When I was young, Japanese designers travelled the world for inspiration and ideas to bring back. Now, it’s totally upside down, the rest of the world comes to Tokyo, it’s filled with fashion people from overseas who come with their guidebooks and their list of stores to visit. They know a lot more about the city than us now.
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Off-White, Paris Fashion Week, Sept. 28, 2017.
(Richard Bord/Getty Images)
Wednesday - October 11, 2017 Wed - 10/11/17
rantnrave:// Along the axis of street/sport/techwear, there's a burgeoning opportunity to get the women's market right. Arguably many women interested in the space enjoy it because it tends to focus less on gender and more on aesthetic unity. And sure, sometimes women's lines feel token or a label lacks real expertise for womenswear. But at the end of the day, there are only so many men's boxy styles to riff on; there are fundamental differences in cut and fit for those that ID as female. With subtlety, some labels can pull it off. HERNO delivers a strong design vision with garments that fall under menswear and womenswear lines, but it's less street, more aligned with ideals of European-style luxury. INTELLIGENCE MAG has a fantastic interview with EIICHIRO HOMMA, managing director of NANAMICA, who affirms the importance of the NORTH FACE PURPLE LABEL's women's line, while acknowledging that, on an aesthetic level, sports-inspired brands tend to be agnostic in terms of gender and age. Aye, there's the rub. How to cater to utopian visions while practically serving actual bodies? It's fashion's seemingly never-ending debate. Other than crossover from fashion houses that design runway ready sneakers and tech-inspired pullovers (even some pieces from THE ROW fit the market), I've not seen many labels getting this space right. That means opportunity. I don't think the market is as niche as some might assume; there just hasn't been a label to go after it in the right way. And of course it blends with fashion (see GRAILED's HEROINE). WGSN is looking for leads in the space... There's been a lot of coverage on DAPPER DAN and legacy, but what about the future? JIAN DELEON's story on Dapper Dan and A$AP FERG is great for its forward-looking momentum. Dap's story crosses generations. Will be interesting to see how his business evolves after the GUCCI deal. Like HARLEM itself, it's in a state of transition. Never stands still... In light of the chilling reports on HARVEY WEINSTEIN that led to his removal from THE WEINSTEIN COMPANY, BOF's team asserts that the era of fashion's "don't ask, don't tell" policies is over... 500 pieces of collectible GIANNI VERSACE are up on FARFETCH... 2017 boy band style, with PRETTYMUCH.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
triton
Highsnobiety
Dapper Dan & A$AP Ferg: New Yorkers That Brought Harlem to the World
by Jian DeLeon
Tailor Daniel Day, better known as Dapper Dan, is known for outfitting ’80s hip-hop icons in custom kits riffing on high fashion brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, who eventually sued his independent shop out of business for copyright infringement. But decades later, Dapper Dan’s memorable pieces are influencing what goes down the runways more than ever.
intelligence
A Conversation with Eiichiro Homma of nanamica
by Lena Dystant
Celebrating its fifteenth year, nanamica looks back over its impressive archive with a new book showcasing the company’s highlights since its launch in 2003. Currently stocked in over thirty countries, the brand’s big name collaborations and an ever-expanding mainline full of accessible techwear have drawn a loyal audience both home and abroad.
Fashionista
What Moving Its 2017 Fashion Show to Shanghai Really Means for Victoria's Secret
by Fawnia Soo Hoo
And why it's so important for the brand to do it right.
BBC Panorama
The Future of Fashion, Costing the Earth
by Lucy Siegle
Lucy Siegle reports from La Scala, Milan to ask if fashion can ever really be 'green'.
Vogue
How Tom Ford Is Redefining Sustainable Luxury, One Suit at a Time
by Steff Yotka
Director, designer, and writer are all labels one could readily apply to Tom Ford-but what about environmentalist? Here, the fashion legend explains his next quest to save the world, one suit at a time.
Highsnobiety
The Carlyle Group: Here's What You Need to Know About Supreme's New Investors
by Max Grobe
Yesterday, James Jebbia confirmed that Supreme had sold a 50% stake to private equity firm The Carlyle Group, what does this mean for the cult skate label?
The Business of Fashion
How Supreme Grew a $1 Billion Business with Secret Partner
by Vikram Alexei Kansara
Supreme scaled from scrappy start-up to billion-dollar streetwear juggernaut with private equity funding going back to 2014.
Racked
Digital Closet Startups Want to Give You the Cher Horowitz Experience
by Alli Hoff Kosik
Apps for when you actually have a way normal life for a teenage girl.
Hollywood Reporter
Harvey Weinstein Puts Wife's Marchesa Fashion Brand in Tough Spot
by Booth Moore
The scandal-ridden producer is a fashion-world fixture, and wife Georgina Chapman's brand is a Hollywood red-carpet mainstay. Now what?
The Business of Fashion
Why the Fall of Harvey Weinstein Signals the End of Fashion's 'Don't Ask, Don't Tell' Practices
by BoF Team
Weinstein’s accusers were muffled for more than two decades, but today's connected world won't tolerate this sort of behaviour in any industry, including fashion.
heathrow
WWD
WME|IMG Forms Holding Company ‘Endeavor’
by Alexandra Steigrad
Endeavor will be run by chief executive officer Ariel Emanuel and executive chairman Patrick Whitesell.
The Cut
The Cognitive Bias That Makes You Bad at Online Shopping
by Ilana Straus
More popular doesn’t necessarily mean better.
ELLE
Technology Is Coming for the Fashion Industry--Whether They Like It or Not
by Jenna Blaha
"Brands better start thinking of how to bring new things to people or else the G is not going to be a freaking Gucci, that s*** is going to be Google."
WWD
Riccardo Tisci Links With Nike on Basketball Collection, Sneakers
by Kari Hamanaka
The designer emerged from sabbatical to work with the sportswear company on a new collection that includes a much-anticipated sneaker.
AnOther
Recoding Givenchy: Moving Forward While Looking Back
by Alexander Fury
Claire Waight Keller’s debut collection for the house combined references to its design icons with a smattering of fresh new ideas, writes Alexander Fury.
Jing Daily
JD's New Luxury E-commerce Site 'Toplife', Explained
by Yiling Pan
Here is what you need to know about JD's new luxury e-commerce site "Toplife", which is a competing platform to Alibaba's "Luxury Pavilion".
Liberty Street Economics
How Is Online Shopping Affecting Retail Employment?
by Jason Bram and Nicole Gorton
It’s been said that if you want to know how the economy is doing, look at how many people are carrying shopping bags. That adage may not hold so well today. The rise of the internet and e-commerce over the past two decades has chipped away at the market share of “brick and mortar” retailers.
The New York Times
Donna Karan Wonders if Women Are Dressing for ‘Trouble’
by Valeriya Safronova
Asked about Harvey Weinstein, the designer said: “How do we present ourselves as women? What are we asking? Are we asking for it?”
Glossy
What it's like to be an Instagram model: 'There's definitely a stigma, if you've done lingerie'
by Jessica Schiffer
Patrizia Yanguela has 1.4 million followers on Instagram and regularly partners with fitness, lingerie and fashion brands on promotional posts and photo shoots. We called up Yanguela to chat about the industry's stigma with lingerie models and how she deals with the constant judgment on social media.
Atlas Obscura
Before Mace, a Hatpin Was an Unescorted Lady’s Best Defense
by Natasha Frost
Accessories to assault.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
SoundCloud
"Midnight Driver"
Minako Yoshida
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