The new generation are completely different to the past. They ask for more information, they are more personal in their point of view. My son looks to see if the T-shirt is cotton, where the cotton is from. There is a completely different audience with different values and ideas about what is good and not good.
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"Two cyberpunks." UK, late 1990s.
(Universal Images Group/Getty Images)
Monday - November 06, 2017 Mon - 11/06/17
rantnrave:// Will the future of retail show how products make the journey to stores? Amid stories on KERING's sustainability initiatives and a CFDA-DHL study on the "human-centered supply chain," this ASSOCIATED PRESS story on unpaid Turkish garment workers circulated widely on Friday. At ZARA stores in ISTANBUL, workers had attached tags to the clothes with messages of protest. One tag read, “I made this item you are going to buy, but I didn’t get paid for it." That's one way to connect with the customer, and it's not a great look for the companies involved. Thank you to THE FASHION LAW for providing more context on the situation. The dispute has been ongoing since July 2016. Per TFL, the workers were once employed by the BRAVO TEKSTIL factory—which supplied MANGO, NEXT, and ZARA—and have been legally entitled to back wages and severance that's gone unpaid for over a year. In a statement to TFL, an INDITEX spokesperson said the company is "committed to finding a swift solution." Resisting the urge to make a joke about fast fashion here. Reminds me of a scene from SILICON VALLEY where "ACTION JACK" BARKER pays a visit to a supplier factory for HOOLI phones. Will there come a time when squeezing suppliers ceases to work out on the sales floor? The factory floor? Do customers care? As outsourcing in the garment industry becomes a cultural issue for customers, are companies measuring the risk to their businesses? Competition is moving to capitalize on the fallout. Better supply chains are being marketed directly to customers by companies like EVERLANE, GIRLFRIEND, NAADAM, THE REFORMATION, and more. When will it be too little, too late for companies not sensing the shift? There's a three-part series on YOUTUBE featuring testimony from the Turkish workers (with subtitles in English)... I've been enjoying SHOWSTUDIO's TUMBLR takeover by LOU STOPPARD, featuring images from her book "Fashion Together," which lends insight into the collaborative process of some of fashion's most celebrated creators: designers, jewelers, photographers, milliners, muses, and more... In a coincidence of private label announcements, you can now dress yourself in apparel lines from MR. PORTER and US-based grocery chain KROGER... RIP fashion photographer VIRGINIA THOREN.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
stunt
New Republic
What MoMA Doesn't Get About Fashion
by Josephine Livingstone
A sweeping new show is a limp defense of clothing design's place in the art world.
Quartz
Fast fashion was inspired by Europe’s inability to mimic Indian garb
by Blake Smith
The modern fashion system, with 'seasons' of changing trends conceived in a Western design studio, was born as France's answer to Indian cloth.
The Fashion Law
Zara Comes Under Fire as Notes Surface, Revealing Failure to Pay Garment Workers
by TFL
Shoppers in at least one of Zara's outposts in Instanbul have reportedly found unusual tags affixed to the garments, which include pleas from Turkish workers, who say they have not been paid for working to manufacture the Spanish fast fashion giant's garments and accessories.
Garage Magazine
What Are You Saying Under All Those Clothes?
by Rachel Tashjian
What happens when a fashion photographer throws clothing and body image concerns out the window?
Quartz
Nike's bestselling Huarache only exists thanks to a disobedient employee
by Marc Bain
The Huarache's story, as told in the new book 'Sneakers,' is a lesson in giving unusual new ideas a chance to succeed.
Dazed Digital
Watching 'Hackers' in 2017 -- what happened to all the anarchy?
by Brittany Newell
The 1995 cult classic depicts a vision of techies as stylish, punk and sexy -- over twenty years later that aesthetic and attitude is nowhere to be seen.
The Hairpin
Why Don't Pants Go All The Way Down To The Floor Anymore? An Investigation
by Silvia Killingsworth
We need to talk about cold ankles.
Glossy
How Kering's sustainability strategy brings its supply chain up to speed
by Hilary Milnes
Kering's sustainability strategy hinges on the company's ability to bring its network of suppliers up to speed. To do so, the company's head of sustainability, Marie-Claire Daveu, has put practices in place that use communication and patience to get suppliers to reduce waste and eliminate pollution.
CFDA
Laying Out Fashion's New Supply Chain Vision
by Cal McNeil
On Monday morning, a pioneering study exploring why and how the fashion supply chain is changing was released to a select group of press and designers at NeueHouse in New York City. The CFDA, alongside DHL, its official logistics partner, and in collaboration with Accenture, CFDA's innovation partner, developed the study titled "The Human-Centered Supply Chain - Delivered by DHL."
Los Angeles Times
Fashion in L.A. marches to the beat of its own drum, and now the world is listening
by Melissa Magsaysay
Jeans and T-shirts aren't the only fashion looks coming out of free-spirited Los Angeles anymore. More designers are creating sophisticated styles and upping the fashion game in the West Coast city. Here are nine to watch.
fanchant
The Business of Fashion
From Gucci to Calvin Klein, Where Top Fashion Brands Recruit
by Lauren Sherman
Feeder programmes at key schools may be the secret to landing an entry-level position at a top fashion house.
WWD
Venture Operating Company Resonance Builds Small Fashion Brands
by Tracey Greenstein
Resonance enables fashion designers to build businesses by providing an engine for small brands.
Deutsche Welle
Jil Sander fashion exhibition shows off Germany's influential 'Queen of Less'
by Courtney Tenz
A new Frankfurt exhibition traces Jil Sander's career as a top influential modern fashion designer. Through nine different angles, it considers how her quintessential German minimalism has impacted style up to today.
The New York Times
Who Will Mourn Teen Vogue?
by Bonnie Wertheim
Before it refashioned itself as a voice of resistance, the magazine was a hub for young women who took style seriously.
University of Washington
How to store information in your clothes invisibly, without electronics
by Jennifer Langston
A new type of smart fabric developed at the University of Washington could pave the way for jackets that store invisible passcodes and open the door to your apartment or office.
Highsnobiety
Terry Richardson: Is Fashion Hypocritical for Dropping Him?
by Aleks Eror
Aleks Eror explores whether the fashion industry is guilty of hypocrisy after banning infamous photographer Terry Richardson.
WWD
The Making of a Celebrity Sneaker Deal
by Aria Hughes
Ahead of Future releasing the Furykaze sneaker, WWD explores the partnership, which helped revive Reebok’s Classic line, and how these celebrity collaborations have evolved.
Sixth Tone
The Alibaba Warehouse Where Fake Goods Go to Die
by Zhang Chenyi
Armed with big data and vast budgets, the e-commerce giant is fighting an endless game of cat and mouse with crooked sellers.
Glossy
Pintrill's Doni Gitlin: Streetwear isn't as exclusive as it used to be for women
by Bethany Biron
Streetwear, a notorious boys' club, is spending more time in the spotlight of mainstream fashion as heavyweight Supreme rises to billion-dollar brand status and retailers like Bergdorf Goodman carry inventory from Kith. But is women's streetwear rising along with it? In this series, we'll ask women inside streetwear to weigh in on the current standing and potential for their category.
Retail Dive
For Ralph Lauren, a 'faint light' at the end of the tunnel
by Daphne Howland
The company's sales declines were mostly from its planned retreat from department stores and slowed discounts, but it still has work to do when it comes to its product strategy.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Eigen Schuld"
Black Acid
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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