What was so jarring about much of [Versace's] work in the 1980's was that he used references that at the time were unacceptable in designer fashion: leather, denim, brash prints, bondage, metal mesh and even sexiness that, for its time, was considered 'happy hooker' lewd. Time made those references part of the standard fashion vocabulary. | | | | Photographers at DKNY, Oct. 29, 1994.
(Mark Peterson/Corbis Historical/Getty Images) | | | | | | “What was so jarring about much of [Versace's] work in the 1980's was that he used references that at the time were unacceptable in designer fashion: leather, denim, brash prints, bondage, metal mesh and even sexiness that, for its time, was considered 'happy hooker' lewd. Time made those references part of the standard fashion vocabulary.”
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| | rantnrave:// There's something to be said for companies that play the long game. In fashion media, that may prove a sound strategy for labels looking to connect with their customer past one season, one snapshot, one screen. That may be the case at JIL SANDER, where LUCIE and LUKE MEIER debuted their first runway collection for the house in MILAN. Per this interview, the two are looking toward a soulful, uncompromising approach, one that could be a slow build toward a new era at the house. During its best days, Jil Sander stood for unwavering clarity—in cut, in materials, in aesthetic vision. If the Meiers are able to instill that sense of clarity with technical innovation and 21st-century versatility, they could nail it. The challenge is how to convey that through immediacy and storytelling. Returning to uncompromising quality would be a sound and lasting achievement for fashion today. That is the best way to say, "it's just clothes." Yeah, the best damn X, Y, or Z you've ever worn. Last looks from Milan: VERSACE's tribute to GIANNI, GIORGIO ARMANI, and two labels that look to remain evergreen: HERNO and LORO PIANA... Street style photographers campaigned for #NoFreePhotos over the weekend. So will we have DRM for street style soon? Micropayments? Or just hideous watermarks stamped over the 'fit? Always appreciate BRYANBOY for keeping it real and being part of the conversation... There should be more secret, discoverable stuff in e-commerce. PATAGONIA's online launch of the company's WORN WEAR program is smart. Taking repaired garments and recirculating them is in line with the company's stated mission to reduce its environmental impact. It capitalizes on the vogue for re-commerce, limited editions, and archive sales, where customers seek out one-off pieces and special items not found in the global database of retail. I doubt the margins are bad. Product listings on the site include the originating season and year for each garment, catering to info-savvy shoppers, enthusiast vintage customers and collectors alike. And this phrase from the site stands out: "better than new." Will rare pieces turn up on the site? Like hidden codes... Outside the microcosm that is fashion month, some notable techwear collections are out: ALK PHENIX and ACRONYM... Great (paywall) story on ALEXANDRE ARNAULT, who INSTA-revealed a RIMOWA project... Safe travels to our readers on the move to PARIS FASHION WEEK. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| A few months ago, while dining at Veggie Grill (one of the new breed of Chipotle-class fast-casual restaurants), a phrase popped unbidden into my head: premium mediocre. The food, I opined to my wife, was premium mediocre. She instantly got what I meant, though she didn't quite agree that Veggie Grill qualified. | | |
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| It is mid-morning in New York, and I meet Virgil Abloh on the second floor of the 11 Howard hotel, in a nightclub called The Blonde. As we speak in the empty lounge, his iPhone lights up constantly. Occasionally, he cannot help but pause and answer a text. | | |
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| "Over the years I've seen so many homages to Gianni Versace and direct reference to Gianni Versace," she said. "But I didn't have the courage to do it myself. I was always afraid to touch the work of Gianni. I thought I would be criticized: 'She isn't Gianni.' | | |
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| Your bank isn't trying to give you a toaster anymore, so why do you get free eye cream? | | |
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| On the eve of their Jil Sander debut, Vogue speaks with creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier about where they’re taking the heritage label. | | |
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| We must destroy all passéist clothes, and everything about them which is tight-fitting, colourless, funereal, decadent, boring and unhygienic', argues Giacomo Balla in his 1913 'Futurist Manifesto of Men's Clothing'. This exuberant, half-serious praise of asymmetric shapes and vibrant colours is a call for creativity and but also for planned obsolescence. | | |
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| “The whole problem is how to be strong but not lose your dream, your sexiness, your glamour,” Miuccia Prada tells Susannah Frankel after her S/S18 show. | | |
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| An online campaign hopes to raise awareness about the indiscriminate use of images by influencers and fashion brands. | | |
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| #NoFreePhotos has been popping up in the caption of some of the fashion industry’s most esteemed street style photographers as of late. The hashtag is in direct response to what a group of partially anonymous photographers claim is an increasingly regular practice of fashion's most in-demand and heavily-followed influencers. | | |
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| Want to start a streetwear brand? Start on Reddit. | | |
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| The community speaks out on what exactly is going on. | | |
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| Thirty years into her career, the supermodel speaks exclusively to BoF's Tim Blanks about her journey from shy teen to industry icon as she prepares to release a new retrospective book, footwear collaboration and beauty line. | | |
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| We follow the designer from the back room of a St Petersburg club to an exhibition space Old Sessions House, as he opens up about his collaboration with the very British brand. | | |
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| Why Gucci invited one of the fashion world’s toughest critics, the Instagram account @diet_prada, behind the scenes of their Spring Summer 2018 show. | | |
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| Albert Kriemler is the proud owner of an impressive personal art portfolio, including pieces by the likes of Lawrence Weiner, Ian Hamilton Finlay and Paul Thek, but it’s a collection he started almost by accident. | | |
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| The long gap is part of the perfume-making process. But it's also a business strategy. | | |
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| Sarah Mower, Mark Holgate, Chioma Nnadi, Maya Singer, and Luke Leitch discuss the tides of London Fashion Week Spring 2018. | | |
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| A conversation with the meme-maker whose process follows Lil B’s Based Freestyles. | | |
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| On a trek through Southeast Asia, Walk Sew Good campaigners meet designers and producers offering sustainable alternatives to fast fashion’s wasteful consumption, while revitalising local communities and preserving techniques | | |
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| Join me, won't you, in a post that celebrates the prescient fashion of 'Napoleon Dynamite.' | | |
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