I am designing for my generation, but in Japan people are very much seeking the old way of life again. Sexual differentiation in clothing is more important. My major customers there are still the university students. My generation isn't ready for me yet. They think Yohji is not fashionable enough for them. They will see. | | | | Uphill. Swiss Alps, Mademoiselle 1963.
(George Barkentin/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “I am designing for my generation, but in Japan people are very much seeking the old way of life again. Sexual differentiation in clothing is more important. My major customers there are still the university students. My generation isn't ready for me yet. They think Yohji is not fashionable enough for them. They will see.”
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| | rantnrave:// There might be a new shoe emoji coming to your screens. FLORIE HUTCHISON, a publicist, and JENNIFER 8 LEE, vice-chair of the EMOJI SUBCOMITTEE and a co-founder of EMOJINATION, worked together to propose a flat shoe emoji (as opposed to existing high-heeled versions) in the next round of approvals by the UNICODE CONSORTIUM. Is a shoe inspired by ballet pointe shoes less controversial than a red high heel? High heels have a varied history when it comes to gender. It'd be great if we could all embrace the fact that men, women, and people of all gender IDs wear heels and that there are a wide range of identities associated with wearing them, but I appreciate the underlying motivation here. There's no doubt high heels invite the same kind of oversimplified views once reserved for "feminized" garments such as corsets (thankfully there are books like this one). And there are many ways to project identity and cultural values onto a shoe. The potential addition of a ballet flat to the emoji lexicon adds options. It's another symbolic shorthand that can be read in a variety of ways. Emoji spark conversations about representation and inclusivity, and that's not a bad thing. By nature, symbolic shorthands may never be inclusive enough. If you start asking fashion enthusiasts, I'm guessing we'd max out the Unicode specification in no time—on footwear alone. Who's down for the MARGIELA TABI emoji? Traditional tabi? Custom ENZO BONAFÉ? The list could go on and on. And on. Don't get us started. Sock booties. Dad sneakers. Platform CROCS. Espadrilles. Cowboy boots. Kitten heels. Bear slippers. Flip flops. GUCCI loafs... "Extremist" footwear... Reaction to the STITCH FIX IPO has been largely positive, with some well-considered analysis from BLOOMBERG and GLOSSY. What's the word on how the company is retaining customers (or, in conventional business speak, "customer retention")?... The LA TIMES examines HARVEY WEINSTEIN's ties to fashion. Over ten of the women who've come forward with accounts of sexual abuse worked as models... NOAH is collaborating on a special collection with TRACKSMITH. Drops Nov. 3... L'OREAL wants start-ups in PARIS... If the craft of fashion drew DANIEL DAY-LEWIS to leave acting in pursuit of dressmaking, all I want to know is which house he's going to take over as creative director (ha). A few more details are out on PAUL THOMAS ANDERSON's film PHANTOM THREAD, which stars Day-Lewis as a dressmaker in 1950s postwar LONDON. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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