This is the most politically engaged young generation we’ve seen for decades, with a conscience and quite a lot of anger and despair at the state of the world, as well as understandable frustration at a corporate system which has largely ceased to offer the opportunities which were dangled in front of them when they went into expensive education.
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Float. Model at Issey Miyake RTW S/S 1994 during Paris Fashion Week, Oct. 1993.
(Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images)
Tuesday - October 03, 2017 Tue - 10/03/17
rantnrave:// STELLA MCCARTNEY has been making sustainability moves for years, but the company seems to be gathering momentum with an impressive spread of environmental initiatives that cover sourcing, strategic partnerships, zero emissions, and ongoing environmental P&L. The label is poised to lead the industry into 21st-century thinking, aligning cost, values, technology, and profit. This is the new luxury. And profits are up by almost half. The S/S 2018 collection held its own on design and aesthetic merit. From the "trashion bag" invites to the flowing jumpsuits and "Skin-Free Skin" trousers, McCartney doesn't sacrifice design for intelligent environmental efforts. She has an intuitive sense of what women want to wear. The label may be able to coax a customer otherwise repelled by "faux" leather into viewing new alternatives as innovative—and luxurious. With organizations like MIROSLAVA DUMA's FASHION TECH LAB getting started, expect to see more in this space. McCartney also announced a partnership with THEREALREAL, citing the re-commerce model as reducing fashion's impact on the planet. It's a coup for JULIE WAINRIGHT and company. The fact that a top-tier fashion label not only publicly acknowledges resale, but encourages and partners with a resale company, feels like a turn. Resale has been a reality for the luxury market for quite some time, but it's been viewed as a threat rather than a place to form partnerships. As for the work e-commerce has to do, consider operations, fueling delivery transport, and logistics. Everyone can do more. The commercial opportunity is there. And there are clear PR benefits... More from PARIS: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, SACAI... ALEXANDER WANG steps back from CEO role... A$AP ROCKY's bodega... TWITCH has an online merch store... MARIANO FORTUNY is the subject of the latest PALAIS GALLIERA exhibition... Our hearts go out to LAS VEGAS. Here's how you can help.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
niche markets
Racked
The US Chamber of Commerce Might Not Be What You Think
by Corynne Cirilli
The group, which accepts funding from companies like Gap Inc. and Target, is a powerful lobbying force in Washington.
Fashionista
Stella McCartney Wants You to Resell Her Goods
by Dhani Mau
The RealReal announced a first-of-its-kind partnership with the designer on the newly formed "National Consignment Day."
The New Yorker
How Essential Oils Became the Cure for Our Age of Anxiety
by Rachel Monroe
Aromatic oils have become big business. But are they medicine or marketing?
The Cut
Excavating Givenchy's Essence
by Cathy Horyn
Clare Waight Keller returns the brand to tailoring, promisingly. Plus: Gvasalia goes his own way at Balenciaga, and Philo gets personal at Céline.
The New York Times
From Mars, That Dress Looks Awesome
by Vanessa Friedman
New perspectives and experimentation at Valentino, Stella McCartney and Céline.
The Washington Post
Valentino is making incredibly glamorous anoraks, of all things. Anoraks!
by Robin Givhan
Plus, unexpectedly fresh and gorgeous ideas for cargo pants, tank dresses and walking shorts.
The Business of Fashion
How to Save the Mall
by Lauren Sherman
Developers of premium shopping centres are reducing their dependence on fashion retail and doubling down on food, wellness and other lifestyle offerings.
Document Journal
MoMA's Paola Antonelli Exposes the Complexities of Getting Dressed with Art Director Peter Saville
by Paola Antonelli and Peter Saville
Tenured at the Museum of Modern Art in New York for over two decades, curator, writer, editor, and lecturer Paola Antonelli has long since made it her mission to reconfigure the lens through which we view art and design, championing everyday objects over the esoteric.
i-D Magazine
Comme Does Kawaii for Spring/Summer 18
by Susanna Lau
Come into this Comme candy shop and stuff yourself silly with flowers, fruit and faces!
Vice
Balenciaga Brings Us Closer to Heaven With a Pair of Platform Crocs
by Rachel Tashjian
Balenciaga’s Crocs are the latest in designer Demna Gvasalia’s campaign to blur the lines between luxury fashion and the clothing we insist belongs outside of it.
megastore
Fast Company
The Cult Of Crocs: Can The Brand Make A Comeback By Fighting Its Haters?
by Elizabeth Segran
It’s the shoe that people love to hate. But in a brand reboot, Crocs is calling out its haters in a politically charged message about tolerance.
Glossy
'Instagirls don't change customer behavior': The limits of influencers
by Jill Manoff
Many brands are still spending big bucks on influencers with upward of a million followers, despite multiple reports that micro-influencers, which demand much lower rates, are more effective at driving ROI. Rhiyen Sharp, whose resume includes years at IMG and New York Models, has represented a wide range of influencers, from models and musicians to Instagram "it" girls.
The Fashion Law
The French 'Photoshop Law' is in Effect ... Now What?
While photoshopping is completely commonplace in fashion advertising and editorials, retouched imagery from a number of the fashion industry's leading brands will look a bit different from now on.
SSENSE
Context is Everything With Ava Nirui
by Romany Williams
Helmut Lang digital editor Ava Nirui discusses her experiences with luxury and counterfeit culture.
Splinter
Why Did a 'GQ' Article About Cartier's Controversial History in Detroit Suddenly Disappear?
by David Uberti
Cartier sunglasses have long been a fashion staple in Detroit. Urban Outfitters even sold knockoffs as "Vintage Detroit Oval Sunglasses" at one point. But the status symbol has also been a target for crime in a city with a well-worn reputation for violence. Writer Zach Goldbaum recently dissected that checkered history for "GQ."
Jing Daily
How Estée Lauder Is Becoming Locally Relevant in China
by Yiling Pan
Here is what you need to know about Estée Lauder's China strategy, which has proven very effective in boosting the brand's sales in the region.
Glossy
Inside Birchbox's 40-person social media war room
by Hilary Milnes
To celebrate its seventh anniversary, Birchbox hosted its annual Customer Appreciation Day, a day full of giveaways and promotions. This year, with the goal of driving sales to its e-commerce site, it enacted a 40-person social media war room to reach out to as many customers as possible with personalized offers.
The Cut
The Sisterhood of the Extremely Long Nails
by Ashley Weatherford
Meet a group of friends with nails as long as their fingers.
Alta Online
Handbags and Gladrags
by Christina Binkley
Making a name for themselves, two upstart fashion designers prowl the backstreets and strip malls of Los Angeles in search of the best materials and crafts people.
TechCrunch
Instagram opens its shoppable posts feature to retailers on Bigcommerce's platform
by Catherine Shu
Businesses based in the United States that use Bigcommerce now have access to Instagram's shoppable posts, the e-commerce platform announced today. This is one of the latest steps in Instagram's gradual roll out of the feature, which began testing last November.
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“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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