High fashion doesn’t have time to do research anymore—what the designer bases things on is too far away and isn’t derived from real experience. Everything is fake. It’s one of the most cynical and interesting things about menswear for me. It’s really a contradiction.
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"The Belles." Trying out for an Indiana University musical club called the Belles. Bloomington, 1954.
(Nina Leen/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images)
Wednesday - November 15, 2017 Wed - 11/15/17
rantnrave:// T-shirts are some of the most visible garments of our time. They form bonds; they mark our place in the world—concerts, vacations, political campaigns. They’re egalitarian and comfortable, the ultimate underwear as outerwear. There are luxe versions and eco versions and 3-pack staple versions, sometimes all three. They come a long way through a global system of commodity exchange and production, yet they feel as if plucked off of a vine: familiar, routine. Plain versions have come to be referred to simply as “blanks,” waiting for our logos or political slogans or favorite TV show. Endlessly versatile in their customization, they’ve become faceless, suited to whatever purpose a screen-printer, tie-dyer, or DIY-er can provoke in them. They can broadcast. As a blank canvas for identity and self-expression, their potential for any message—as long as it's you—means that there's no stable meaning for the t-shirt. Those are the blanks we fill in. This story by JASMINE SANDERS connects t-shirts to death, mourning, race, spectacle, and commerce in the form of airbrushed R.I.P. tees. Made to remember loved ones who died too soon, their ties to graffiti and hip-hop have garnered wider attention in pop culture—a mix of sincerity, irony, and nostalgia. It opens up questions about how style gets swept up into trends, social media spectacle, and profit motives. Wonderful story... Loved ROBIN GIVHAN's piece on how LIL' KIM's manicure made its way to MOMA. It was a money manicure, originally made with real bills—then fake ones—after a reminder came through from the US government. The woman who designed the nails, BERNADETTE THOMPSON, helped bring nail art to the mainstream. Beauty rituals are incredible markers of culture... Briefs: WARBY PARKER is using IPHONE X facial mapping to suggest which glasses might fit... SIMON SPURR returns as creative director of EIDOS... BARBIE gets a hijab... WALMART partners with LORD & TAYLOR.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
gully
The New York Times
Memorial T-Shirts Create a Little Justice, a Tiny Peace
by Jasmine Sanders
On the South Side of Chicago and around the U.S., memorial T-shirts are a way to remember, to celebrate -- and to indict.
Racked
Brands Send Me More Free Stuff Than You Can Imagine
by Cheryl Wischhover
And it makes doing my job as a beauty editor more complicated than you might think.
The Business of Fashion
The 'Made in Indonesia' Opportunity
by Bandana Tewari
BoF investigates how the tropical islands of Bali, Java and Sumatra have become manufacturing hotspots for global fashion brands like H&M, Calvin Klein and Uniqlo.
The Washington Post
How Lil' Kim's most memorable manicure ended up in the Museum of Modern Art
by Robin Givhan
Bernadette Thompson cut up a dollar bill and made acrylic-tip history. Then she pushed nail art into the mainstream.
AnOther
When Raf Simons Brought Colour & Volume to Jil Sander S/S11
by Alexander Fury
Haute couture shapes in neon-bright nylon and polyester blends: Raf Simons’ S/S11 collection for Jil Sander marked a seismic shift in the fashion industry, writes Alexander Fury.
The Telegraph
The women behind Chanel on how the ghost of Gabrielle influences their work
by Sarah Royce-Greensill
If behind every great man is a great woman, Karl Lagerfeld’s status as the most powerful man in fashion is secure.
Dazed Digital
'The Face' staff remember some of its most iconic moments
by Emma Elizabeth Davidson
To celebrate the release of ‘The Story of the Face’, we speak to some of the team members of the groundbreaking publication about their favourite archive images.
New Republic
The Cause and Consequences of the Retail Apocalypse
by David Dayen
Private equity firms overburdened businesses with debt, and now workers are paying the price. Will policymakers do anything about it?
Stratechery
Stitch Fix and the Senate
by Ben Thompson
There was an interesting line of commentary around the news that Stitch Fix, the personalized clothing e-commerce company, was going to IPO: these numbers are incredible!
Australian Broadcasting Corp.
A short history of the high heel
by Emma Wynne
Where did the high heel come from and why was it invented?
graffiti
GQ
How the Man Who Keeps Bergdorf Goodman's Men's Store So Stylish Dresses for Work
by Max Berlinger
Fashion director Bruce Pask talks shopping, his closet staples, and why we should all be ready for big pants.
Highsnobiety
Noah and MR PORTER Release Collaboration Collection
by Jian DeLeon
MR PORTER Buying Director Sam Lobban speaks with Noah's Brendon Babenzien about their new capsule collection, and how to wear a suit on your own terms.
The Fashion Law
Is Fashion's Endless Gifting a Potential Haven for Tax Evasion?
What about the smaller instances of tax side-stepping that could be happening with some regularity in fashion in connection with the incessant practice of gifting?
GQ Style
Dead & Company Launched Their Fall Tour at MSG, and Here's What People Are Wearing
by Mordechai Rubinstein
Mordechai Rubenstein-AKA Mister Mort-found the most original Deadhead style in and around the Garden at Sunday’s show.
Highsnobiety
How Hip-Hop Made Metal Fashion -- and How Pop Culture Killed It
by Douglas Greenwood
From 'Yeezus' to Vetements, we break down the modern history of metal fashion and hip-hop intersecting, and how it all came to permeate pop culture.
British Vogue
Rendez-Vogue: Erdem Moralioglu
by Anders Christian Madsen
Erdem Moralioglu tells Anders Christian Madsen about his ultimate foray into household-name fashion super fame, and the life and career that led to it.
Glossy
Richemont's long road to sales growth strategy in Asia
by Hilary Milnes
After a concentrated effort to buy back excess inventory in Asia, Richemont is seeing big growth pay off in the region, where brands like Cartier and Piaget are testing online and in-store concepts to appeal to a modern luxury consumer in markets like Hong Kong and China.
Flaunt Magazine
Wilhelmina CEO Bill Wackermann: A Q&A on 50 Years of Defining Beauty
From Victoria's Secrets dreams to magazine cover hopes, Wilhelmina has helped many to winning careers.
Fast Company
Fashion Startups Aspire To Be The Anti-Bonobos
by Elizabeth Segran
NastyGal & Bonobos were once the stuff of founders’ dreams. But as we head into 2018, startups believe landing big funding & scaling fast are recipes for disaster.
Bloomberg
Soon You May Be Renting Your Work Clothes
by Kim Bhasin
Rent the Runway started out catering to women wanting one night of high fashion. Now its doubling down on subscriptions for the whole work week.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"愛がなくちゃね"
矢野顕子 (Akiko Yano)
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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