I think people are still tremendously sentimental about their clothes, but what we've lost is an appreciation of construction, textiles, how things are made... That's what I'm trying to retrieve with this exhibition, so that people can understand that yes, it looks really pretty, and it's a Dior, but what is it about that garment, who worked on it, how did it get to be there? | | Bernard Arnault (center left) and Christian LaCroix (center right) on the day of LaCroix's haute couture debut. Paris, Feb. 3, 1987. (Alexis Duclos/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images) | | | | “I think people are still tremendously sentimental about their clothes, but what we've lost is an appreciation of construction, textiles, how things are made... That's what I'm trying to retrieve with this exhibition, so that people can understand that yes, it looks really pretty, and it's a Dior, but what is it about that garment, who worked on it, how did it get to be there?” |
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| rantnrave:// STELLA MCCARTNEY has been placing sustainability and environmental awareness at the core of her namesake label since founding it, 50/50, with KERING (then PPR) in 2001. The label has been savvy about which aspects of its environmental efforts to reveal and which to let go quietly unspoken. As customers have a desire—and an imminent need—to make better choices, companies will face challenges in how to own and advocate sustainability practices. I agree that we should find a new word to describe the mindful, environmentally aware practices that are necessary for long-term survival of the industry. As for sustainable luxury, it's fascinating to see how the conversation has changed. In CATHY HORYN's profile of McCartney from 2012, McCartney's husband, ALASDHAIR WILLIS, said that her values were "absolutely relevant to the times" and that "other brands are just beginning to catch on." That has been proven correct. And McCartney has played a leading role in bringing wider awareness to the industry. There are clear projections about dwindling future resources, so groups like KERING have financial reasons to look ahead. As McCartney's label marks sixteen years, it's expanding into high-profile partnerships with companies in biotechnology, sustainability research, and consignment resale. It will be interesting to see how the label maintains the kind of "sleeper" competitive advantage it's maintained over the years as competitors begin adopting similar practices. FashionSET: CLOSE-UP: Stella McCartney, Fashion’s Sustainability Advocate... The fashion industry has been roundly criticized for a number of social and political issues from diversity to the treatment of models, and it has, in many cases, met the challenges publicly. Whether this is due to social media pressures, challenged business environments, or a sense of duty is up for debate. There's been a reflective tone in fashion, and in that way the industry has the opportunity to lead other sectors—if it can follow through with meaningful change. That sense of optimism is highlighted in BOF and MCKINSEY's joint report, The State of Fashion in 2018. The report includes interviews, predictions, and insights on everything from sustainability to emerging markets. Looking forward to delving further... Briefs: The "stomping on YEEZY" trend... KAREN VAN GODTSENHOVEN, former curator at MOMU, joins THE MET's COSTUME INSTITUTE... Another auction record for an HERMÈS HIMALAYA BIRKIN BAG at CHRISTIE'S in HONG KONG. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| | The Business of Fashion |
The State of Fashion 2018, BoF and McKinsey & Company's in-depth report on the global fashion industry, forecasts sales growth to nearly triple between 2016 and 2018. But the rebound will not be felt evenly across the market. | |
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| Racked |
A new kind of high-interest financial product aims to disrupt how you shop, and how you owe. | |
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| Wired |
When its first stateside Speedfactory opens in Atlanta, Adidas will be chasing the future of automated manufacturing in America, too. | |
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| SSENSE |
Rembert Browne travels to Long Beach to make sense of the two-day conference-slash-concert-slash-tradeshow. | |
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| SURFACE |
The multihyphenate visionary is ready to bring some much-needed change to a struggling, antiquated industry. | |
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| GQ Style |
Five years after the release of his final collection, we check in with the menswear designer whose influence has only grown since he left the scene. | |
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| CBS News |
The designer talks about her upbringing as the daughter of an ex-Beatle and photographer, a refusal to compromise, and her vegetarian fashion line. | |
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| ELLE |
"When wearing a trend you’re old enough to remember the first time around, proceed with caution." | |
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| Fast Company |
Nostalgia isn’t new, but it’s definitely big business. | |
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| The Fashion Law |
Whether it be $4 shirts from H&M or $800 tees from Dior, prices in fashion are extreme and growing increasingly out of control. | |
| | Bloomberg |
The impact of climate change on the things we buy is already noticeable, but it's bound to get worse. | |
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| The Washington Post |
Five years ago, its CEO said he’d never open a store. It turns out people like stores. | |
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| i-D Magazine |
The magazine’s founders Joerg and Maria Koch discuss turning their cult publication into a line of clothing with an upcoming presentation at Pitti. | |
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| The New York Times |
At a memorial for Condé Nast’s former chairman, tearful speakers and raucous anecdotes. | |
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| Fashionista |
A new report details just how bad the current textile economy is for people and the planet -- and offers suggested solutions. | |
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| The Business of Fashion |
Compared to the tried-and-tested approach that fuelled the rise of 20th century megabrands, the new formula for building digitally native fashion labels remains unproven, argues Richie Siegel. | |
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| Racked |
How stockings made the personification of evil way less scary. | |
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| The Cut |
"The Purple" co-founder looks back on his magazine’s 25 years. | |
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| Fashionista |
Thanks to its hottest export Demna Gvasalia, the Eastern European nation has never been more popular. | |
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| Highsnobiety |
Recently, we had the opportunity to sit down with ACRONYM's principal designer Errolson Hugh in Berlin. With the release of Hugh's white-on-white ACRONYM x Nike Lunar Force 1 for the "AF100" pack, and the recent NikeLab ACG launch, we had a number of pressing questions for the Canadian-born designer. | |
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