In the past few years, what happened in New York was everyone fiddling with ideas of gender and race and wanting to be free and not having labels. It’s very like, 'Whatever, you can’t put your finger on me.' But personally, I feel it’s time to lock down and become more precise and have very bold ideas rather than the bold idea of not having one. | | Opening looks. Louis Vuitton S/S 2018 at Pavillon de l’Horloge, Louvre during Paris Fashion Week. Oct. 3, 2017. (Bertrand Guay/AFP/Getty Images) | | | | “In the past few years, what happened in New York was everyone fiddling with ideas of gender and race and wanting to be free and not having labels. It’s very like, 'Whatever, you can’t put your finger on me.' But personally, I feel it’s time to lock down and become more precise and have very bold ideas rather than the bold idea of not having one.” |
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| rantnrave:// NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE is at the top of his game. LOUIS VUITTON S/S 2018 was based on the concept of anachronism, or time out of chronology. The show mixed 18th-century French menswear with contemporary street—frock coats and waistcoats, ornamental brocade met with sleek lines and sheen. The convergence of time periods, along with Ghesquière's skill in creating silhouette, felt forward-looking, much like the science fiction universes that inspire his work. And in our culture of connectivity and colliding new/old media, it feels as if wider culture is catching up to these sci-fi visions. The show reminded me of titles like JANET MURRAY's "Hamlet on the Holodeck" or WILLIAM GIBSON and BRUCE STERLING’s alt-history novel "The Difference Engine." That kind of imaginative play on time and history is fashion at its best. And no read of contemporary clothing culture is complete without sneakers. The models wore the LVMH accessory versions, surrounded by the walls of the PAVILLON DE L'HOROGE and hundreds of smartphones... More from PFW: CHANEL showed a collection inspired by one essential thing: H2O. Per KARL LAGERFELD, all the collection's textiles were made in-house by Chanel. That's called a luxury industry flex... GIAMBATTISTA VALLI's haute sport separates for MONCLER GAMME ROUGE look great, and THOM BROWNE goes large... AMAZON's acquisition of 3D body scanning company BODY LABS shows the scope of its apparel ambitions. It's a long road, but given the right people and time, it could develop... Briefs: SHOPIFY's INSTAGRAM rollout... Clothes derived from methane... Women of color... PARIS, IL. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| | Kaleidoscope |
On the occasion of NYFW, as a preview of KALEIDOSCOPE's upcoming Fall/Winter issue, the HBA founder and fashion rebel talks community, experimentation process, and his newest collaboration with the legendary Helmut Lang label. | |
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| The New York Times |
Beauty in the shadow of tragedy from Karl Lagerfeld and Sarah Burton. | |
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| The Cut |
Warm collections by McQueen and McCartney, along with some stellar exhibits, remind us that it’s not just technology that draws people to fashion. | |
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| The Washington Post |
In some ways, the fans of the legendary French design house have a lot in common with Deadheads. | |
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| Slam Jam Socialism |
Since the inception of visvim, founder Hiroki Nakamura has worked diligently to define and maintain his vision and aesthetic. Perseverance has been and still is the compass guiding the brand towards success. | |
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| Bon |
Simon Porte Jacquemus brings the aura of a Provence childhood to all he does. What happens when the boy becomes a man? | |
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| The Business of Fashion |
In this month’s China Edit, Chinese executives and their power moves are in the spotlight, Plaza 66 reopens in Shanghai and Dior continues its digital innovation. | |
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| Man Repeller |
Ready for a closet organization yourself? This fashion editor's tale of how she finally purged her closet may convince you to try donating a few things. | |
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| Racked |
It’s as if Ulta, Nyx, and Urban Outfitters had a baby. | |
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| The Fashion Law |
While Paris Fashion Week is swiftly winding down, some of high fashion's biggest consumers are embarking on a week of their own: Golden Week. | |
| | The New York Times |
Messy jobs call for unfussy style. | |
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| TechCrunch |
TechCrunch has learned that Amazon has acquired Body Labs, a company with a stated aim of creating true-to-life 3D body models to support various b2b software applications -- such as virtually trying on clothes or photorealistic avatars for gaming. One source suggested the price-tag Amazon paid for Body Labs could be $100M+. | |
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| Glossy |
Though content studios are becoming increasingly commonplace for media companies -- think: the Time Inc. Content Studio and Hearst's branded video company, Sweet -- Conde Nast is looking to position its newly expanded 23 Stories as a bonafide agency competitor. | |
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| The Cut |
Creator Ezra Koenig of Vampire Weekend shares his style advice. | |
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| Eco-Business |
Of the 80 billion pieces of clothing produced each year, only a fraction is recycled. But researchers in Hong Kong have found a way to extract and reuse polyester fibres infinitely. | |
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| Paper |
"I have always loved PAPER's Beautiful People issue. Mostly because it was never about traditional beauty but was instead about a different kind of beauty... one of amazingness both inside and out. We are passionate about shining light on new talents who not only blow our minds with their ideas and creativity but are also good people." | |
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| Grailed |
Among fashion cognoscenti and inauspicious millionaires alike, Arc’teryx Veilance (pronunciation: Arc·Tair·Icks Vay·Lens) has captivated imaginations by packing Everest summit tech into understated menswear staples that feel just as at home on Fifth Ave. In fewer words: Veilance stands out by simply fitting in. | |
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| Fashionista |
Next up, the direct-to-consumer label is launching women's and men's styles in eight Nordstrom stores on the West Coast. | |
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| Los Angeles Times |
Fashion designer Rosetta Getty and the Argentinian-Italian artist Analia Saban met in August. | |
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| Cooper Hewitt |
"It was bound for the Levant, Damascus, Aleppo. It is now in exile in New York, one of its kind, beautiful but meaningless unless contextualized. That is why I chose to tell its story." | |
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