If the decision is reversible, we would prefer that people take a chance. You can walk through the door. If you don’t like what you see on the other side, you just walk back through and you’re fine. If it’s not reversible, we spend a lot more time thinking about those. We will argue the merits of whatever decision we are making. | | | | Speed. Vogue 1972.
(Kourken Pakchanian/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | | | “If the decision is reversible, we would prefer that people take a chance. You can walk through the door. If you don’t like what you see on the other side, you just walk back through and you’re fine. If it’s not reversible, we spend a lot more time thinking about those. We will argue the merits of whatever decision we are making.”
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| | rantnrave:// When does gossip serve as a means of spreading useful inside information, and when does it devolve into false narratives—or worse, pettiness and collusion that create negative effects across an industry? Enjoyed reading the questions VANESSA FRIEDMAN asks here about gossip that's rife within the fashion industry. Friedman highlights consistent rumors about creative directors moving to VERSACE: it was RICCARDO TISCI, then VIRGIL ABLOH, and lately, KIM JONES. What if conversations focused less on degrees of precarious employment but things that attract people to fashion in the first place—creativity, craft, self-expression? Perhaps a side effect of the gossip culture is that it gives casual observers and fans of fashion a sense that things they read are part of a publicity-driven mask. And within the industry it can create an environment of paranoia and judgment. Separating news, gossip, sentiment, fact, and information worthy of attention is like a choose-your-own-adventure online. And in the age of social media trolling—and the page views (and ad revenue) it generates—do readers want re-reporting of "trending" posts already pushed to the top of their feeds? The era of "virality," or better, spreadable media, is a decade or more old now. Then we entered an age of filtering and selectivity. I'd argue we're close to moving into another phase of media—what's next? The traditional meaning of the term "curator" is to be a keeper of something. As keepers of media, social platforms have an opportunity to lead culture as much as they aggregate. Open question to social media companies: why not have curation teams select unexpected, human stories—stories that uplift instead of antagonize and scare? True discovery instead of the same underlying message: be afraid... Fashion illustrator ANTONIO LOPEZ was incredibly talented and gone too soon at the age of 44. New documentary ANTONIO LOPEZ 1970: SEX, FASHION & DISCO looks promising. I'll take any opportunity to see more of his work... Picked up a copy of new, biannual magazine SCANDINAVIAN MAN at the launch Wednesday night, and the first issue is beautifully designed, including interviews with BERGDORF GOODMAN's BRUCE PASK, RAIN co-founders ALEXANDER HELLE and T-MICHAEL, designer JOHAN LINDEBERG and more. Some of fashion's largest players are making social values more central to their marketing and operations, and the mag focuses on sharing Scandinavian values in a global context. It's an intriguing first issue, with brief essays on topics like gender and shopping... Resale mecca ROUND TWO opens a location in NYC... This ode to LEONARDO DICAPRIO's "CITI-BIKE style" made me smile... Commentary on RALPH LAUREN's empire... BRANDLESS goes for beauty. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| A pattern to unite the world, Kyle Ng dives into plaid's history. He visits Scotland, UK to see how tartan is part of a family's DNA, hangs with a low rider club in California, USA, and sees how the fabric is a part of tribal identity in Africa. | | |
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| There’s so much rumor and muckraking going on, it may be messing with designers’ ability to make good clothes. | | |
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| A growing number of labels are betting archival re-issues, along with more ephemeral collections, will help them deliver a winning mix of consistency and newness, with benefits to brand storytelling and the bottom line. | | |
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| Hearst's Chief Content Officer Joanna Coles on how she thinks about reinventing the 130 year old legacy magazine company. | | |
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| Backpacks are storming corporate America, with luxurious business-like versions elbowing out briefcases and messenger bags. Plus: One adamant backpack-hater on why he’ll never convert. | | |
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| Actual products are now starting to be made from groundbreaking synthetic spider silk. In fashion, Stella McCartney is leading the way. | | |
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| Victoria's Secret, Aerie, and others are deputizing campus brand reps across the country. | | |
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| As the Soweto-born, Johannesburg city-based fashion designer shares his latest whimsical campaign, we discuss how his work explores his own queer identity alongside the past, present, and future of South Africa. | | |
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| As Christie's prepares to sell a da Vinci masterpiece, we look at how fashion designers are finding inspiration in the world of Old Master painting. | | |
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| Fashion is one of world’s most polluting industries. As Theory turns 20, founder Andrew Rosen has a bold plan to develop workwear that is more Earth-friendly. | | |
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| Jeff Wilke, Amazon’s chief executive of world-wide consumer, focuses on the wants and needs of the retailer’s customers. He also is in charge of integrating Whole Foods, Amazon’s latest purchase, into the fold. | | |
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| "thedrop@barneys" features collabs with Off-White, Heron Preston, Gucci exclusives, and in-store events for two days at Barneys New York's flagship store. | | |
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| Marco Bizzarri announced the label’s new policy during a talk at the London College of Fashion. | | |
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| Gucci’s move to drop fur marks a shift toward social responsibility. | | |
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| A glimpse of 'Aperture' magazine's most recent issue. | | |
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| Marchesa has never shaken the perception that Weinstein was the mastermind behind the brand. | | |
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| It helps to have Todd Snyder as a neighbor. | | |
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| The Fall 2018 Bridal Week runways showed support for body-positivity, which will hopefully make for a more size-diverse wedding dress shopping experience. | | |
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| At this point, it would be hard to name a brand Anna Sui has not collaborated with. The designer's not-so-short list of partnerships to date includes Starbucks, Hush Puppies, Target, Ford, Tumi, Frye, Fila, O'Neill, Samsung, Mattel, Coach, T-Mobile, FitFlop, Opening Ceremony, Victoria's Secret and Vogue. | | |
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| "Fashion historians and fans alike often contextualize the brilliant, groundbreaking career of Salvatore Ferragamo in relationship to the myth of Cinderella, but Ferragamo’s impact on the footwear industry has less to do with a fairytale and more to do with the obsession that characterizes many great artists." | | |
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