I have about a hundred white shirts in my wardrobe. On the one hand, the periodical revision of the outlines of the white shirt is a study in shape, workmanship and quality. On the other hand, these revisions are echoes of a changing zeitgeist. You have to refresh a classic like the white shirt all the time. | | | | Giorgio Armani with senior staff, Milan, May 1979.
(David Lees/The LIFE Images Collection/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “I have about a hundred white shirts in my wardrobe. On the one hand, the periodical revision of the outlines of the white shirt is a study in shape, workmanship and quality. On the other hand, these revisions are echoes of a changing zeitgeist. You have to refresh a classic like the white shirt all the time.”
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| | rantnrave:// Sad news that art/culture/fashion platform BULLETT MEDIA is shuttering. Editor-in-chief IDIL TABANCA's farewell letter is heartfelt and funny, citing an unwillingness to continue in a media environment strained by the demands of algo feeds and quantity over quality. Titled "Conscious Uncoupling," it opens some questions about the future of what Tabanca labels "niche" media. I think about this often too, as many smaller, independent titles are gobbled up by larger companies or do little more than function as content mills for press releases. Luxury companies that have a stake in continually establishing fashion as a legitimate cultural form (particularly those with large advertising budgets), may need to take a better look at long-term strategies. It's all too easy to point out the failures and slow-footedness of legacy media, but some counterintuitive thinking is in order here. Should there be better commercial support of publications that create a diverse and thriving ecosystem of stories about fashion (and thus, companies and the people behind them?). If the industry could resist focusing on the impending doom, there'd be better room for creative thinking. And there are plenty of titles still doing great work: SYSTEM, 032C, CABANA, 1GRANARY, THE GENTLEWOMAN, 10 MAGAZINE, DOCUMENT, BON, and SURFACE are but a few. Pour one out for Bullett and have a look through some of their past features. Here's an interview and video I enjoyed featuring emerging designer and PARSONS alum JI WON CHOI. On the subject of magazines, former TIME writer JOE NOCERA wrote a nice essay on TIME INC's sale to MEREDITH... SHAUNE LEANE's amazing jewelry for the late LEE ALEXANDER MCQUEEN are headed to a SOTHEBY'S sale in collaboration with LONDON's KERRY TAYLOR AUCTIONS. Leane's pieces are some of the most stunning pieces created for the runway in recent years. I'm wondering how many corporate archives and museum collections will be competing with private bidders. Would you rather pieces go to a collection held in the public trust, a well-funded corporate archive, or an enthusiast collector? It's all up for grabs... Briefs: MEGHAN MARKLE and setting an agenda for royal style... Here's what the husband-and-wife duo formerly behind HELMUT LANG are up to: a namesake brand called COLOVOS. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | The New York Times |
| Victoria’s Secret and "Love" magazine wrestle with the issues of balancing lingerie and lasciviousness. | | |
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 | BULLETT |
| It's only fitting to use the term made popular during BULLETT 's heyday, circa 2014, by Gwenyth Paltrow's marriage counselor to announce our own split from 'the Industry.' Rest assured, our demise-not unlike the Hollywood couples'-shall be acquiescent and graceful (or will it? See last paragraph). | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| "My mom thought I was crazy; she didn't really understand why I wanted to quit my salaried job to pursue my not-paying YouTube channel. It sounded absurd." | | |
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 | The Business of Fashion |
| Together, Shaun Leane and Lee Alexander McQueen pushed boundaries and changed the perception of what jewellery or fashion could be. Now, Leane's archive is up for sale at Sotheby's. | | |
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 | SSENSE |
| How Marine Serre catapulted herself from a subcultural student life in Brussels to the epicenter of fashion in Paris. | | |
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 | WWD |
| The initiatives mark the first steps of his label’s planned expansion under its new partnership with the billionaire Pinault family. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| The Spice Girl turned fashion designer, who introduced her brand in 2008, will use the cash to enter new product categories and expand retail operations. | | |
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 | Teen Vogue |
| “The dress was dreamlike and it made me feel like a princess.” | | |
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 | The Times |
| What do you do when everyone is clamouring for a part of you -- and the same part at that? "Everyone wants the skeleton corset," says the jeweller Shaun Leane, who was one of Alexander McQueen's closest friends and collaborators. "They want the coiled corset, they want the crown of thorns, the porcupine ear cuffs, the mouthpiece." | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| Shortly before his death, we traveled to Azzedine Alaïa’s Paris studio for lunch, to talk about the importance of home. | | |
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 | Metro.co.uk |
| Let's stop waiting for them to do something about it, and help ourselves instead. | | |
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 | collectSPACE |
| An astronaut's wristwatch worn on board the Apollo 7 mission has been recovered by the Smithsonian decades after it went missing in Ecuador. The Omega Speedmaster used by Donn Eisele was tracked down with the help of space history enthusiasts. | | |
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| The Business of Fashion |
| Toxic mass merchants are making brands commoditised hostages in a high-speed chase to the bottom. But a new class of experiential retailers is rising. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| Musicians like Kanye West, Justin Bieber, and Rihanna are not the only ones banking on the modern day take on concert merchandise. | | |
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 | GQ |
| Only this time with less abs, cologne, and moose. | | |
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 | Jing Daily |
| Beijing has slashed tariffs on nearly 200 foreign, premium consumer goods, which many analysts believe will hurt the Chinese daigou market. | | |
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 | The Washington Post |
| Her clothing brand, which Trump continues to own, has refused to identify what factories in the country produce her goods. | | |
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 | The Telegraph |
| 'I wanted to make a no-shoe, basically - like walking barefoot,' says Hardy of the conception of that 20-year-old classic. 'A very simple sandal that any woman could wear, with a sole and a strap. I was looking at a drawing by an African tribe, a design the women used to paint on the houses, very graphic and beautiful. | | |
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 | Vanity Fair |
| New York media has finally had a look at Paul Thomas Anderson’s "Phantom Thread"--but we can’t say much about it yet. | | |
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 | recode |
| It’s always been hard for Katrina Lake’s company to raise money. | | |
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 | YouTube |
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