Fashion is born by small facts, trends, or even politics, never by trying to make little pleats and furbelows, by trinkets, by clothes easy to copy, or by the shortening or lengthening of a skirt. | | | | The Rainbow Room. Twiggy at Biba's Kensington store, 1971.
(Justin de Villeneuve/Hulton Archive/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “Fashion is born by small facts, trends, or even politics, never by trying to make little pleats and furbelows, by trinkets, by clothes easy to copy, or by the shortening or lengthening of a skirt.”
| - | Elsa Schiaparelli, "Shocking Life," 1954 |
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| | rantnrave:// Some standout shows from LONDON FASHION WEEK have been about women—their inner lives, their domestic spaces, their regal appearances, even their imagined social lives—lives that might make impossible leaps through centuries or social milieus. ERDEM brought in research from QUEEN ELIZABETH's wardrobe at WINDSOR CASTLE, and then imagined those clothes mixed with jazz performances at the COTTON CLUB in HARLEM of the 1950s. That blending of universes, of social circles once worlds apart, has been a persistent theme for fashion over the past few years. When done well, it taps the moment of internet telepresence and instant imagery. CHRISTOPHER KANE took inspiration from private, domestic spaces—as a realm of surfaces scrubbed clean and a psychological state that invites subversion. Prim and proper mixed with kink. The collection looked to scouring pads, loop mops, laundry bags, turning them into knits and lace. With Kane, technical feats and craft are central to the collections' look, so I'm looking forward to seeing video. Some great details are posted on the brand's website. Enjoyed EMILIA WICKSTEAD's latest, too... Shaky department store business has designers looking to expand their own retail channels. I can remember a time when department stores differentiated themselves. Now it's all soup. Owing to their size and apparent desire to serve everyone, the overlap in inventory and designers makes them feel like one giant database. This is not the moment for enterprise solutions, conventional design, or programmatic social media. So projects like NEIMAN MARCUS's LUXE LAB are smart. Could be stronger if the online version included a design element. This follows NORDSTROM's (also smart) move in launching SPACE by OLIVIA KIM. And I've been continually impressed watching new arrivals stream in to 24SÈVRES. Department stores are making moves. Is it enough? Add to the list of designers who have recently opened brick-and-mortar locations: HUISHAN ZHANG is opening in LONDON... Almost missed WHOOPI GOLDBERG's NYFW reviews for INTERVIEW. Great to read personal, immediate reactions to the clothes. No baggage here, just a chance to enjoy. Here's Goldberg on VAQUERA... Bidding for BALLY... You've been shop-dropped... SUPREME gets the (no) logo treatment. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | The New Yorker |
| The designer combines 3-D printing and hand stitching to reimagine the possibilities of the human body. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| "Getting people to think a bit differently about beauty is very important to me." | | |
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 | WWD |
| Hearst’s disruptor addresses criticism about how he built the digital division. | | |
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 | T Magazine |
| Designers at top houses often find great inspiration in the archives. But is the history stifling? | | |
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 | Paper |
| The designer talks changes in the global fashion business and our mutual obsession with singer Alison Moyet. | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| Without external investment, Erdem Moralioglu has steadily built a label with a turnover of $13 million and an aesthetic loved by some of the world’s most elegant women. Now, a collaboration with H&M could get his name in front of a whole legion of new fans. | | |
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 | Fast Company |
| WME-IMG’s OTT fashion network Made to Measure has experienced tremendous growth in just two years. Now the platform is digging into original content. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| Other secrets from inside her all-female studio include how she creates a collection and what her father taught her. | | |
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 | Parisian Gentleman |
| "I got into menswear through Northern Italian ready-to-wear. Suits and jackets from Zegna and Canali were my first experience of well-cut, fully-canvassed tailoring, and quality fabrics. It might seem surprising that despite living in Britain I began with Milanese brands, but I suspect my experience is not unusual." | | |
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 | GQ Style |
| Philosopher-designer Brunello Cucinelli runs his company in Umbria, Italy with radical kindness and creates his sublime clothes in an environment of love, dignity-and really good cheese. | | |
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 | InStyle.com |
| Brunello Cucinelli has created a new model for luxury consumption, but everything comes at a price. | | |
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 | Harper's Bazaar UK |
| Ahead of his new documentary, the legendary designer opens up about style, saying no to Rihanna and the shoes no woman should ever wear. | | |
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 | Racked |
| Clothes you're dying to wear. | | |
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 | Harvard Journal of Sports and Entertainment Law |
| Englishman Charles Frederick Worth is credited as the father of the modern fashion industry in the nineteenth century. Through his brand -- House of Worth -- he was the first designer to create a catalogue of designs to be worn by models in his store from which his clients could choose. | | |
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 | SSENSE |
| Patternmaker Nicolas Caito invites Katherine Bernard to his New York atelier to talk ‘truing.’ | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| Matty Bovan, Asai, and Supriya Lele each conjured tough, powerful woman to match the challenges of both global politics and contemporary culture. | | |
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 | Eartha |
| "The focus of this article is on sustainable clothing, and specifically on cotton in India and some of the community-driven initiatives to sustain the indigenous cotton movement." | | |
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 | Glossy |
| Luxury brands, it seems, are looking to deepen their connections with American consumers. Earlier this week, Hopscotch Luxe -- an arm of the French communications agency Hopscotch Groupe, which caters to luxury clients -- opened its first office in New York City. | | |
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 | The Telegraph |
| Every line of work comes with its own, industry-specific lingo, and the world of modeling is no different. | | |
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 | Fashion Unfiltered |
| The good, the bad, the evolution. | | |
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 | YouTube |
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