I realised that I’m a fifty-two-year-old man trying to pretend that I’m a sixteen-year-old skate punk... I have my own kind of ideal that I am trying to emulate.
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Comme des Garçons S/S 2018, Paris Fashion Week, Sept. 30, 2017.
(Peter White/Getty Images)
Friday - October 06, 2017 Fri - 10/06/17
rantnrave:// How many ways can a company align design, materials, and production to create a shoe? The sheer scale of the sneaker business today has companies poised to push our footwear foundations in new directions, at scale. It's a combination of performance, materials, aesthetics, and pop culture. And it follows the directives of fashion, with a drive for novelty and deep symbolism. Tribes form around models and brands. The bestsellers may not have the hype. But they outfit the world. This piece in WIRED UK is a deep dive into ADIDAS' journey to increasing speed to production (there are robots involved) and material innovations like BOOST and PRIMEKNIT. The result of shortening production times and thinking differently about fabrication? The SPEEDFACTORY. Yes, it's speedy. And it markets a company as the sum of its operations. Sneaker shoppers are some of the most engaged customers out there, and showing sneaker origins creates legacy and stories around that elusive term: "innovation." Are apparel companies paying attention?... NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE discusses a fashion designer's place at the nexus of time and culture—drawing on the past, incorporating technological advancement, understanding the 21st century woman. It lends insight into his latest collection for LOUIS VUITTON, and it's great... I'm always interested to see how fashion designers interpret costume for theatre. AITOR THROUP designed costumes for choreographer WAYNE MACGREGOR's AUTOBIOGRAPHY, and they look fantastic... SUPREME BROOKLYN is open and GQ STYLE has party pics... A brief look at textile development from Italian menswear labels... More INSTAGRAM shopping rollouts... BOF's TIM's TAKE LIVE streams today... GRAILED's site for women's fashion, HEROINE, launches Oct. 11... Movie pick of the day via M2M: HANDMADE WITH LOVE, IN FRANCE... Spotted at a SENATE hearing: MONOPOLY MAN. And "he's" here to talk real money.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
frontiers
Document Journal
Louis Vuitton's Creative Director Nicolas Ghesquière Looks to the Past to See the Future
by Nick Vogelson
The power of image, from an in-person first impression to an Instagram post shared with millions of followers, has now been commercialized and politicized, for better or for worse. The role that fashion plays in this is an increasingly important one, something of which Louis Vuitton's artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière is ever mindful.
Wired UK
To make a new kind of shoe, adidas had to change everything
by Rowland Manthorpe
adidas's South Asian factories churn out 720 million shoes a year, but production is slow and inflexible. In Bavaria, robots can make every pair unique. Welcome to the Speedfactory.
The Washington Post
In dark times, fashion grapples for the next right look. Will these styles get us there?
by Robin Givhan
In Paris, designers toyed with unicorns, ghostly twins, aristocrats in gym shorts. Now it's up to you to decide.
The New York Times
MoMA Plunges Headfirst Into Fashion
by Roberta Smith
With its first exhibition since 1944 on clothing design, the Museum of Modern Art gives the Met’s Costume Institute some healthy competition.
GQ
Supreme's Founder Wants Those Lines to Be Shorter, Too
by Jake Woolf
A rare interview with Supreme New York founder James Jebbia as he opens a brand new shop in Williamsburg.
Racked
Why Trying to Resell Your Clothes Is Always So Damn Embarrassing
by Jaya Saxena
There's a reason Buffalo Exchange never wants your post-Kondo castoffs.
Loose Threads
Direct to consumer brands vs commodities: who will prevail?
by Richie Siegel
A few weeks ago, Dave Ambrose tweeted out the above image showing an Away suitcase and an Amazon Basics replica side-by-side. The Away bag costs $295 and the Amazon Basics one is $89.99. Away is one of the current darlings of the direct to consumer boom, and Amazon is, well, Amazon.
AnOther
A Second Look at Comme des Garçons' Multi-Dimensional Manga
by Susannah Frankel
Susannah Frankel takes us on a tour of the Place Vendôme showroom host to Rei Kawakubo’s extraordinary S/S18 collection.
Highsnobiety
Let's Stop Pretending Balenciaga's Crocs Meme-Bait Is Cool
by Alex Rakestraw
Balenciaga debuts a collaboration with Crocs at Paris Fashion Week. What do novel collaborations like this mean for the fashion landscape?
SURFACE
Callidus Guild Fuses Art, Architecture, and Fashion
by John Gendall
Building on her early work of custom wall coverings for some of the world’s greatest fashion houses, Yolande Batteau explores new creative frontiers.
gateways
Tank Magazine
Tribes
by Jake Hall
Jake Hall uncovers the creative collectives behind fashion's most exciting new designers.
The New York Times
Style That Demands to Be Seen
by Ruth La Ferla
For these self-proclaimed outliers, flamboyance can be a first line of defense.
i-D Magazine
andre walker time travels in paris with a new/old collection
by Rory Satran and
The sculptural pieces go beyond buzzwords and definitions.
Fast Company
Fashion’s Future May Rest On An Old Technology: Glue
by Elizabeth Segran
From hip design house Dyne to major brands Nike and Patagonia, the use of adhesive is revolutionizing fashion-and how clothing of the future will be made.
Glossy
Three years in: Coach's restructuring plans provide a template for competitors
by Jessica Schiffer
Grand restructuring plans captured by optimistic tag lines have become commonplace for luxury brands that have struggled to swiftly adapt to a changing consumer and retail landscape. In this series, we'll break down the promises and analyze the progress of the different brands' master plans to get back on track.
Fashionista
Why Nordstrom's New Store Has No Inventory
by Dhani Mau
We went inside the department store's debut merchandise-free outpost.
The New York Times
At Totokaelo's New Home, the Fitting Rooms Are Bank Vaults
by Valeriya Safronova
The cool-kid store from Seattle will open on the bottom two floors of the landmark Germania Bank on the Bowery.
Hypebeast
Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy Discuss Collaboration & Their Relationship
by Robert Patos
"I’m a fifty-two-year-old man trying to pretend that I’m a sixteen-year-old skate punk."
The Fashion Law
Is Trend Forecasting Doing More Harm to the Fashion Industry Than Good?
Marigold-hued garments were all over the runways for Spring/Summer 2018, as were gloves. Yes, over-the-elbow gloves -- for spring -- were incorporated into the collections of Raf Simons for Calvin Klein, Osman, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Ryan Lo, Aalto, Off-White and Koche, among others.
McKinsey & Company
Mapping the benefits of a circular economy
Companies that focus on environmental and social performance may reap profit opportunities their competitors miss.
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K. Leimer
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