My job as a costume designer is to serve a story. It’s not about making an impact or a statement. A lot of my work is subtle. It’s all about the character. To me it’s: Where would that person shop in real life? Do they care about their clothes? Everybody dresses for a reason. I think about whether they care, would they go out and buy new things, or have they been wearing the same things for the last 10 years? | | | | | Orshi Drozdik, 'Brains on High Heels,' 1993. (Osvaldo valdes 165443) | | | | |  | “My job as a costume designer is to serve a story. It’s not about making an impact or a statement. A lot of my work is subtle. It’s all about the character. To me it’s: Where would that person shop in real life? Do they care about their clothes? Everybody dresses for a reason. I think about whether they care, would they go out and buy new things, or have they been wearing the same things for the last 10 years?”
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| | rantnrave:// THE FASHION AWARDS happened in LONDON, and there's some timely analysis on the format and general mood of the awards from ELIZABETH PATON and LAUREN SHERMAN. Fashion award ceremonies—and the critique that there are too few surprises—brings to mind this article by MARK HARRIS, on the politics of the ACADEMY AWARDS and deciding “whose turn” it is. If the public can predict who the winners and nominees of fashion awards are, does it undermine the criteria from which they were selected to win? I'm all for celebrating talent in an industry. What and who are we judging here? Could get interesting if a different set of people voted for fashion awards each year. Get the ceremony and pomp together, but—wait for it—no one could guess who wins, and winners are chosen by anyone from an 11-year-old hypebeast to your grandma. Interesting exercise. The element of surprise can be the ultimate risk: "They nominated a counterfeiter!"… STYLUS has a roundup of aftercare fashion clinics. The belief in one's own products—enough that a company offers cleaning, care, and refurbishment for its wares—takes some cynicism out of shopping, and it works for marketing. Not every company can afford the investment in that level of service, and that in itself can be a kind of status symbol. Whether customers take full advantage of it is another issue. Old-school, in a good way... Behold the CHANEL pre-fall collection... Making moves: MARINA LARROUDÉ, formerly of TEEN VOGUE and STYLE.COM, has joined team BARNEYS with JENNIFER SUNWOO. STEPHEN MOOALLEM has moved from HARPER'S BAZAAR to the VILLAGE VOICE. Does this mean there will be more Voice fashion coverage (yes, please)?… You have 4 days left to bid on these old NIKES, up for sale on EBAY from seller SHOEZEUM. That's definitely the best seller ID I've seen in a long time. Current bid at time of publish: $6,200 w/free shipping. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| Last night at the Fashion Awards, Demna and Guram Gvasalia were recognized for their massive influence on fashion this year. Anders Christian Madsen reflects on the charismatic brothers who defined this year. | | |
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 | Fashion Unfiltered |
| The woman responsible for Kurt Cobain’s grandpa sweater and the look of "The Virgin Suicides" opens up about working with David Lynch. | | |
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 | WSJ |
| Following one coat’s journey from Zara’s design workshop in Spain to retail display rack in Manhattan offers an inside look at the fast-fashion model that has made parent company Inditex the world’s biggest fashion retailer by sales. | | |
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 | 1 Granary |
| Simone Rocha has risen to fashion prominence through diligence and sticking to her ethos at all times. In an industry where press too often lauds handsful of emerging designers as ‘the best things ever to have happened to fashion’ and conversely drop them two seasons in, it is admirable to see how Rocha has employed the same design principles in each collection, and critics are over the moon. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| With a new-look, globalized event, plus Marilyn Manson and Ralph Lauren, Britain attempts to position itself as an arbiter of international style. | | |
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 | Business of Fashion |
| The British Fashion Council revamped its annual awards show, aiming for a high-wattage, global-scale "mix of the Academy Awards and the Met Ball." | | |
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 | WWD |
| Karl Lagerfeld paraded a pre-fall collection as opulent as the setting - the Ritz Paris. | | |
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 | Racked |
| Closing your wallet is even harder than you expect. | | |
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 | Jing Daily |
| Indie and big-name dress brands are gaining exposure to China's increasingly savvy fashionistas thanks to Rent the Runway's cousins. | | |
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 | Cosmopolitan |
| The teens were among the biggest internet sensations of the year. Now what? | | |
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 | Google Blog |
| To celebrate its rich history and create new experiences around British fashion, the BFC and Google have gathered together fashion icons -- brands, designers, makers and craftspeople, creatives, photographers, stylists and models -- and used technology to tell their stories. | | |
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 | Hypebeast |
| As part of ‘Surface’ magazine’s Design Dialogues No. 31 panel during Art Basel 2016. The polymath designers/longstanding collaborators didn’t shy away from answering some of the toughest questions posed by Surface fashion editor Courtney Kenefick. | | |
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 | Tech in Asia |
| You may never again see a wearable gadget from Intel. Not in the near future, at least. The global tech giant is pulling the shutter on its wearable gadget initiative after it had to do a mass recall of Peak smartwatches, multiple sources in the company confirmed. | | |
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| Racked |
| More and more people are taking to the internet to buy very expensive fine jewelry, before actually seeing it in real life. | | |
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 | Colorado Public Radio |
| The museum's director hopes the exhibition attracts a lot of visitors, but insists they are not "dumbing down things." | | |
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| Business of Fashion |
| Will.i.am and LVMH chief digital officer Ian Rogers took the stage at VOICES to discuss how technology is transforming fashion and what the luxury business can learn from music’s digital disruption. | | |
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 | The Fashion Law |
| Brands rely on the sales of non-runway – and in many cases, non-garment – goods to derive the majority of their profits. So, why do designers show garments on the runway that never make the transition to retail? | | |
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 | West Central Tribune |
| While politicians talk about bringing American jobs back, this small-town manufacturer has successfully fought to keep them against the odds. Clarkfield Outdoors continues to produce apparel for outdoor activities such as hunting and fishing, but has also redefined itself to survive in an industry that long ago fled to countries with low labor costs. | | |
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 | VAMP |
| Try and imagine the footwear factory of the future. What do you see? If it were up to Adidas, it would look something like thousands of shoes rolling off a production line at the company's new robotic. | | |
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 | 032c |
| During our research for the 48-page dossier on THE HELMUT LANG LEGACY for issue #31, we rediscovered another one of Lang's superpowers: his dazzling wit. It is vacuum sealed in archive interviews with the Austrian designer. What Would Helmut Do? Here's our guide. | | |
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 | via YouTube |
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