To be in Paris without seeing fashions is to have one’s eyes closed. Squares, streets, and shops, horse fittings, clothes, and persons—everything displays fashion… A fifteen-day-old outfit is already very out of date among the well-dressed. Fashionable people want new materials, the latest publications, modern ideas, and trendy friends. When a new fashion hatches, the Capital becomes infatuated, and no one dares appear unless decked out in the new finery. | | | | Balmain S/S 2018, Paris Fashion Week, Sept. 28, 2017.
(Victor Boyko/Getty Images) | | | | | | “To be in Paris without seeing fashions is to have one’s eyes closed. Squares, streets, and shops, horse fittings, clothes, and persons—everything displays fashion… A fifteen-day-old outfit is already very out of date among the well-dressed. Fashionable people want new materials, the latest publications, modern ideas, and trendy friends. When a new fashion hatches, the Capital becomes infatuated, and no one dares appear unless decked out in the new finery.”
| - | Marquis de Caraccioli, Voyage de la raison, 1772 |
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| | rantnrave:// Fashion and skateboarding. Sure, the two hinge on style, vernacular, and a futile quest to root out so-called poseurs while maintaining inescapable influence via a global audience. Authenticity is a watchword for creative exploration these days. Also branding. And the merch that goes with it. Where the gauntlet falls along the spectrum of authenticity is up to no single person (sorry influencers), but the intersections and pain points keep it interesting. As for the fashion x skate thing—arguably old hat at this point—try a search through REDEF. There's so much coverage to take in from PARIS FASHION WEEK that we're just going to do this the real/fake authentic way. Through skate gifs. Whatever. So here you go. NATACHA RAMSAY-LEVI made a deft debut at CHLOÉ, not unlike this... OFF-WHITE's "NATURAL WOMAN" collection, inspired by PRINCESS DIANA, might best be illustrated by this "fairytale heelflip swagger" (as described on INSTAGRAM)... PACO RABANNE (I'm really appreciating JULIEN DOSSENA's revival of the house) = the best thing I could come up with is this... For BALMAIN, OLIVIER ROUSTEING brought more subtlety and sleight of hand to the embellished, enmeshed look of the house, still big though... KENZO was a play on the familiar and the work of the founder, definitely not canon, but I'll take it... RICK OWENS = whatever this move is... And finally, LANVIN... Disclaimer: I am not a skate connoisseur. Clearly... Oh, and ICYMI, fashion and technology need to evolve in higher education... Paris Fashion Week scheduling snafu... ROBIN GIVHAN's lovely review of DRIES... PFW continues into next week. Bon weekend everyone. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Dior wants to reach them, but doesn’t know how. Plus: Lanvin’s decline, and deft touches at Margiela and Dries. | | |
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| Optimizing individuality at Chloé and Dries Van Noten. | | |
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| Gary Warnett has passed away & the industry has lost one of its most respected voices. Now it comes together to remember him in his favorite medium: words. | | |
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| Boring black dresses and tacky, unflattering cuts from design houses that should know better. | | |
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| Speaking to six of Berlin’s up and coming fashion design students, it became clear that their idea of success is not what the industry envisions. | | |
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| Tiffany Godoy and Undercover's Jun Takahashi go for a run and discuss creativity. | | |
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| Three of Paris's creative young brands show how streetwear and sexy are done in fashion's capital city. | | |
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| Fueled by millions of Instagram followers, the designer has brought a message of street savvy and inclusiveness to fashion through his Off-White label. | | |
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| In my experience, it goes well beyond not manufacturing enough shades. | | |
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| A rare interview with the Lemaire designer in Paris. | | |
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| Pamela Drucker Mann will replace Norton. | | |
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| How did "Teen Vogue" become a cultural hit driving blockbuster traffic? Phillip Picardi and Elaine Welteroth tell all. | | |
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| Shoppers are skipping stores and going online, but H&M has been slow to follow. | | |
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| Kate Moss, Stella Tennant et al feature in 1994, a beautiful new book from Drew Jarrett documenting magazine-making as it will never be again. | | |
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| Grand restructuring plans captured by optimistic tag lines have become commonplace for luxury brands that have struggled to swiftly adapt to a changing consumer and retail landscape. In this series, we'll break down the promises and analyze the progress of the different brands' master plans to get back on track. | | |
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| James and Lawrence dismiss this week’s major hypebeast headlines and debut their new segment “Fuccboi of the Week.” Then, GQ Style editor-in-chief Will Welch joins for a discussion covering fake hippies, a young, up-and-coming Rick Ross, and answers the #FailGang’s most pressing style inquiries. | | |
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| Luke Leitch fears that the fashion industry’s current penchant for the banal exposes an uncomfortable truth. | | |
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| As climate change rises higher on the list of pressing topics the world needs to address, the fashion industry is not excluded from the conversation. More and more startups are using sustainability as their mission, trying to promote passion for the future of the planet-in addition to striving for sartorial success. | | |
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| That Rihanna dress was just the beginning. | | |
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| Dior's exhibit is showing at the Les Arts Décoratifs through January 2018. Meet the people who put it all together. | | |
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| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
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