Chaos is favorable to creativity.
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Mixed message clothing, 2007. (Lenore Edman)
Wednesday - November 02, 2016 Wed - 11/02/16
rantnrave:// JEAN-CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC is known for irreverence and the placement of explosive pop culture on the runway. That kind of playfulness and wit is now de rigeur. He’s an OG as far as pop art x fashion collaborations go, and his name is often synonymous with this coat from the ARCHE DE NOÉ collection, crafted from teddy bears. Would love to meet the conservator who’s taking care of that one. Castelbajac’s interview with TREY TAYLOR leads with an amazing anecdote about how he joined the philosophical society LA PHALÈNE in the year 1970: "I crushed my watch and I yelled, ‘Time is dead!’ Then they said, ‘Okay, we'll take you in.’” Join the club…Sustainability has not been a trend for NIKE; more like a swerving path of changing practices. Starts and stops. Supplier lists. Inert gases. And reconfiguring enough company practices to arrive at the realization that, when not enacted in defense, sustainability can lead to actual innovation. And that can lead to whole multitudes of competitive advantage. Easy to grip if you’re as large and as ingrained in public consciousness as Nike… H&M tweeted its supplier list Monday. Many, many tweets ago. Companies already use sophisticated PLM software to track products. Is it that much further a cognitive leap to imagine we could leverage PLM for consumer-facing information? How much transparency will customers push for? Next stop, garments’ supplier factories are printed on inside care labels, or use blockchain. Who will groan louder, suppliers or shoppers? (?) (??)… Love SHOWSTUDIO’s TUMBLR takeovers. This week SAM MCKNIGHT is piloting the ship, and he’s sharing some GR8 '90s magazine spreads, coupled with intriguing commentary. The archive lives…ICYMI, ROBOTS READING VOGUE, from YALE libraries. A little n-gram search for your trouble… Sew what you like, in LONDON.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
empire
Interview Magazine
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Reflects on His Past
by Trey Taylor
For a man whose double poncho inspired Andy Warhol to say, "Oh no, who am I going to wear that with?" he's maintained a jovial approach to creativity, tongue firmly planted in cheek.
Jezebel
A Brief History of Why Umpires Wear Suits
by Julianne Escobedo Shepherd
Last week, on the brisk October evening that marked Game 1 of the World Series, I sat at a Brooklyn sports bar inside a galleria and noticed that a man on the field was wearing a suit.
BBC
Untangling where your hair extensions really come from
by Kirstie Brewer
From wigs to weaves and hair extensions, there is a vast market for human hair and often it doesn't come from where you think.
Business of Fashion
Just Fix It: How Nike Learned to Embrace Sustainability
by Kate Abnett
Chief sustainability officer Hannah Jones talks to BoF about Nike's journey from sweatshop scandals to embracing sustainability as a tool for business innovation.
Co.Design
Tesla Is Betting On Scarcity, Not Luxury
by Mark Wilson
With products like Solar Roof and Powerwall, Tesla envisions balancing a world with fewer resources.
Vogue
Ruth Finley, Fashion's Original Calendar Girl, Is Getting the Documentary Treatment
by Lilah Ramzi
For 70 years, Finley operated her business just so--plotting out the week, printing and distributing schedules in neat red booklets before the CFDA acquired the calendar.
Forbes
Home Delivery Plays a Critical Role in Omni-channel Fulfillment
by Steve Banker
The most dynamic form of routing is focused on e-commerce home deliveries. Ken Wood, the EVP of Product Management at Descartes, said “traditional retailers want to be competitive with the Amazon’s of the world."
The Daily Beast
Is Ethical Fashion This Year’s Fad?
by Brian S. Riordan
As more and more brands launch with socially responsible spins to their business, the big question is whether it’s just marketing buzz or truly authentic.
Korean Experiences
The World's First Official Handbag Museum
by Vivienne Mackie
Now here’s something very different: A bag designer’s dream museum, a shrine to the everyday (and often coveted) accessory.
The Fashion Law
Reshoring Fashion Manufacturing: Will it Live up to the Hype?
by Gabrielle Turnquest
While the United Stated continues to be a major participant in the $3 trillion global fashion industry, U.S.-based fashion manufacturing - those involving apparel, shoes, and accessories - has faced a steady decline. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics employment in apparel manufacturing has decreased by more than 80 percent between 1990 and 2011.
marquetry
Architectural Digest
The Obama Family's Stylish Private World Inside the White House
by Mayer Rus
Decorated by Michael S. Smith for the Obamas, the White House’s private quarters are as worldly and relaxed as the family that calls them home
Literary Hub
Stray Thoughts on Kafka, Loneliness, and Clothing-Optional Retreats
by Peter Orner
Peter Orner wanders from Prague to the redwoods.
Fashionista
Will You Start Shopping on Instagram?
by Maria Bobila
The platform is developing and testing new features for brand and retail accounts.
WWD
Shopping Is Coming to Instagram
by Maghan McDowell
Twenty brands will test a feature that adds product details and outside links to images.
Vogue
Beth Ditto Debunks Plus-Size Myths With Her New Collection
by Aimee Farrell
A first look at Beth Ditto’s bold and covetable new plus-size collection.
Racked
In Consideration of Your Most Swagless Homie
by Cam Wolf
What does it all mean?
CNET
Insanely heavy blue jeans stand up all on their own
by Amanda Kooser
Meet what may be the world's heaviest pair of jeans, a 38-ounce fashion monster that is more armor than pants.
Racked
I'm Ditching the Suit, But Keeping the Trouser
by Skylar Bergl
One man’s journey to his wardrobe staple.
Business of Fashion
How Newspaper Supplements Took On Fashion Magazines
by Kate Abnett
While commercial success among fashion magazines is uneven, supplements are a steady oasis of profitability. How are they doing it?
Fashionista
How DIY Fashion Collective Flying Solo Is Taking Direct-to-Consumer Retail Offline
by Maria Bobila
This New York City-based storefront is run by 45 independent designers (and counting).
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"They Reminisce Over You (T.R.O.Y.)"
Pete Rock & CL Smooth
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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