It's more democratic now. All access, real time. But fashion, as an industry, is becoming more and more like entertainment. This isn't interesting to me. I appreciate a strong point of view, not something that tries to please everyone.
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Temperatures in the high teens. NYC's Lower East Side, Feb. 19, 2015.
(Timothy A. Clary/AFP/Getty Images)
Monday - October 09, 2017 Mon - 10/09/17
rantnrave:// What happens when a global phenomenon gets a boost from private equity? SUPREME confirmed Friday that it's taken investment from THE CARLYLE GROUP. It would be easy to see this as a dent in Supreme's armor or yet another death knell for downtown NYC cool. There's some truth to all of it, sure, but it's a little too easy. It doesn't capture the complexity of the company's existence as a hype machine—the fervor for collecting that spawned networks of fans, resellers, bots, and counterfeits. And it doesn't capture the genuine connection fans (and haters) have with the brand. I don't know if anyone has asked JAMES JEBBIA about legacy, but this could be the move that sees Supreme transcending its cultural roots to becoming a commodity brand. It's always played with the identity in its release of branded bricks, stacks of cash, and so on, but now? Whether Supreme's growth remains as tactical and controlled as it has been throughout its 23-year long history remains to be seen. Or will the floodgates open... In another of fashion's twists through time and re-releases, ANDRÉ WALKER showed an incredible collection originating from 1982–86 at the MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS. I want all of it. It struck me that the clothes, despite being conceived over thirty years ago, look relevant and fresh. And the fact that Walker has found a way to resurface and release collections intermittently leaves me feeling good about the creative impulse in fashion. For the uninitiated, the NYT has a wonderful profile on Walker. Samples from the Spring 2018 collection are being sold on a "first-come, first-serve" basis. And for more, Walker is on INSTAGRAM... Love T MAGAZINE's edit-as-ode to the natural world... Ah, the scent of sheer rock face, or rather, the idea of it. Mountain ascent, from BYREDO... No word on CAPRESE BOY, but NEO YOKIO's Caprese martini is legit... I'm a fan of GYPSY SPORT. Missed the label's presence at NYFW, but the PARIS show looked fantastic.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
attainment
The New York Times
The Latest Act of a Designer Found, Lost and Found Again
by Matthew Schneier
From promising club kid in New York to award winner in Paris to obscurity, and back: André Walker returns to fashion to try again.
Roden Gray
Luke Meier/OAMC
by Adam Danyluk and Jacky Huang
Our interview with Luke Meier is meant to interrogate Meier’s leading-edge design approach and uncover the nuanced themes surrounding OAMC.
The Business of Fashion
Supreme Confirms Investment From Carlyle Group
by Vikram Alexei Kansara
Supreme founder James Jebbia has confirmed the longtime purveyor of ‘downtown cool’ has sold a stake in the company to The Carlyle Group, marking the first time a top-tier private equity firm has invested in streetwear.
The Guardian
Antonio Lopez: the fashion illustrator who revolutionised the industry
by Lauren Cochrane
The subject of a new documentary, Sex, Fashion and Disco, Lopez was best friends with Karl Lagerfeld, advocated diversity long before woke-ness was in fashion - and had dance moves that can only be described as legendary.
The Business of Fashion
Chris Moore on 60 Years of Photographing the Catwalk
by Osman Ahmed
‘The bishop’ of catwalk images speaks to BoF about Catwalking.com and his six decades in the photographers’ pit at the end of the runway.
Drapers
Breaking China: advice from Hong Kong's luxury ambassador
by Pui-Guan Man
The president of Lane Crawford Joyce Group, Andrew Keith, is digitalising the 167-year-old Hong Kong luxury department store chain for China’s millennial shoppers.
Dezeen
Aitor Throup designs 'clothes, not costumes' for Wayne McGregor ballet
by Alice Morby
Aitor Throup delved into his 12-year archive when developing the outfits for Wayne McGregor's latest performance, Autobiography.
WGSN
Where are the women's brands coming for Supreme's hype crown?
by Carlene Thomas Bailey
Retail 'drop' culture has a consumer gender divide, with more men in line outside skate/street hype stores than women. Why is that?
Complex
Supreme's Brooklyn Store Opening Brought Out Hypebeasts and Resellers
by Shawn Setaro
Complex News went down to the Supreme grand store opening in Brooklyn, New York to check out the new box logo tee, the Stone Island collaboration, and more.
Bloomberg
What Goes Into Making an Earth-Friendly $68 Pair of Jeans
by Nic McCormack
Everlane aims to upend the environmental impact of denim manufacturing.
infotainment
Out Magazine
Gypsy Sport Champions Coexistence & DIY Culture in Paris
by Justin Moran
Rio Uribe introduced Gypsy Sport to Paris in the same way he unveiled his brand to New York—disrupting a public park with a queer renegade spirit and cast of powerful, unapologetic outsiders.
NssMagazine
Interview with Raun La Rose
by Aurora Rossini
Defined as "The Future of Menswear", we contacted him to find out what it's like to be an emerging designer in New York
Glossy
Modiface is becoming the go-to provider of augmented reality to beauty brands
by Hilary Milnes
ModiFace has built the AR technology used by 84 leading brands today, including Sephora, Estee Lauder, Smashbox, Mac, L'Oreal, CoverGirl and Maybelline. As the tool becomes commonplace, the company has positioned itself as the universal platform for virtual beauty.
The New York Times
Can Paul Andrew Fix Ferragamo's Fashion Problem?
by Vanessa Friedman
The footwear designer is now in charge of women’s wear, too -- even though he has not made clothes in his professional career.
Engadget
Spider silk and stem-cell leather are the future of fashion
by Steve Dent
Unless the majority of clothing and footwear companies -- and not just high-end fashion lines like Stella McCartney or select manufacturers like Adidas -- start to make sustainability a priority, the problem will only get worse. That's where Russian fashion industry scion Miroslava Duma and her new organization come in.
i-D Magazine
we asked some designers about staying sane in fashion
by Bryony Stone and Hanna Hanra
What impact does it have on designers mental health to create a whole new body of work every six months, but also make it commercially viable and is there a new way to work?
Fashionista
How New Beauty Store Riley Rose Was Designed to Be the Ultimate 'Homage to Millennials'
by Dhani Mau
The daughters of the Forever 21 founders know what they're doing.
The Cut
Meet Diet Prada, Fierce Fashion Critics for an Instagram Age
by Emilia Petrarca
Anonymity and no advertisers allows this account to call out every brand for copying.
TechCrunch
Should VCs be investing in beauty brands?
by Katie Roof
Q3 2017 US VC report: Exit options dwindle while late-stage dealmaking reaches new heights In the last two years, Unilever acquired C arver Korea for $2.7 billion. Estee Lauder purchased Too Faced Cosmetics for $1.45 billion. CVC Capital Brands bought PDC Brands for $1.43 billion.
Reuters
Bankrupt U.S. retailers begin to catch a break
by Jessica DiNapoli and Tracy Rucinski
An unexpected helping hand from creditors, landlords and vendors is allowing more U.S. retailers to stay in business following bankruptcy with most of their stores and employees in the fold.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"What Have You Done for Me Lately"
Janet Jackson
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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