It's more democratic now. All access, real time. But fashion, as an industry, is becoming more and more like entertainment. This isn't interesting to me. I appreciate a strong point of view, not something that tries to please everyone. | | Temperatures in the high teens. NYC's Lower East Side, Feb. 19, 2015. (Timothy A. Clary/AFP/Getty Images) | | | | “It's more democratic now. All access, real time. But fashion, as an industry, is becoming more and more like entertainment. This isn't interesting to me. I appreciate a strong point of view, not something that tries to please everyone.” |
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| rantnrave:// What happens when a global phenomenon gets a boost from private equity? SUPREME confirmed Friday that it's taken investment from THE CARLYLE GROUP. It would be easy to see this as a dent in Supreme's armor or yet another death knell for downtown NYC cool. There's some truth to all of it, sure, but it's a little too easy. It doesn't capture the complexity of the company's existence as a hype machine—the fervor for collecting that spawned networks of fans, resellers, bots, and counterfeits. And it doesn't capture the genuine connection fans (and haters) have with the brand. I don't know if anyone has asked JAMES JEBBIA about legacy, but this could be the move that sees Supreme transcending its cultural roots to becoming a commodity brand. It's always played with the identity in its release of branded bricks, stacks of cash, and so on, but now? Whether Supreme's growth remains as tactical and controlled as it has been throughout its 23-year long history remains to be seen. Or will the floodgates open... In another of fashion's twists through time and re-releases, ANDRÉ WALKER showed an incredible collection originating from 1982–86 at the MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS. I want all of it. It struck me that the clothes, despite being conceived over thirty years ago, look relevant and fresh. And the fact that Walker has found a way to resurface and release collections intermittently leaves me feeling good about the creative impulse in fashion. For the uninitiated, the NYT has a wonderful profile on Walker. Samples from the Spring 2018 collection are being sold on a "first-come, first-serve" basis. And for more, Walker is on INSTAGRAM... Love T MAGAZINE's edit-as-ode to the natural world... Ah, the scent of sheer rock face, or rather, the idea of it. Mountain ascent, from BYREDO... No word on CAPRESE BOY, but NEO YOKIO's Caprese martini is legit... I'm a fan of GYPSY SPORT. Missed the label's presence at NYFW, but the PARIS show looked fantastic. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| | The New York Times |
From promising club kid in New York to award winner in Paris to obscurity, and back: André Walker returns to fashion to try again. | |
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| Roden Gray |
Our interview with Luke Meier is meant to interrogate Meier’s leading-edge design approach and uncover the nuanced themes surrounding OAMC. | |
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| The Business of Fashion |
Supreme founder James Jebbia has confirmed the longtime purveyor of ‘downtown cool’ has sold a stake in the company to The Carlyle Group, marking the first time a top-tier private equity firm has invested in streetwear. | |
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| The Guardian |
The subject of a new documentary, Sex, Fashion and Disco, Lopez was best friends with Karl Lagerfeld, advocated diversity long before woke-ness was in fashion - and had dance moves that can only be described as legendary. | |
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| The Business of Fashion |
‘The bishop’ of catwalk images speaks to BoF about Catwalking.com and his six decades in the photographers’ pit at the end of the runway. | |
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| Drapers |
The president of Lane Crawford Joyce Group, Andrew Keith, is digitalising the 167-year-old Hong Kong luxury department store chain for China’s millennial shoppers. | |
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| Dezeen |
Aitor Throup delved into his 12-year archive when developing the outfits for Wayne McGregor's latest performance, Autobiography. | |
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| WGSN |
Retail 'drop' culture has a consumer gender divide, with more men in line outside skate/street hype stores than women. Why is that? | |
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| Complex |
Complex News went down to the Supreme grand store opening in Brooklyn, New York to check out the new box logo tee, the Stone Island collaboration, and more. | |
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| Bloomberg |
Everlane aims to upend the environmental impact of denim manufacturing. | |
| | Out Magazine |
Rio Uribe introduced Gypsy Sport to Paris in the same way he unveiled his brand to New York—disrupting a public park with a queer renegade spirit and cast of powerful, unapologetic outsiders. | |
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| NssMagazine |
Defined as "The Future of Menswear", we contacted him to find out what it's like to be an emerging designer in New York | |
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| Glossy |
ModiFace has built the AR technology used by 84 leading brands today, including Sephora, Estee Lauder, Smashbox, Mac, L'Oreal, CoverGirl and Maybelline. As the tool becomes commonplace, the company has positioned itself as the universal platform for virtual beauty. | |
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| The New York Times |
The footwear designer is now in charge of women’s wear, too -- even though he has not made clothes in his professional career. | |
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| Engadget |
Unless the majority of clothing and footwear companies -- and not just high-end fashion lines like Stella McCartney or select manufacturers like Adidas -- start to make sustainability a priority, the problem will only get worse. That's where Russian fashion industry scion Miroslava Duma and her new organization come in. | |
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| i-D Magazine |
What impact does it have on designers mental health to create a whole new body of work every six months, but also make it commercially viable and is there a new way to work? | |
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| Fashionista |
The daughters of the Forever 21 founders know what they're doing. | |
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| The Cut |
Anonymity and no advertisers allows this account to call out every brand for copying. | |
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| TechCrunch |
Q3 2017 US VC report: Exit options dwindle while late-stage dealmaking reaches new heights In the last two years, Unilever acquired C arver Korea for $2.7 billion. Estee Lauder purchased Too Faced Cosmetics for $1.45 billion. CVC Capital Brands bought PDC Brands for $1.43 billion. | |
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| Reuters |
An unexpected helping hand from creditors, landlords and vendors is allowing more U.S. retailers to stay in business following bankruptcy with most of their stores and employees in the fold. | |
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