The beginning and end for me is the clothes. Yes, I want to make a fashion show for the images, but much more than that, I want to make a show for the people in the room so they feel something, a frisson that goes out into the world through them.
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Niki de Saint-Phalle with her Nanas sculptures, silk-screened inflatable vinyl, Vogue 1968.
(Bert Stern/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Thursday - September 28, 2017 Thu - 09/28/17
rantnrave:// It was an omen in 2012 when JEFF BEZOS proclaimed that AMAZON was serious about investing in its fashion and apparel business. Since then, Amazon Fashion has been a thorn in every luxury MBA candidate's SWOT analysis—if said candidate took the potential harbored by Amazon seriously enough. There's still a high level of skepticism directed toward the company's claim to fashion legitimacy. Yet out of a long-term strategy, details emerge. Amazon is set to become the largest apparel retailer in 2017. It recently opened its first fashion photo studio in INDIA. A sleeping giant? Since 2012, the company has been inching its way toward offering capital-F fashion. But it's not there—yet. The launch of FIND in EUROPE has been its most notable launch to date. And there's PRIME WARDROBE, ECHO LOOK, and a slew of private labels maneuvering in the apparel space. Will the company capture not just commerce—but creativity—in fashion? FashionSET: Amazon Fashion... PARIS FASHION WEEK continues. Both ROBIN GIVHAN and VANESSA FRIEDMAN called out a duty-free aesthetic in their reviews of DIOR and LANVIN. That's an evocative description (read: not literal), but are labels forgetting themselves because they desperately need business like duty-free? I'm not going to invoke the M(illennials) word here. Show of the day goes to DRIES VAN NOTEN. It's the breath of fresh air fashion needs. A calm, confident collection. Van Noten chose a wash of color that evokes warmth and ease: amber, russet, marigold, and lush greens. Beautiful textiles. This level of execution often looks effortless. MAISON MARGIELA was another highlight. The LANVIN debut from recently appointed creative director OLIVIER LAPIDUS did not go well. Reactions brought to mind the ill-fated EMANUEL UNGARO x LINDSAY LOHAN collection... This brief on bio-sensing clothing contends that the BLUETOOTH transmitter is expected "to become smaller and smaller until it is simply embedded in the yarn"... GETTY follows French law... Sad news that GARY WARNETT has passed. His knowledge and sharp commentary on the culture of sneakers will be missed.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
import
The New York Times
The New Chloé Girl
by Elizabeth Paton
Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s first show for the brand, scheduled for Thursday in Paris, also will be her first on her own as a head designer.
The Business of Fashion
Amazon's Aesthetic Paradox: Pretty vs Profitable
by Richie Siegel
For fashion and luxury brands, taking an all-or-nothing approach to Amazon is not a good long-term strategy, argues Richie Siegel.
The New York Times
What Does a 'Woke Woman' Wear?
by Vanessa Friedman
Designers at Dior and Saint Laurent have come up with two very different proposals.
The Washington Post
Dior slaps a slogan on a T-shirt and tries to pass it off as feminism
by Robin Givhan
At Paris fashion week, the storied house's clothes were rather childish, but lacking whimsy and delight.
AnOther
Exploring the Meticulously Kept Archives of Dries Van Noten
by Sophie Bew
We take an exclusive look at a monumental new publication that invites you into the designer’s richly woven world, from his first show to his 100th.
The New York Times
In Paris, a New Museum to Celebrate Yves Saint Laurent
by Dana Thomas
A home for the designer’s creations - Mondrian dresses, Cossack coats, the “Sunflowers” jacket and more - will open to the public next week.
SSENSE
Nike × Off-White: Fresh 'Air'
by Adam Wray
Adam Wray spends four days in London with Nike and Virgil Abloh.
Racked
MoMA Has Identified the Most Game-Changing Clothing in the World
by Eliza Brooke
Feel free to disagree, though.
Quartz
A Colin Kaepernick jersey is now hanging in New York’s Museum of Modern Art
by Marc Bain
It serves as a symbol of how a simple sports jersey can communicate powerful social and political messages.
GQ
The Vintage Patagonia Jacket You've Always Wanted Is Now Online
by Cam Wolf
And if you buy it, you’re helping save the environment.
tariff
Highsnobiety
Alexander Wang Interview: How He Disrupted Fashion
by Nico Amarca
Alexander Wang, whose own brand dates just over 12 years, embraced youth culture, social media and brand lifestyle from the get-go.
FASHION magazine
The Cashmere Brand You Need To Know About Now
by Jacquelyn Francis
"We’re living in a world of loud fashion right now" says Agnona's creative director. "My vision of what’s editorial is probably a lot more calm and subtle,”
Vice
The Next Hot Millennial Trend: Never-Ending Labor in Dystopian Warehouses
by Allie Conti
The death of retail, workers' rights, and pension plans have sent migrant seniors into the arms of Amazon. What does this mean for a generation saddled with debt?
Computer Weekly
How retailers are using technology to remain relevant
by Ben Sillitoe
From the constant innovation at Asos, Amazon and Missguided to the new supply chain prowess flaunted by Diesel and Gap, fashion retailers of all types are investing in tech to stay relevant to their shoppers.
Glossy
The Gabriela Hearst guide to building an ethical luxury fashion brand
by Bethany Biron
Gabriela Hearst is a proponent of longevity, in all interpretations of the word. The Uruguayan designer uses it as a guiding principle for most areas of her life -- from the way she designs her products, to the professional and personal relationships she cultivates and the environment she keeps.
PSFK
Why The Fashion Industry Needs A Redesign
by Emily Wasik and Timo Rissanen
Timo Rissanen discusses how we need to rethink the industry in the context of how it directly impacts and is impacted by the world outside of fashion.
Vestoj
Dressing For Magic
by Simon Costin
On the transformative quality of ritual dress.
Roads & Kingdoms
How the Snakeskin Purse Gets Made
by Agoes Rudianto
In Indonesia, snake hunters feed a global industry.
Tank Magazine
Radical fashions: Juliana Huxtable and Stewart Uoo
by Hamish Morrow
Hamish Morrow reviews Juliana Huxtable's new show at Project Native Informant and the first London iteration of Stewart Uoo's annual showcase It's Get Better at the ICA.
JSTOR Daily
A Natural History of the Wedding Dress
by Summer Brennan
The history of the wedding dress is shorter than the history of weddings, and even shorter still than the history of marriage.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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