WE MUST INVENT FUTURIST CLOTHES, hap-hap-hap-hap-happy clothes, daring clothes with brilliant colours and dynamic lines. They must be simple, and above all they must be made to last for a short time only in order to encourage industrial activity and to provide constant and novel enjoyment for our bodies. | | | | Valentino S/S 2018, Paris Fashion Week, Oct. 1, 2017.
(Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “WE MUST INVENT FUTURIST CLOTHES, hap-hap-hap-hap-happy clothes, daring clothes with brilliant colours and dynamic lines. They must be simple, and above all they must be made to last for a short time only in order to encourage industrial activity and to provide constant and novel enjoyment for our bodies.”
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| | rantnrave:// PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI's S/S 2018 collection for VALENTINO was a high point during PARIS FASHION WEEK's mixed bag of a season. Piccioli drew inspiration, in part, from a photograph of EARTH taken during the APOLLO 8 mission to the moon—new perspectives on the world that come with a view from space. The collection captured that, combining utilitarian garments with references that could have ranged from the celestial to the scientific. There were cargo pants sewn with delicate sequins, gowns and jackets dotted with translucent paillettes, shimmering silver and pale hues offset by rich, saturated crimson. A play on Valentino red, perhaps? It felt progressive and romantic, ethereal but earthbound. There was reference to the work of the house's founder, Valentino Garavani, yet the legacy here felt unburdened—it channeled qualities from the house's past but moved it on to the clothes of spring 2018. Creative directors are tasked with striking a balance between legacy and the future. It's something I always wish for more of at BALENCIAGA. And at another house-that-couture-built, CLAIRE WAIGHT KELLER's GIVENCHY debut felt subdued in its homage to the legacy of HUBERT DE GIVENCHY. Will be interesting to see the haute couture debut... More PFW: TIM BLANKS on COMME DES GARÇONS... CATHY HORYN on fashion's two punks... YOHJI YAMAMOTO... You've never seen MARIMEKKO the way JUNYA WATANABE does it, and it's wonderful... On personal style... RIP S.I. NEWHOUSE JR. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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