My work is like lay therapy. You listen, you prescribe—clothes are a fix—and you hold up a mirror. Most people can’t see themselves.
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Katie Rosman Shop at the Antique Boutique in NOHO, NYC, June 5. 1996.
(Mark Peterson/Corbis Historical/Getty Images)
Friday - October 20, 2017 Fri - 10/20/17
rantnrave:// LOOSE THREADS INTEL dropped its first special report, "Fast or Frivolous: How building consumer brands is evolving, accelerating and evaporating." Understanding capital structures, or as some like to put it—the "money behind the money"—changes how companies do business, how they grow, and how they deal with the thing often most elusive: time. And that's the best part of "Fast or Frivolous." It tracks companies' overlapping timeframes based on a combination of factors: access to funding, when they were founded, when they opened their first store, revenue growth, path to profitability, and more. RICHIE SIEGEL and co. make some compelling arguments by segmenting companies into Heritage Brands, Digitally-Native Phase 1 Brands, and Digitally-Native Phase 2 Brands. How do these companies compare? The report asks important questions about the future of the youngest digitally-native brands. How do their timelines overlap, and how has early funding altered their trajectory and growth potential? Other than a few notable exceptions, is the space poised for "a bloodbath?" The report is available to Loose Threads Intel members, so if you haven't joined already, it's a valuable resource. You can find an intro to the report from LT's newsletter, RIPCORD... Fashion weeks in ASIA are in full swing. English-language coverage has been scant save for street style slideshows. By the end of September, editorial teams are reeling from the fashion month circuit, and that can mean nearly nonexistent coverage for up-and-coming fashion weeks outside NYC-LONDON-MILAN-PARIS. Nice to see BOF's list of promising designers from SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK, dubbed the "SHANGHAI Eight." WWD has runway coverage from TOKYO FASHION WEEK, and meanwhile, SEOUL FASHION WEEK is ongoing until Oct. 21... The last selvedge denim mill in the US is set to close. CONE DENIM's WHITE OAK facility was legendary in the denim community. It had a 112-year run, having been purchased by private equity firm PLATINUM EQUITY in late 2016. According to a statement, the factory wasn't receiving enough orders. Would love to know more—how will the closure impact the niche supply of selvedge denim that's out there? Are enthusiasts of selvedge denim concerned? In ITALY, denim manufacturer ITV, founded in 1972, is also shuttering. Tough day for the denim heads... Enjoyed this interview with ALEALI MAY. The blogger, stylist, and signed influencer talks designing JORDANS and her roots in working with DON C and RSVP GALLERY in CHICAGO. And ICYMI, don't miss her on this panel with VIRGIL ABLOH, Don C, and SPIKE LEE... Briefs: STITCH FIX files for IPO... A VOGUE x VICE partnership is announced with this wink-and-nod promo of ANNA WINTOUR saying "Subculture. Subculture?"... Documentary WE MARGIELA premieres Oct. 22 in the NETHERLANDS... Recycled cashmere at NOAH... SUPREME's GWARIZM tee.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
forecast
The New York Times
A Madoff Gets a Makeover. By Giving Them.
by Hilary Sargent
“Don’t think that you’re staring at some girl who has it all,” Stephanie Mack tells personal-shopping clients. “Let me tell you what happened to me.”
The Business of Fashion
Meet the Shanghai Eight
by Gemma A. Williams
As Shanghai Fashion Week draws to a close, the city cements its position as the springboard for progressive Chinese design. BoF highlights eight of its most promising designers.
Red Bull TV
Social Fabric S1E6: Cowboy Boots
by Kyle Ng
Saddle up and join Kyle Ng as he travels the world to learn how the cowboy boot made its way off the prairie. He visits Texas, United States to see where it all began, chills with cowboys in Rome, Italy, and rocks out with Kenyan heavy metal cowboys.
Fashionista
Aleali May, the Designer Behind Jordan's First-Ever Unisex Sneaker, Is One to Watch
by Rae Witte
The stylist, model and influencer created a shoe that pays homage to her hometown of Los Angeles.
The New York Times
How to Dress to Win an Election: The Sebastian Kurz Primer
by Vanessa Friedman
After Justin Trudeau and Emmanuel Macron, a new political style strategist emerges in Mr. Kurz, a 31-year-old soon to be Austria’s chancellor.
Interview Magazine
Explore fashion from the 2000s as you've never seen it before
by Ezra Marcus
A new exhibit takes stock of the wild and wonderful style of the Noughties.
Greensboro News & Record
End of an era: After 112 years, White Oak plant to close
by Richard Barron
For the first time since the late 1800s, Greensboro workers will no longer make a product under the name Cone, one of the city's indelible founding families.
Loose Threads
From a digitally-native gold rush to an impending bloodbath
by Richie Siegel
Will any digitally-native brands out-scale and outlast the 20th century heritage brands that came before them? This is the most pressing question for the digitally-native gold rush, which has led investors to pump hundreds of millions of dollars into fledgeling brands.
Fashionista
Harry Styles's New Gucci Uniform Makes a Very Specific Point
by Maura Brannigan
How do his printed suits stack up to the wares of megastars who came before him?
Glossy
New brands are changing what 'made in China' means for fashion
by Hilary Milnes
“Made in China” fashion startups are hoping to draw other brands that manufacture there out of the shadows.
foreclose
The Fashion Law
Why is Fashion Lagging Behind in Terms of its Efforts to Ward off Sexual Harassment?
by TFL
While Hollywood is busy making moves to out some of the most egregious predators in its ranks after the New York Times published an expose on film executive Harvey Weinstein and his alleged 30 years of sexually harassing and assaulting actresses, the fashion industry is certainly talking - but will likely be much slower to come around.
Racked
Male Execs Pretty Sure Assault’s Not a Problem in Fashion
by Chavie Lieber
A ‘WWD’ article on the topic failed to include any thoughts from women.
i-D Magazine
10 questions you always wanted to ask a casting director
by Steve Salter
“I have never seen Zoolander. I think I’d cringe too much.”
AnOther
The Female Fashion Photographer Who Inspired Avedon and Penn
by Helena Fletcher
Louise Dahl-Wolfe’s dynamic work paved the way for a generation of fashion photographers, and at a time when women rarely did so, as a new London exhibition attests.
MR PORTER
The Many Stories Of Instagram Founder Kevin Systrom
by Dan Rookwood
Mr Kevin Systrom, Silicon Valley’s snappiest CEO, is cleaning up the internet with automated kindness.
The Cut
Weinstein and Vogue, a Special Relationship
by Amy Larocca
1999 was the year Miramax won ten Oscars. It was also the dawn of the celebrity fashion cover.
Retail Dive
The transformation of the NRF — and how Matthew Shay envisions the future
by Corinne Ruff
The head of the trade association sat down with Retail Dive to share what he’s learned during his seven years at the helm and what role the organization plays going forward.
Hypebeast
Juun.J on the Past, Present and Future of Korean Design Culture
by Joanna Fu
And how the military and Korean "masculinity" influence his designs.
The Associated Press
'Project Runway' fashion designer Mychael Knight dies
by Chevel Johnson
Georgia fashion designer Mychael Knight, who was a finalist on the popular TV competition show "Project Runway," died Tuesday at age 39. Knight died outside Atlanta surrou
BOMB Magazine
The Visual Choreographic: Walter Dundervill Interviewed by Ivan Talijancic
by Ivan Talijancic
The art and science of the costume.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Autumn"
Richenel
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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