I wanna wear something a bit more disciplined and formal to counterbalance this kind of sordid discord and chaos that we’re experiencing. If my clothes are any kind of answer to that, it’s just a little more formality. Blazers are really about being polite and I don’t see a lot of that being emphasized enough right now.
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Dries Van Noten RTW S/S 1997. Paris Fashion Week, October 1996.
(Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images)
Wednesday - October 25, 2017 Wed - 10/25/17
rantnrave:// Per a leaked e-mail to the TELEGRAPH, TERRY RICHARDSON is barred from working with CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL titles. Richardson has been the subject of several sexual abuse claims for years, but it hasn't stopped him from working with some of fashion's top magazines and brands. ROBIN GIVHAN's statement hits home here: "The facts of Richardson’s behavior have not changed over the past few years. Only the context." Career-obliterating scandals like that of HARVEY WEINSTEIN and activism from the MODEL ALLIANCE and model CAMERON RUSSELL serve as motivation to stand against sexual abuse today, but what about all the years prior? It's important for companies to take unilateral action against sexual abuse. Yet in Richardson's case, the action feels not only years overdue, but misguided. Richardson should have been out long ago. And per models' stories, the abuse isn't exclusive to one photographer. How about prevention? How about zero tolerance? VALENTINO and BULGARI told THE DAILY BEAST there are no future plans to work with Richardson. Richardson responded through a publicist that he's "disappointed" with Condé's decision. Meanwhile everyone's disappointed we have to have the same debate over and over again. Richardson has become a symbol—a specter of apparent abuse kept silent for decades—but it's everyone's problem. What can the industry do to prevent the abuse rather than react after it goes widely public?... It appears HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY is bowing to pressures from an activist investor by leveraging its real estate portfolio, selling its flagship LORD & TAYLOR building to WEWORK. Both companies' reputations have been hinging on a game of "are-you-or-aren't-you a real estate company?" lately. HBC has been pressured by activist investor LAND & BUILDINGS (guess what it does) to operate more like a real estate company, while WeWork has distanced itself from the real estate industry after accusations it's being "fueled by SILICON VALLEY pixie dust." That's whiplash headline speak for overvalued. Meet in the middle and you've got a very different building at 424 FIFTH AVENUE in NYC. RETAIL DIVE has a report on what might be next for HBC. In its strides toward mighty morphin' into a lifestyle company, WeWork recently opened a gym and wellness space, covered in the NEW YORK TIMES under the banner headline, "We Work. We Live. We Work Out. Eventually We Die." Funny. I'm convinced it was written by DARIA MORGENDORFFER. As far as retail goes, it seems that HBC, in its triage, has forgotten the customer. It owns some highly visible names in retail: SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, GILT, and LORD & TAYLOR. Why not take the opportunity to try out some radical retail? Nothing to lose but real estate... Photogrammetry for fashion... Gold and stardust... Here's something for you: smash face into bread. That's right. Face, meet bread. A stunning variety of breads. Are you supposed to eat it afterward? Auction it for a cause? Is this gluten free? Breadface (of @breadfaceblog fame) wears SIDNEY GARBER, REPOSSI, and CHANEL while—wait for it—smashing face into bread.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
disclosure
The Washington Post
The utter meaninglessness of the fashion industry’s shunning of Terry Richardson
by Robin Givhan
A belated ban of a notorious perv came not because his behavior was terrible but because it was no longer cool.
10 Magazine
What Becomes A Rebel Most? Anders Christian Madsen Talks to Rick Owens
by Anders Christian Madsen
"I always detect a flinch in people whenever I respond to the age-old question, 'What was your favourite show this season?' 'Rick Owens,' I tell them. It’s the spontaneous answer I’ve given almost exclusively over the past few years, ever since Owens became illuminated by a different kind of light."
SURFACE
Meet the Next-Wave Designers Carrying on Yves Saint Laurent’s Legacy in Marrakech
by Cynthia Rosenfeld
The opening of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech is putting the spotlight back on a cultural treasure trove.
WWD
Terry Richardson Falls Foul of Condé Nast in the U.S. and the U.K.
by Lorelei Marfil
Richardson can no longer work with Condé Nast titles.
Fashionista
How Tracy Sun Went From Studying Neuroscience to Launching Poshmark
by Maria Bobila
The fashion-tech entrepreneur discusses the challenges of switching careers and growing her company in the competitive online resale space.
i-D Magazine
discover eboy, the 90s net art collective that inspired comme des garçons
by Antwaun Sargent
Rei Kawakubo’s most recent collection pulled from the group’s archives of pixelated cities.
