The old way of thinking that goes, ‘the new season is blue’ or ‘the new ballerina look’, I am not interested in that. And when the casting people say to me about a model, ‘she is beautiful, she is a new face, she has beautiful legs’ – I don’t care about that at all. I care about the way the girl is romantic, the way she sees the world.
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Gucci S/S 2018 at Milan Fashion Week, Sept. 20, 2017.
(Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images)
Thursday - September 21, 2017 Thu - 09/21/17
rantnrave:// MILAN FASHION WEEK is on. Show of the day goes to GUCCI S/S 2018. The universe of ALESSANDRO MICHELE is expanding, pushing past cultural boundaries and references to any single moment in time. The collection had an intergalactic feel to it, like what an alien civilization might pick out to wear after soaking up Earth's visual culture. It was a kaleidoscope of logos, pop culture, and history. BUGS BUNNY, MARLBORO, and disco. Centuries of visual culture collapsing in on itself. In our world of niche tastes on a mass scale (I think IAN ROGERS said that first), there's something for everyone. Loved the layers of glittering transparency. Pulsating strobe lights over the runway lent frozen, fragmented glimpses of the collection. Not unlike fashion on the internet. And guess who sat front row? None other than DANIEL DAY, aka DAPPER DAN. Decades after he shuttered his store on 125th St in NYC, DAP is reopening his business in partnership with Gucci. Like he said, "I didn't do knock-offs. I did knock-ups!" FashionSET: CLOSE-UP: Dapper Dan, Harlem to the World. And if you own vintage Dapper Dan, the company is looking to get in touch... Your BOF pro subscription is worth it just for this review by TIM BLANKS... TANK MAGAZINE's piece on high heels is online publishing done right... FASHIONISTA's survey looks at online shopping habits... Baby LOUBOUTINS.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
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REDEF
REDEF FashionSET: CLOSE-UP: Dapper Dan, Harlem to the World
Daniel Day, known as Dapper Dan, opened his boutique in Harlem in 1982. Merging style from the streets with luxury logos, Day shuttered his business in the '90s after being sued by luxury companies. Now, with a reopened atelier and a partnership with Gucci, he's bringing Harlem to the world. In his own words, "I didn't do knock-offs, I did knock-ups!"
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 There’s no desk-to-dinner wearability here, only full-throttle glitz and glamour. 
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Queen Elizabeth I wanted none of it.
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After six decades of independent retailing, Joan Burstein -- the legendary Mrs B -- is recognised throughout the industry as a retailer, fashion buyer and talent-spotter supreme, making her a fitting winner of the Drapers Independents Awards Lifetime Achievement accolade.
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“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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