The dress must not hang on the body but follow its lines. When a woman smiles the dress must smile with her. | | | | | Mannequins at Holt Renfrew store, Montreal, Canada, 2007. (Colin Rose) | | | | | | “The dress must not hang on the body but follow its lines. When a woman smiles the dress must smile with her.”
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| | rantnrave:// Fashion month S/S ’17 edition is now the stuff of yesteryear. With the exception of see now buy now, it’s the literal stuff of next year. Drops to stores sometime around FEBRUARY/MARCH. For now, S/S ’17 lives on in storage, memory, and instant recall. (Unless you got ROBOTS.TXT. Don’t do that, it’s silly.) Shop some now, some next year. S/o to BRIDGET FOLEY for her review of CHANEL: “Welcome to the high-tech world of KARL LAGERFELD’s mandate and ALAIN WERTHEIMER’s wallet…” Let’s talk about “real person” campaigns. Contrarian take: models are real people too, no? Last time I checked with the “real world” committee, uhhhh, no listed restrictions on being young, thin, and tall that automatically disqualifies one from being “real” (cue MORPHEUS). Sometimes models are men of a certain kg weight. Sometimes they’re trans-/non-IDing. Sometimes they’re 3D wireframes—pixels and bits and…you get the idea. The issue at play when we talk about fashion and the body is often about, wait for it…“ideals” of “beauty.” The right to be seen. In oil paintings and magazine pages and tablet screens. Hegemony. CAROLINE EVANS nailed it when she wrote that models (female, early 20th-century) exist at the intersection of the abstract and the real. They act as imagined, fantastical women of fashion—the stuff of dreams—and laborers at couture houses. And individuals with their own sh*t going on. See THE MECHANICAL SMILE for a hilarious anecdote about how early-20th-century female mannequins would neutralize pervy clients with a thousand-yard stare, seeing directly through them… Fashion is iconography and social communication. It can be a way of seeing. Does visibility mean safety and power? Some fantastic reads today on *the visible* in style, fashion, and culture: JOSEPHINE BAKER, GRACE DUNHAM via STYLELIKEU, ICYMI: ALOK VAID-MENON. Respect… CAM WOLF on "Something for everyone..." There’s another fashion week, like, today. DUBAI, LISBON & PORTO, NEW DELHI, SHANGHAI, LA MARKET WEEK, SEOUL, TOKYO, WARSAW, MONTREAL. That’s it for October. RUN | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| The poet and activist peels away the layers, discussing gender identity, the pitfalls of fame, their crowdsourcing app for queer, trans and gender nonconforming prisoners and why we must imagine a world without incarceration. | | |
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| Is the proliferation of this meaningless phrase lazy writing -- or lazy designing? | | |
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| The magnetic Josephine Baker never ceased to rally against racial discrimination and gender inequality - albeit in her own, fabulous way. | | |
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| The maternity aisle is looking more like a high-end boutique as cultural attitudes about pregnancy shift from bigger and baggier to sleeker and stretchier. | | |
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| To keep up with ‘instant fashion,’ fashion creatives -- from photographers to casting directors to visual merchandisers -- are changing the way they operate. | | |
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| With much talk of economic uncertainty, the industry has taken on a somewhat unsettled feeling of late. Here’s how key trade shows are responding. | | |
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| XLARGE, the OG streetwear brand at ComplexCon next month, survived high-fashion culture vultures and remained true to its roots. | | |
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| Emerging outsider artists are quickly becoming fashion insiders. | | |
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| K11 Art Mall’s Chi Art Space curators invited 15 Chinese contemporary artists to respond to the stories behind Hermès, Dior, Prada, and more. | | |
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| On his home turf of Long Island, Noah founder Brendon Babenzien explains how his brand is staying true to his oceanic roots. | | |
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| Women are trading suits for yoga pants--but can stalwarts like Banana Republic adapt to the new office norms? | | |
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| Robotics have the potential to improve productivity by working alongside human workers to pick and ship more products faster and cheaper | | |
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| For three generations, the Rubinacci family has made suits for Italy's most stylish men. | | |
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| On the monotonous dress of luxury retail sales associates. | | |
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| You know e-tailing. Now meet t-commerce, as Apple TV showcases apps that erase the line between shows and shopping. Mr Porter, the men’s etailer, shows how it’s done. | | |
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| Almost two-thirds of US consumers say they’re generally satisfied with the search results they get when they search on a retailer’s mobile site or mobile app, per results from a new RichRelevance study. But a poor site search experience has consequences. | | |
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| The use of design patent protection is certainly not a new tactic, as brands have been utilizing such protection for decades. However, it seems that many have begun to rely significantly on this form of protection, which extends to the “new, original, and ornamental design for an article of manufacture,” only in relatively recent years. | | |
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| Tim Blanks talks to Karl Lagerfled to decode the creative thinking behind Chanel's latest collection. | | |
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| This Nick Knight fashion film, edited by Younji Ku, sees Comme des Garçons' A/W 16 looks morph and glitch. | | |
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