I think people are still tremendously sentimental about their clothes, but what we've lost is an appreciation of construction, textiles, how things are made... That's what I'm trying to retrieve with this exhibition, so that people can understand that yes, it looks really pretty, and it's a Dior, but what is it about that garment, who worked on it, how did it get to be there?
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Bernard Arnault (center left) and Christian LaCroix (center right) on the day of LaCroix's haute couture debut. Paris, Feb. 3, 1987.
(Alexis Duclos/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images)
Thursday - November 30, 2017 Thu - 11/30/17
rantnrave:// STELLA MCCARTNEY has been placing sustainability and environmental awareness at the core of her namesake label since founding it, 50/50, with KERING (then PPR) in 2001. The label has been savvy about which aspects of its environmental efforts to reveal and which to let go quietly unspoken. As customers have a desire—and an imminent need—to make better choices, companies will face challenges in how to own and advocate sustainability practices. I agree that we should find a new word to describe the mindful, environmentally aware practices that are necessary for long-term survival of the industry. As for sustainable luxury, it's fascinating to see how the conversation has changed. In CATHY HORYN's profile of McCartney from 2012, McCartney's husband, ALASDHAIR WILLIS, said that her values were "absolutely relevant to the times" and that "other brands are just beginning to catch on." That has been proven correct. And McCartney has played a leading role in bringing wider awareness to the industry. There are clear projections about dwindling future resources, so groups like KERING have financial reasons to look ahead. As McCartney's label marks sixteen years, it's expanding into high-profile partnerships with companies in biotechnology, sustainability research, and consignment resale. It will be interesting to see how the label maintains the kind of "sleeper" competitive advantage it's maintained over the years as competitors begin adopting similar practices. FashionSET: CLOSE-UP: Stella McCartney, Fashion’s Sustainability Advocate... The fashion industry has been roundly criticized for a number of social and political issues from diversity to the treatment of models, and it has, in many cases, met the challenges publicly. Whether this is due to social media pressures, challenged business environments, or a sense of duty is up for debate. There's been a reflective tone in fashion, and in that way the industry has the opportunity to lead other sectors—if it can follow through with meaningful change. That sense of optimism is highlighted in BOF and MCKINSEY's joint report, The State of Fashion in 2018. The report includes interviews, predictions, and insights on everything from sustainability to emerging markets. Looking forward to delving further... Briefs: The "stomping on YEEZY" trend... KAREN VAN GODTSENHOVEN, former curator at MOMU, joins THE MET's COSTUME INSTITUTE... Another auction record for an HERMÈS HIMALAYA BIRKIN BAG at CHRISTIE'S in HONG KONG.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
revolving
The Business of Fashion
Amidst New Optimism, Emerging Markets to Overtake West in 2018
by Imran Amed and Achim Berg
The State of Fashion 2018, BoF and McKinsey & Company's in-depth report on the global fashion industry, forecasts sales growth to nearly triple between 2016 and 2018. But the rebound will not be felt evenly across the market.
Racked
Would You Take Out a Loan for a Pair of Jeans?
by Susie Cagle
A new kind of high-interest financial product aims to disrupt how you shop, and how you owe.
Wired
Inside Adidas’ Robot-Powered, On-Demand Sneaker Factory
by Anna Wiener
When its first stateside Speedfactory opens in Atlanta, Adidas will be chasing the future of automated manufacturing in America, too.
SSENSE
What Was ComplexCon?
by Rembert Browne
Rembert Browne travels to Long Beach to make sense of the two-day conference-slash-concert-slash-tradeshow.
SURFACE
Does Fashion's Future Rest in Miroslava Duma's Hands?
by Valerie Steele and Miroslava Duma
The multihyphenate visionary is ready to bring some much-needed change to a struggling, antiquated industry.
GQ Style
What Happened to Designer Adam Kimmel?
by Noah Johnson
Five years after the release of his final collection, we check in with the menswear designer whose influence has only grown since he left the scene.
CBS News
Stella McCartney: Fashion with a conscience
by Alina Cho
The designer talks about her upbringing as the daughter of an ex-Beatle and photographer, a refusal to compromise, and her vegetarian fashion line.
ELLE
Do I Really Want to Revisit My '00s-Era MTV VJ Wardrobe?
by Karen Duffy
"When wearing a trend you’re old enough to remember the first time around, proceed with caution."
Fast Company
The Second Coming Of Lisa Frank
by Rina Raphael
Nostalgia isn’t new, but it’s definitely big business.
The Fashion Law
$20 Jeans, $800 Tees: In Fashion, Prices Are Out of Control
by TFL
Whether it be $4 shirts from H&M or $800 tees from Dior, prices in fashion are extreme and growing increasingly out of control.
overall climate
Bloomberg
Global Warming Is Coming for Your Shopping Cart
by Jennifer Kaplan and Lindsey Rupp
The impact of climate change on the things we buy is already noticeable, but it's bound to get worse.
The Washington Post
Everlane is opening its first stores, after years of swearing it wouldn't
by Abha Bhattarai
Five years ago, its CEO said he’d never open a store. It turns out people like stores.
i-D Magazine
how 032c magazine became the most coveted clothing line for the post-vetements generation
by Anastasiia Fedorova
The magazine’s founders Joerg and Maria Koch discuss turning their cult publication into a line of clothing with an upcoming presentation at Pitti.
The New York Times
S.I. Newhouse Jr., Remembered: 'Eager, Never Jaded'
by Jacob Bernstein
At a memorial for Condé Nast’s former chairman, tearful speakers and raucous anecdotes.
Fashionista
If We Can't Make the Fashion Industry More Sustainable, We May End Up Eating Our Clothes
by Whitney Bauck
A new report details just how bad the current textile economy is for people and the planet -- and offers suggested solutions.
The Business of Fashion
Will the Digitally Native Brand Building Playbook Produce Results?
by Richie Siegel
Compared to the tried-and-tested approach that fuelled the rise of 20th century megabrands, the new formula for building digitally native fashion labels remains unproven, argues Richie Siegel.
Racked
Why the Devil Wears Tights
by Tracy E. Robey
How stockings made the personification of evil way less scary.
The Cut
Olivier Zahm on Why Magazines Still Matter
by Olivier Zahm and Carl Swanson
"The Purple" co-founder looks back on his magazine’s 25 years.
Fashionista
How Georgia, the Country, Became the World's Most Exciting Fashion Destination
by Elsa de Berker
Thanks to its hottest export Demna Gvasalia, the Eastern European nation has never been more popular.
Highsnobiety
ACRONYM's Errolson Hugh Talks Air Force 1s, Nike ACG & More
by Chris Danforth
Recently, we had the opportunity to sit down with ACRONYM's principal designer Errolson Hugh in Berlin. With the release of Hugh's white-on-white ACRONYM x Nike Lunar Force 1 for the "AF100" pack, and the recent NikeLab ACG launch, we had a number of pressing questions for the Canadian-born designer.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"Pep Love"
Hieroglyphics
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@JasonHirschhorn


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