If I have to lend my name to a brand that’s not very cool, that means I have to work really hard to make my content really interesting. A bit of their uncoolness will rub off on me, so I’ll charge them more. | | | | Chalayan during London Fashion Week, Sept. 17, 2017.
(Tristan Fewings/BFC/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “If I have to lend my name to a brand that’s not very cool, that means I have to work really hard to make my content really interesting. A bit of their uncoolness will rub off on me, so I’ll charge them more.”
| - | Zanita Whittington, 2017 |
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| | rantnrave:// LONDON FASHION WEEK began Sept. 15., and after BURBERRY Fall 2017, I wonder if this isn't the season of Big Brands. Burberry may have turned a corner by cheekily tapping instincts of the brand once looked at as tacky or undesirable. In channeling the outsider, the willful ignorance of boundaries in class and taste, Burberry felt more connected to the current cultural mood. And the logo check is back... MARGARET HOWELL makes fantastic clothes... For GARETH PUGH spring 2018, familiar shapes and silhouettes from the label hardened and magnified, as if forged in some alternate dimension's infernal blaze. Obstinate and less consumable—from Pugh, I'll take it. Far better to rocket off into another realm than pander to industry confusion. It cut through the noise... Loved BLOOMBERG's story on the "Lonely Future of Buying Stuff." Smart for its combination of arresting visuals, surprise, and information about our present world of shipping containers, warehouse operations, and delivery. It alternates between a speculative future and the present, where the development of automation may spell the future for shipping and shopping... Top editors left their posts at ELLE, GLAMOUR, TIME, and VANITY FAIR, and people are stretching for a common theme. Conventional wisdom about online and transmedia publishing tends to overshadow specific decision-making at legacy media companies. Social media following is another easy assumption to make and won't save them. There are some fundamental issues with how legacy publications have handled the rise of the internet. Some magazine websites still look like print's dumping grounds. Or induce browser-breaking clunk when trying to scroll through a page. Turning publications into a cement slurry of similar #content is not the future. Publications need voice, talent, and differentiation. New revenue models. This report from the AMERICAN PRESS INSTITUTE, based on survey data, makes some good points about lingering separations between business and editorial... AMAZON FASHION tests one-hour delivery in London with NICOPANDA... BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL introduces a climate change initiative... Flip phones. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | Bloomberg |
| It’s 2036. We’ve automated ourselves out of shopping and shipping. Here’s how it happened. | | |
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 | The New York Review of Books |
| What kind of artist is Rei Kawakubo? Let's call her a combinatory formalist. She is unusually adept at combining the many disparate influences that course through her designs into unlikely, arresting, contrapuntal compositions. | | |
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 | Dazed Digital |
| With the debut of a new film, the designer and photographer discuss their agenda-setting collaborations - and the importance of experimentation | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| A terror attack on the city subway was only the latest evidence of an uncertain world. But London’s designers just get on with it. | | |
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 | Wallpaper* Magazine |
| For her 2008 Wallpaper* guest editorship, Rei Kawakubo curates art and imagery that summons up the spirit of legendary label Comme des Garçons. | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| The rising New York brand has collaborated with Hulu, created a dress from a human-size Tiffany & Co. bag, and made a fan out of Anna Wintour. | | |
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 | Vestoj |
| A study of prison uniforms and the dress of subservience. | | |
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 | Vogue |
| This Swedish photographer takes things as they come. | | |
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| i-D Magazine |
| Ahead of the Italian label's return to London's fashion scene tomorrow with its new Soho store, Terry Jones talks to IDEA Books co-founder David Owen about Fiorucci's heritage and symbiotic relationship with i-D. | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| Dazed & Confused may have been started by students, but 25 years later, it has become a training ground for multiple generations of fashion creatives. | | |
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 | The Guardian |
| The original Vetements muse, Paul Hameline is a blank canvas who can look like Marc Almond one minute and Charlotte Rampling the next. Here he talks blueberries, boredom and Balenciaga. | | |
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 | 1 Granary |
| The founder of Brussels-based production company Villa Eugénie keeps his eyes on the future. | | |
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 | Vanity Fair |
| Cristina Ehrlich-who is dressing eight women at the Emmys Sunday night-breaks down what goes into preparing for the big night. | | |
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 | Quartz |
| Dark skin isn't just one shade, any more than light skin is. Fenty Beauty responded with one of the most diverse color ranges in makeup. | | |
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 | Fortune Magazine |
| A custom-fit suit at a price better than a department store’s? That’s the promise of a new breed of suitmakers. | | |
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 | Racked |
| There's a lot of K-beauty in the US now, including at mainstream retailers, but no one brand has really broken free and made a name for itself outside of the pack. Innisfree could be the brand that finally does it. | | |
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 | Die, Workwear! |
| "So, I’ve been working on a two-part series for Put This On (for those who don’t know, most of my writing is there). The posts were inspired by an online Vogue article I read earlier this year. Apparently, fashion editors are just like the rest of us. Despite having closets overflowing with options, they mostly rely on the same things for their day-to-day routines." | | |
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 | Highsnobiety |
| On this episode of Conversations, Benjamin Gott and Zac Boswell of th-oughts and multiple other projects (THE BRILLIANCE! and Boxed Water among others) talk about well...doing things on the Internet. | | |
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 | WWD |
| Brands from Benefit to Givenchy are tapping Chinese KOLs and influencers to sell product. | | |
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 | Herald Scotland |
| When London Fashion Week cranks into gear this weekend Caroline Rush will be at the heart of the action. The Glasgow-born chief executive of the British Fashion Council is set to have a front row seat as the gaze of millions of eyes around the world fall upon the catwalks. | | |
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