Having a younger blood in this business has changed the way things are seen. I don't think this season was more diverse because everyone was saying 'let's make it more diverse,' I think it was because it was. I don't see the pendulum swinging back because there was a reason why this happened in the first place. | | | | Perspectives. Beverly Johnson looks out at Robertyo Burle Marx's mosaic walk, Copacabana Beach, Rio de Janeiro. Vogue 1973.
(Kourken Pakchanian/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “Having a younger blood in this business has changed the way things are seen. I don't think this season was more diverse because everyone was saying 'let's make it more diverse,' I think it was because it was. I don't see the pendulum swinging back because there was a reason why this happened in the first place.”
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| | rantnrave:// Hype on the SUPREME deal continues to ripple outward after WWD cited sources that the company is valued at $1B (paywall). I had to chuckle at the subtle (and likely unintentional) dismissiveness of a comment from the article, that "kids" might write negative comments about the deal and then "forget about it in a month." Kids. It's usually an offhand way to refer to tight-knit groups of fans that cluster around brands like Supreme. Nothing wrong with that. Kids are a cultural imaginary, a sliced-and-diced segmented demographic, the subject of endless cultural fascination. But dismissing young people's attention span, their intuition, and their taste, misses the point. Those "kids"—which include anyone from 40-something-year old streetwear enthusiasts to 50-something skaters who've been repping the brand for decades, to old millennial fashion bloggers to, yes, urban cool teens (and their younger brethren)—are the reason for the Supreme deal. I have to re-up FINANCIAL TIMES columnist JOHN GAPPER's statement from January: "Do not feel sorry for the teenagers who are thus manipulated by brands. Those I know are capable of striking hard bargains. Unlike their parents, they were born into a world of liquid markets and price transparency: they know precisely what to spend." Supreme fandom has risen with the internet, and it has roots in fan cultures across all kinds of media. STAR TREK comes to mind. Aside from streetwear sites and HENRY JENKINS, who gets this?... I've never met AMY ASTLEY but always loved her direction at TEEN VOGUE. Now at ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST, Astley and team have launched online brand CLEVER, aimed at, you guessed it, the youth™. Here's a piece on generational color trends... True to its name, RAG AND BONE, named after "rag and bone" pickers, will recycle your denim... BOF launches a new podcast... Financial advice from the SUPREME line... After hours flowers. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Every year, the masters of overstatement stage a traveling extravaganza for customers who compete for one-of-a-kind jewelry, menswear and gowns. | | |
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| At once a perennially emerging designer and a legend amongst fashion insiders, Andre Walker is one of the industry’s most elusive figures. At a time of live feeds, Klout scores and unflinching views beyond the drawn curtains of the beau monde, mystery is an art form—even more so for one of the fashion world’s most discreetly lauded members. | | |
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| With a nod to a more ornate past, a new structure designed by BKSK Architects at 529 Broadway belongs entirely to the present. | | |
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| Seasonal binge-buying doesn’t fit the way consumers shop now. | | |
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| "Blade Runner 2049" falls into stereotypes of what we think "futuristic" clothing looks like. | | |
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| An excerpt from "Fashion is Spinach." | | |
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| Curators like Brian Procell have taken the humble T-shirt, universally practical and unusually personal, to new heights. | | |
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| "The archive is the first thing I see when I go to see Katharine Hamnett. Actually, the first thing I see is her dog, Arthur, but the archive overwhelms. It takes over an entire floor of her east London studio. There are roughly 1,600 garments, charting Hamnett’s influence over the 1980s and early 1990s." | | |
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| But what happens to the company's carefully cultivated exclusivity? | | |
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| The recent sale is a game changer for streetwear. | | |
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| Though the average age of an "Architectural Digest" magazine reader is 53, the Condé Nast-owned publication is setting its sights on a wider demographic. On Monday (Oct 9), it launched a new website called Clever, dedicated to the age 18-34 cohort. | | |
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| On the heels of the Spring/Summer 2018 shows, HighSnobiety's Alex Rakestraw took on one of the buzziest of the month's accessories: The shoes that were borne from a collaboration between Balenciaga and Crocs. | | |
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| Chairs, tables and stools designed by Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo for the brand's stores are going on show at Galerie A1043 in Paris | | |
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| For seasoned box logo bearers, the site on Grand Street on Thursday (Oct 5) was one they should have been well acquainted with-and possibly anticipating. | | |
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| Hint: It's not just about offering foundation in different shades. | | |
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| Home design and fashion merge for some of Ikea’s more unlikely collaborations. | | |
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| "I did a content analysis of Cosmo covers, randomly selecting a sample of 214 between 1975 and 2014." | | |
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| Inside the revival of a 1960s feminist group, the anonymous members of which choose to protest in ways that are very fitting for fall. | | |
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| Art director Peter Saville collaborates again with Paco Rabanne, fusing post-internet aesthetics with Julien Dossena's sensual silhouettes. | | |
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| Why are dad shoes and ugly sneakers trending these days? Pandora Sykes has a theory. | | |
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| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
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