The New York Times
Lord & Taylor Building, Icon of New York Retail, to Become WeWork Headquarters
by Michael J. De La Merced and Michael Corkery
As the flagship store shrinks, the deal is an acknowledgment that even grand shopping spaces of old may now be more valuable as offices.
The Business of Fashion
Hudson Bay Company’s Richard Baker Speaks on Latest Strategic Move
by Lauren Sherman
The Canadian retail-real estate group’s mastermind explains why selling the historic Lord & Taylor building to WeWork Property Advisors, combined with an equity investment, will free up the company to continue executing its ‘transformation plan.'
Hyperallergic
The Hidden Labor Behind the Luxurious Colors of Purple and Indigo
by Sarah E. Bond
The history of Tyrian purple, indigo, and other dyes is a fascinating reminder of how we forget the people and the labor behind the products we use everyday.
Racked
The Truth About Congresswoman Frederica Wilson's Cowboy Hats
by Nadra Nittle
Since Florida Congresswoman Frederica Wilson blasted President Trump's handling of a call to a Gold Star widow last week, the lawmaker has been threatened and slandered. And like many women who dare to question authority, Wilson's appearance has come under scrutiny -- specifically her fashion sense.
recurrence
The New York Times
When a Man Needs a New Suit
by Jon Caramanica
Our critic, who prides himself on not needing to wear a suit, explores the options at Brioni and Boglioli.
Blamo!
Interview: Jesse Thorn (Put This On, Bullseye)
by Jeremy Kirkland and Jesse Thorn
My guest this week Jesse Thorn. Jesse is a lot of things; he’s the host of Bullseye (NPR), founder of the acclaimed menswear website, Put This On, and he even runs his own podcast network, Maximum Fun.
South China Morning Post
Sacai and Undercover in twin show at Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo
by Giselle Go
Chitose Abe and Jun Takahashi put on debut joint spring-summer 2018 show in Tokyo, echoing Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo’s collaboration in 1991.
The Fashion Law
As North Korea Continues to Boost its Imports, a Look at the Role of Luxury in the Hermit Kingdom
While roughly forty percent of the population in North Korea -- or about 24 million people -- lives below the poverty line in the nation’s countryside and lacks proper medical care and medication, in Pyongyang, the capital of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, there is a vastly different picture of life, one that saw the country’s elite import $666 million worth of luxury goods last year.
The New Yorker
The Forever 21 Heirs Attempt to Cash In on the Korean Skin-Care Craze
by Sheila Marikar
With their new chain, Riley Rose, Linda and Esther Chang are betting that millennials will go to the mall for K-beauty products, as long as it’s Instagrammable.
Grailed
Sneaker Design's Rising Star: A Look at Salehe Bembury
by Mikelle Street
Watching a slow, but gradual, tidal shift is a pretty amazing process. In fashion it’s sort of a thing that happens every few generations; one slate of heads are gradually moved out for another. You see it in magazines, in the ambassadors and, of course, on the design end. In menswear design, this latest wave has seen a slate of creatives who are influenced by—or even previously worked in—what we collectively call “the culture” or the industry refers to as “the street.”
Dangerous Minds
Meet the woman who photographed Frida Kahlo, the Kennedys, Elizabeth Taylor, fashion & war
by Paul Gallagher
Fashion of a woman, wearing a long gown, floating in water, Weeki Wachee Springs, Florida, 1947. Toni Frissell (1907-88) was one of the greatest photographers of the 20th-century. During her lifetime, Frissell produced a staggering amount of diverse work including fashion photography, photojournalism, and portraiture.
Heroine
X-Girl: For Irreverent Cool Girls of the 90s (and Today)
by Emily Manning
Beyond the Sonic Youth, Kim Gordon made a profound, if unexpected, impact on fashion with her downtown label, X-Girl. The musician and visual artist co-founded the line with stylist Daisy von Furth in 1993. Though this original duo helmed the brand for only five years, their intelligent, irreverent approach to creating cool, affordable clothing is still keenly felt today.
Harper's Bazaar
The Dress That Changed My Life
by Linda Evangelista
Linda Evangelista recalls the dress that she'll never forget.
T Magazine
A Textile Designer’s Calming, Sunlit Life
by Nancy Hass
Amid the bustle of Marrakesh, Valerie Barkowski has found - and restored - her space.
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