You must live the present, that’s the only thing you know. You can’t do anything about the past and don’t know what will happen in the future. I never look back. Aging happens, and so does illness and death, so why dwell on it? I’m 96 years old but in my head I’m four and a half. Whatever! | | | | Aerial views. Chanel Haute Couture A/W 2001, Paris, July 10, 2001.
(Francis Petit/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “You must live the present, that’s the only thing you know. You can’t do anything about the past and don’t know what will happen in the future. I never look back. Aging happens, and so does illness and death, so why dwell on it? I’m 96 years old but in my head I’m four and a half. Whatever!”
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| | rantnrave:// Fashion advertising has long been a flashpoint for controversy. CALVIN KLEIN's first book, released on Oct. 10, revisits some of the company's most provocative ad campaigns. There are some great interviews with Klein coinciding with the release of the book, and it's fascinating to look back not only at the ads themselves, but the context in which they sparked so much outrage. It brings to mind other examples of public anxiety from the era, like ICE-T's amazing appearance defending hip-hop on OPRAH in 1990. Some of the best writings I've come across on fashion and advertising were written by the late RICHARD MARTIN. He wrote this article on a controversial Calvin Klein campaign from 1995, once the subject of an investigation by the US Justice Department. Martin suggests that the nerve hit by these ads had as much to do with class as sexuality: "[Klein] led us away from fashion grandeur to trailer-park trash, the rude and surly kids of their own abject world. No one may admit that there is class, much less a lower class, in supposedly classless America." It's been at issue recently in public fascination with PAUL MANAFORT's $1.3 million expenditure on clothing, scrutiny of his taste, and comments from BREITBART's fashion critic about not living in "a grand apartment in the West Village." Martin goes further than hot-button issues, suggesting that people expect security and comfort from fashion—today's manifestation is seen in everything from the wellness movement to cozycore. Were the Klein ads as provocative as the outrage would suggest? What part does controversy play in our fascination with them, revisiting them in 9-and-a-half-pound retrospective books? Through dramatizations of sex, class, protest, and violence, fashion ads often confront unspoken truths. Do they represent freedom of expression? Harmful stereotypes? FashionSET: Shock, Inspire, and Sell: Controversial Fashion Ads... BARRY MICHAEL COOPER interviewed THE ROOTS' TARIQ TROTTER, and it's a wonderful and personal story about PHILADELPHIA style... The V&A's upcoming exhibition will address fashion and the environment... HERMÈS expands production. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | Los Angeles Times |
| Suddenly, after 15 years, something comes between us and our Calvins. And it's a cold reality. An angry plebiscite contravenes fashion's sheer audacity in the decision to withdraw the Calvin Klein Jeans advertising featuring young people. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| A fashion philosophy informed by a childhood spent on horses. | | |
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 | Racked |
| With industry sales down, jewelers in the newly-hip downtown LA have to adapt to survive. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| John Binder has a bone to pick with his fellow fashion chroniclers. “Mostly their attitude is you can be with us, but you have to believe all the things that we believe,” he said. “If you don’t, you’re just not chic enough for us.” From the vantage of a professional outlier, and ultraconservative at that, he may not be far off the mark. | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| The countries have agreed to restore ties after a year-long dispute over the deployment of a US anti-missile system, which has been devastating to some Korean businesses that rely on Chinese consumers. | | |
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 | The Cut |
| Benjamin Shine is New York’s foremost fabric sculptor. | | |
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 | Hyperallergic |
| There is something very troubling about what the Viking “Allah” story reveals about the relationship between news media and experts. | | |
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 | The Washington Post |
| His wardrobe -- and the millions he spent on it -- tell you everything you need to know about power, 1980s-style. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| In addition to victimizing women -- by way of ad campaigns and editorials, alike -- fashion thrives on the practice of objectifying women. | | |
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 | British Vogue |
| I am not often ashamed of fashion and the eternal search for the new that my profession involves. But looking at the artistic, timeless and magical clothes designed by Mariano Fortuny a century ago, left me, as a fashion editor, filled with shame and chagrin. | | |
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 | The Guardian |
| From a 1780s waistcoat to a bioluminescent GM dress, exhibition traces interaction and celebrates sustainable yet desirable fashion. | | |
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 | Garage Magazine |
| Christopher Bailey is out, and newish C.E.O. Marco Gobbetti is ready to get experimental. But who’s experimental enough for him? | | |
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 | Buro 24/7 Singapore |
| As Norman Tan found out at Uniqlo’s first-ever apparel expo in New York City -- co-hosted with fabric technology company, Toray Industries -- it’s a lot more than meets the eye. | | |
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 | Futurity |
| "This is a completely electronic-free design, which means you can iron the smart fabric or put it in the washer and dryer." | | |
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 | Grailed |
| It begins like a Kid Rock song: in a college town outside Detroit, a Michigan-born engineer runs a store selling Carhartt jackets and Wolverine boots. It ends like Tokyo Fashion Week: they're right next to the Kapital. Such is the charm of Ann Arbor's Today Clothing. | | |
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 | Retail Dive |
| The store borrows from the showroom concept and is all about experience, as Nordstrom embraces the spirit of innovation to attract new demographics and better compete. | | |
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 | The Korea Times |
| Clothing manufacturer Nine Mode President Ok Sung-seok said he and other factory owners at the joint industrial park in Gaeseong, North Korea, are determined to resume business there if it reopens. | | |
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 | South China Morning Post |
| Launching in Hong Kong this week, Christian Louboutin’s ultra-limited new shoe collection might use original fabrics from Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s archives, but it still has all his signatures -- including the spikes. | | |
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 | Co.Design |
| “While brands around the world strive to create ads that make people want a certain product, MUJI sends out a message of emptiness.” | | |
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| The Guardian |
| 1 November 1997: Hollywood and the world of fashion have long enjoyed a close and mutually beneficial relationship. | | |
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