When you have something popular you have to be careful with the volume. If people see something too much, they get tired, so we are very careful and control the number of units we sell.
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"Missoni Miss." 1975.
(Hulton Archive/Archive Images/Getty Images)
Wednesday - October 18, 2017 Wed - 10/18/17
rantnrave:// Great topic for debate: who benefits from all the trading in the secondary market for sneakers and streetwear? STOCKX announced Tuesday that it's moving into streetwear. The marketplace known for sneaker trading aims to deliver price transparency and a centralized market hub. It's also profiting from spaces previously dominated by amateurs and fans. Good or bad? What are the implications for sneaker manufacturing? For culture? CAM WOLF's piece for GQ quotes sneaker vlogger akaTRENT, who has this to say on searching for market prices for sneaker resale: "I'm not advocating for someone to use StockX—I'm literally saying that this is pretty much the only place I can do that very quickly." A market like StockX has its advantages, but it can detract from some of the serendipity that make resale markets fun. I've always been amazed at how enthusiasts of anything have a kind of preternatural instinct for pricing and market movements—and of course, those without literacy or access to information are the ones most vulnerable. As it ever was. What's next, people start taking short positions on JORDANS and front running YEEZYS? I'm kidding, but still... Love seeing projects like NEU NEU, a media platform that celebrates black creatives in fashion. The magazine is identity-driven, but the message is firmly inclusive. It's not "for us, by us," but "by us, for everyone"... The constant tracking of creative directors is like fashion's version of homing beacons or "where's my IPHONE." Except these aren't iPhones. They're talented, high achieving individuals responsible for the aesthetic direction of massive empires of ready-to-wear, accessories, advertising imagery, and social media. Per anonymous sources, PHOEBE PHILO may leave CÉLINE. LVMH denies it. Is anyone else feeling fatigue over the churn, not to mention the slingshotting of aesthetic direction at fashion's most well-known labels? If Philo does leave, how is the brand positioned to accelerate growth? CÉLINE became white hot under Philo's direction, inspiring unilateral riffing off of the label's aesthetic from fast fashion to mid-level luxury startups. I remember when just about every label, luxury or otherwise, began gold stamping a diminutive logo onto its handbags à la Céline. Cult status can be hard to maintain when the riffing begins. If Philo does leave, she leaves behind a long shadow—a tough act to follow... LIZ TILBERIS's HARPER'S BAZAAR is one of my favorite eras in the magazine's history. Fun to browse via online archives... KATE LANPHEAR is creative director at MARIE CLAIRE... Stats on US retail sales... Hybrid footwear.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
forebears
The Chronicle of Higher Education
What We Wear in the Underfunded University
by Shahidha Bari
In higher ed, threadbare is the new black.
WWD
Sexual Abuse in Modeling: The Outcry Grows
by Lisa Lockwood, Rosemary Feitelberg and Alexandra Steigrad
Model Cameron Russell is shedding light on decades of sexual abuse in the modeling industry.
Neu Neu Media
Interview: Edvin Thompson's Theophilio
by Amber Alston
At 24, the Jamaican native has caught the attention of girl group Fifth Harmony with his raw, disruptive designs and had his clothes featured in publications like Fucking Young and Cakeboy, all while Vogue street style photographers praise his personal, colorful style.
South China Morning Post
Phillip Lim talks about ‘Made in China’ stigma and being Chinese
by Jing Zhang
The Asian American designer feels a strong connection to China and wants to change the stereotypical view of manufacturing in the country as poor-quality.
Harper's Bazaar
The Legend of Liz Tilberis -- One of 'Bazaar's' Best
by Stephen Mooallem
A look at one of the most thrilling--and ultimately heartbreaking--chapters in the magazine’s history.
BULLETT
‘Neu Neu’ is the NYC Magazine Celebrating Black Creatives
by Alexandra Weiss
Everyone knows 'diversity' is it the It-word of the season-from inclusivity mandates to countless "changing faces of fashion" features, the industry has finally started to catch up with the rest of the world, in terms of rightfully banishing all-white runways. Or have they?
Racked
Clothing Swaps Can Be a Lifeline for Queer and Trans People
by Sian Ferguson
Fitting rooms can cause extra hassle.
The Cut
François Nars on Instagram Makeup and the Future of Beauty
by Kathleen Hou
“If makeup becomes a corset, it’s not a good thing or a good message for women around the world.”
The Business of Fashion
For Beauty Marketers, the New Buzzword Is 'Anti-Pollution'
by Rachel Jacoby Zoldan
Beauty companies are moving away from anti-ageing to anti-pollution, a concept aimed at wellness-obsessed and prevention-driven Millennial and Generation Z consumers. Will the bet pay off?
Aperture Foundation NY
For Durimel, Black Humanity is Not a Fashion Trend
by Antwaun Sargent
The young photography duo Jalan and Jibril Durimel are transforming the fashion world's visions of beauty.
wanderers
Fashionista
How Vintage Stores Are Reinventing Themselves For a New Generation of Shoppers
by Maria Bobila
As shoppers are increasingly more fashion-conscious and digitally savvy, the traditional vintage store is getting a modern-day update.
Highsnobiety
Meet Brents Sportswear: The '90s Supreme Clothing Producer
by Ross Wilson
Supreme has always been more than just your average graphic T-shirt brand. Meet Brents Sportswear, the Supreme producent from the '90s.
GQ
The Company That Treats Sneakers like Stocks
by Cam Wolf
StockX started as a sneaker resale market. Now it's expanding into streetwear, starting with Supreme.
Retail Dive
6 retailers that are forgotten -- but not gone
by Ben Unglesbee
Amazon hasn't killed them. They haven't been raptured in the "retail apocalypse." Nor are they trending online or in the media. But these retailers have staying power.
GQ Style
The Coolest New Brand at Dover Street Market Is a Fashion Line Made by Furniture Designers
by Samuel Hine
Jaime Hayon and Jasper Morrison are bringing their industrial design talents to your wardrobe.
The Fashion Law
Un-Branded: How Consumers Have Outgrown Traditional Branding
The Spring/Summer 2018 shows - whether in New York or Paris - made it clear that logomania is back. After doing away with ubiquitous branding several years ago, on the heels of what has been referred to as “logo fatigue,” not even some of more logo-adverse brands can stay away as of late.
Garage Magazine
Is This the Coolest Street in New York?
by Melvin Backman
Howard Street is a four-block stretch in Soho that has some of the best shopping in the city-and is thriving despite the neighborhood’s retail woes.
JOOJOO AZAD | جوجو آزاد
Making Racists Uncomfortable, One Outfit at a Time
by Hoda Katebi
It was not the first time I was asked, by friends, family, and strangers across the internet -- why do you wear provocative clothes that make people stare at you? Are you intentionally wearing clothes that make people uncomfortable?The answer is less simple than you might think.
Vestoj
Leaving Home, Part One: A Conversation With Bushra Al-Fusail
by Anja Aronowsky Cronberg
The following is the first in a series of three conversations in which recent refugees reflect on material possessions.
It's Nice That
'Fantastic Man's' unexpected cover story on the surfers and fisherman of Peniche, Portugal
by Lucy Bourton
Each season as a new issue of "Fantastic Man" is released, conversation ensues around who it has chosen for its cover. What the publication has always done -- whether it be featuring Bryan Ferry, Christopher Waltz or Jeremy Deller -- is choose someone you wouldn't quite expect but equally someone you adore, or will do once you've finished reading.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Fantastic Man"
William Onyeabor
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