I don't make explanations of what I design. I am not a philosopher who leaves notes on seats. You watch; you can see what you want.
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Bangladeshi laundrymen line-dry clothes on the banks of the Buriganga river, Dhaka, Dec. 10, 2014.
(Munir Uz Zaman/AFP/Getty Images)
Thursday - October 05, 2017 Thu - 10/05/17
rantnrave:// Does CONDÉ NAST's LGBTQ media brand, THEM, have the potential to move publishing into its next phase? It's a sensible move given the momentum the company has seen with purpose-driven coverage at TEEN VOGUE and other titles like ALLURE. I sometimes cringe at demographics and segmentation, but there is a groundswell among young people who are firm in their values and should absolutely have a platform that speaks to them. The opportunity is there. Execution is everything. Two things stood out to me from BOF's story. PAMELA DRUCKER-MANN is "parallel-pathing" the title's launch and brand development (inviting a select number of ad partners), and there is a multimedia, community-led aspect to the editorial calendar. Readers will be able to submit content. Up until now, publications have struggled with the multimedia aspect, with each media "type" cordoned off onto various platforms with clunky video experiences. If PHILLIP PICARDI and team can push a bigger agenda at Condé to offer a seamless experience, it could be big... PARIS FASHION WEEK is over, and thus ends fashion month. Blink and it's pre-fall. Blink and it's haute couture. Blink and it's fashion month again. To all of our friends and readers making the long journey and reporting back, thank you. With creative director debuts at CHLOÉ and GIVENCHY and American showings from VIRGIL ABLOH, JOSEPH ALTUZARRA, and THOM BROWNE, there were new projects from familiar faces throughout Paris. Designers traditionally identified as avant-garde were the most steady-handed: COMME DES GARÇONS, JUNYA WATANABE, RICK OWENS, and SACAI. The conglomerate-backed labels showed some of the most surprising collections. Some wavered, but there's always next pre-season. LOUIS VUITTON made for an amazing finale. With new paths forward for some of fashion’s oldest houses, the week stood for divergent paths, and change. FashionSET: DIVERGENT PATHS TO PARIS: PFW, S/S 2018. TIM BLANKS' excellent reviews are absent due to paywall, but if you're a BOF pro subscriber you should go for it. Every word. And don't miss Blanks' review of Thom Browne... Seven fashion tech labs around the world... Two exhibitions on CARTIER and silk... A glance at the SUPREME BROOKLYN store... NAADAM has a video on its (best ever) origin story.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
lieto fine
The Cut
How to Dress in 2018
by Cathy Horyn
Nicolas Ghesquière’s blend of modern and classical at Louis Vuitton was the defining moment of the season. Plus: Chanel, Miu Miu and Thom Browne.
The New York Times
The Fashion Dialectic
by Vanessa Friedman
Thesis and antithesis at Thom Browne and Miu Miu; synthesis at Louis Vuitton.
The Business of Fashion
Condé Nast To Launch New LGBTQ Media Brand
by Chantal Fernandez
The new multi-platform title -- called Them -- was conceived by "Teen Vogue’s" Phillip Picardi. Newly appointed chief revenue officer Pamela Drucker Mann sees it as a template for launching future brands.
Racked
Who Gives a Puck About Sports Merch?
by Noah Davis
How to build a brand from scratch, when that brand is a hockey team in the desert.
GQ
Inside the Raging Yeezy Boost Aftermarket
by Andrew Lindsay-Diaz
Demand for Kanye West's sold-out sneaker designs has made a lot of people a lot of money--but how long can it last?
Architectural Digest
Peter Marino Restores Two Hôtels Particuliers for Louis Vuitton's Newest Outpost
by Jane Keltner de Valle
AD talks to the architect about the project.
Co.Design
What Happened When I Wore Google And Levi's 'Smart' Jacket For A Night
by Diana Budds
I took the first mass-produced garment with a textile interface for a spin, and found myself both impressed and frustrated.
i-D Magazine
Chanel, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton: Fashion's Power Players Close Spring/Summer 18
by Susanna Lau
As each house jostled for supremacy, Chanel, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton brought fashion month to a grand close.
Glossy
The Khaite guide to launching the next great American sportswear brand
by Jill Manoff
It makes sense that Khaite was an immediate draw for “AB.” Holstein was also filling a hole in the market: American sportswear made for “today’s woman,” on a full scale. (“A lot of people are focused on just one category,” she said.) The end result is made up of knit bodysuits, trench coat–inspired dresses and a handful of denim styles that have earned a cult following.
Forbes
The End Of E-commerce?
by Steve Dennis
While it's common to talk about e-commerce as a silo-ed shopping experience, the growing reality is that online and offline are often inextricably linked. For many consumers, it's just commerce with the distinctions between the shopping channels growing increasingly blurred.
sprechgesang
Dazed Digital
K-Pop superstar G-Dragon on Chanel, Karl, and gender
by Emma Hope Allwood
We caught five with the musician after yesterday’s show.
The Business of Fashion
What Makes a Great Magazine Editor?
by Alexandra Shulman
Ex-"British Vogue" editor Alexandra Shulman outlines what’s changed and what must stay the same about the business of editing a magazine in today’s digital age.
Grailed
A Halcyon Existence: The Legacy and Longevity of 'Popeye' Magazine
by Leslie Zhang
"Popeye" magazine did something that few other publications can do: last summer, the Japanese men’s fashion and lifestyle magazine celebrated its 40th birthday, a feat for an age where print magazines increasingly seem to be relics of the past. 
Interview Magazine
Jason Wu reflects on his first 10 years
by Diane Kruger and Jason Wu
Ten years into the launch of his eponymous, elegant brand, the New York designer continues to redefine the look and feel of modern american luxury. He's dressed movie stars, supermodels, and, yes, Michelle Obama--but as his sophisticated fall collection suggests, he's only just begun.
Fashionista
The New 'Dynasty' Costumes Include Gucci Fanny Packs, Burberry Trenches and $600 Margiela Sweatpants
by Fawnia Soo Hoo
Costume designer Meredith Markworth-Pollack and the show's cast discuss all the fashion on The CW reboot of the '80s soap.
WWD
Ordre.com Hosts Live Showroom in Paris
by Lily Templeton
The B2B wholesale platform showcased emerging designers and its latest technologies in Paris during Fashion Week.
The Fashion Law
Are Fashion's Rankings All They Are Cracked Up to Be?
Fashion loves a ranking. Hence, the large number of lists released each year outlining everything from the industry's most influential individuals to the companies with the most eco-friendly business models.
Allure
Here's Why We Need to Stop Stigmatizing Men for Wearing Nail Polish
by Devon Abelman
"You’re definitely no less masculine or no more with nail polish on."
Apparel Magazine
TechStyle CEO: Brands Should Be Built Online + E-Comm Leaders Will Be on Their Own Platforms
by Jessica Binns
Apparel caught up with Adam Goldenberg - CEO of billion-dollar web-first startup TechStyle Fashion Group -- at Shop.org last week in Los Angeles where he was among the keynote speakers. TechStyle operates the JustFab, Fabletics, ShoeDazzle and FabKids brands.
Fashion Positive
Case Study: Stella McCartney's Wool Yarn
From sheep to Gold level certified wool yarn, Stella McCartney's journey down the road less taken and its hard-won results. 
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Corpo de Vento"
Priscilla Ermel
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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