice. | | |
|
| With some of New York’s most beloved designers now showing in Paris, young talents like Eckhaus Latta and Vaquera seemed to gain. | | |
|
| With London fashion week starting on Friday (Sep 15), meet the 10 designers about to have a lot of influence on your future wardrobe. | | |
|
| Tribute to Mister Pierre Bergé…back to the archives of Sofia Tchkonia and her interview with Pierre Berge. | | |
|
| Denying retirement rumors, New York Fashion Week’s guiding light produced a moving homage to fashion relics. | | |
|
| In his twenties, Shayne Oliver's Hood by Air was the darling of New York's young designer scene. So when the now-30-year-old designer put HBA on hiatus, everyone wondered: What's next? Before long, Oliver was tapped by Isabella Burley, Helmut Lang's new editor in residence, to reinvent the brand for spring 2018. | | |
|
| Highlights include Marc Jacobs's abstract florals and turbans from no particular place. It was otherworldly meets real world. | | |
|
| With New York Fashion Week officially behind us, the circus is hopping across the pond for fashion month's European leg, which kicks off in London on Friday. From there, it advances to Milan for seven days of Italian moda before heading the 500-odd miles north to Paris for the final stretch. | | |
|
| The all-American designer presented a collection which demonstrated his passion for automobiles in more ways than one, Alexander Fury reports. | | |
|
| After 16 years as editor in chief of "Glamour, "Cindi Leive is definitely not leaving her job to spend more time with her family. | | |
|
| Discussing New York’s Spring 2018 collections, Vogue’s Sally Singer challenges the city’s designers to stop looking to the past. | | |
|
| As sweeping changes occur, we need to be setting the bar higher, not cutting people off. | | |
|
| The brand’s retail drama has largely cooled, as has its explosive sales growth. | | |
|
| Though he’s based in Spain, the Delpozo designer has become the face of New York’s most intricate brand. | | |
|
| The NBA star also discusses John Cena as style icon, his love for Virgil Abloh, and his new partnership with eBay. | | |
|
| With a little help from designer Damir Doma. | | |
|
| "I am rarely put off by something which I can not grasp straight away." | | |
|
| The 44,000 sq. ft. studio, called BLING, in Gurugram includes 16 photography bays, and is Amazon’s third such facility in the world. | | |
|
| Today, economists tend to see anything that boosts consumption and production as a good thing. But that was decidedly not the case in earlier centuries. | | |
|
| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
|
|
