It looked very simple until I had to figure out a way to make it and then realized, My God, this is incredibly complicated. There is nothing more beautiful in all the arts than something that appears simple. And if you try to do any goddamn thing in your life, you know how impossible it is to achieve that effortless simplicity.
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"Karl Lagerfeld's first year at Chanel." Paris, March 5, 1984.
(John van Hasselt/Sygma/Getty Images)
Wednesday - November 29, 2017 Wed - 11/29/17
rantnrave:// Fashion's most beloved designers have an oft-repeated philosophy: they begin with cloth, and the way it drapes, holds shape, and changes with the movement of the body inspires how the garment is made. Remembering CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA in 1973, PAULINE DE ROTHSCHILD wrote of "stiffened silks layered in silver and gold so that you did not know which moved first, the dress or the light?" They're the foundation of fashion, yet as a whole, the industry for textiles hasn't been good for the planet. "A New Textiles Economy" report was released Tuesday by THE ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION in partnership with STELLA MCCARTNEY. The existence of a report like this shows that there are vast opportunities to offer better options to customers—and to let them in on it. Companies like NOAH and PATAGONIA have been successful sharing info on materials and fabrics with their customers. As sustainability continues to be a concern for fashion and retail, there's opportunity to share these stories with people buying the stuff. For middle- and lower-priced markets, using better textiles might be more of a challenge, but it's one companies should take on. Imagine offering a clear choice to customers who are done with compromise and looking for better options. This could be a great opportunity for private labels, if followed through and done with integrity... In brief: CHARLES JEFFREY's film has some amusing caricatures of fashion industry stereotypes. It's a teaser to promote an upcoming exhibition at NOW GALLERY in LONDON... A knitwear designer for CÉLINE brings her expertise to costume design for the big screen... LOEWE will show artisanal delights at SALONE DEL MOBILE in 2018.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
gazar
W Magazine
Daniel Day-Lewis Opens Up About What He'll Do After Acting: 'I’m Not Going to Stay Idle'
by Lynn Hirschberg
Around two years ago, as part of his preparation to play the couturier ­Reynolds Woodcock in Paul Thomas Anderson's latest film, Phantom Thread, Daniel Day-Lewis re-created a Balenciaga dress. At that time, Day-Lewis could not have predicted that Woodcock would be the last character he would play.
GQ
All Hail Kim Jones, King of Louis Vuitton
by Mark Anthony Green and Arnaud Pyvka
Kim Jones has breathed new energy into the venerated brand-and managed to pull off one of the collaborations of the century this year.
The Business of Fashion
Survival Mode for Japan’s Department Stores
by Melissa Twigg
Wave after wave of closures have hit the US and China, but Japan’s distinguished department stores were thought to be relatively safe from the era of 'new retail' - until now.
The Cut
On the Streets of Morocco, Traditional Styles Mix With Internet Trends
by Yoriyas Yassine Alaoui and Emilia Petrarca
Spotting djellabas and Converse in Marrakech and Casablanca.
T Magazine
A Film That Pays Homage to the Era of London Couture
by Alexander Fury
Paul Thomas Anderson’s “Phantom Thread” finds its inspiration in the eccentric figures of the 1950s -- and celebrates fashion’s enduring sense of fantasy.
The Guardian
Stella McCartney calls for overhaul of 'incredibly wasteful' fashion industry
by Sandra Laville
UK fashion designer backs Ellen MacArthur foundation campaign to stop the global fashion industry consuming a quarter of the world’s annual carbon budget by 2050.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation
A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion's future
by Ellen MacArthur and Stella McCartney
Fashion is a vibrant industry that employs hundreds of millions, generates significant revenues, and touches almost everyone, everywhere. Since the 20th century, clothing has increasingly been considered as disposable, and the industry has become highly globalised, with garments often designed in one country, manufactured in another and sold worldwide at an ever-increasing pace.
Rookie
Be Your Own Boss: Yael Aflalo
by Shriya Samavai
An interview with the creator of Reformation.
The Business of Fashion
Si Newhouse Memorialised
by Lauren Sherman
The Condé Nast owner, who passed away in October, was remembered on Monday night (Nov 27) for his robust curiosity and genuine passion for the family business.
Fashionista
When Will the Timing Be Right for the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show to Cast Plus Size Models?
by Tyler McCall
The 2017 Victoria's Secret Fashion Show is set to air Tuesday night (Nov 28), and the glittering wings and gauzy lingerie are guaranteed to get a reaction on social.
guetaria
Dazed Digital
A new line of The Cure merch is coming to DSM
by Calum Gordon
How a heartfelt email to frontman Robert Smith turned into a new capsule collection.
Quartzy
Unpublished Warhols may soon be for sale—on Calvin Klein underwear
by Marc Bain
Calvin Klein's creative head, Raf Simons, has never had any qualms about splashing great art across his clothes.
Glossy
With Aday investment, H&M hopes to 'leave stigma of fast fashion behind'
by Bethany Biron
After two years of investing primarily in technology startups, H&M's venture capital arm is now setting its sights on innovative e-commerce companies. The move is part of an effort to diversify the brand beyond fast fashion.
i-D Magazine
House of Aama, the Mother-Daughter Brand Exploring Southern Creole Spirituality
by Sarah Gooding
Akua Shabaka and Rebecca Henry celebrate the strength and resilience of African Americans with their new collection BLOODROOT.
Vestoj
Draping the Feminist Revolution
by Eugenia Paulicelli
On Rosa Genoni's Tanagra dress.
British Vogue
Couture Korea: From Far East to West Coast
by Suzy Menkes
San Francisco's Asian Art Museum looks at fashion now -- and then.
Footwear News
How Virgil Abloh’s Air Jordan 1 From ‘The Ten’ Almost Didn’t Happen
by Peter Verry
The 2017 FNAA Shoe of the Year winner talks how the Air Jordan 1 came to life.
The Fashion Law
Deal Dossier: The Battle Over Hermès
Just two hours before the entire world found out that LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton had been secretly building up a stake in Hermès in furtherance of what the Birkin bag-maker came to call a “hostile takeover,” Hermès' then-CEO Patrick Thomas was cycling through France’s rural Auvergne region on a Saturday completely unaware of the mega-storm that had been quietly brewing and was just mere moments away from striking. 
WWD
The Meghan Markle Halo Effect Helps Lift Sales for Canadian Brands Line, Birks
by Rosemary Feitelberg
Meghan Markle’s belted coat was a freebie gifted to the “Suits” actress from the Canadian company Line.
Retail Dive
Meet the winners and losers of Black Friday 2017
by Corinne Ruff
Here’s how Best Buy, Macy’s, J.C. Penney, Amazon and others fared over the blockbuster holiday shopping weekend.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Metal"
Gary Numan
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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