Even though most brands now have a presence in most major countries, the way [fashion leaders] in the West approach the rest of the world needs to change. Apart from China, I don’t think they give most other emerging markets enough attention or acknowledge their contributions or needs or even their market value.
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The Alps. Switzerland, Mademoiselle 1963.
(George Barkentin/Getty Images)
Thursday - December 07, 2017 Thu - 12/07/17
rantnrave:// A mood for anti-fashion has been growing over the past few years, and brands like PATAGONIA have been there to supply the perfect wardrobe for the stylish, the socially conscious, and the style unconscious (willful, that is). It's the style of non-style, or the style of "please let there be less dubious origin attributable to this garment." Fashion's sustainability efforts have gained steady momentum in 2017, and they've made a marked turn toward technology and innovation. In times of tense political tenor, it's no wonder people flock to companies like Patagonia, ones that offer a sense of conviction and solidarity. The company has achieved mythic success by making a social mission intrinsic to its profitability. Tell people not to buy this jacket? They’ll spend in record numbers. Sue the US government over public lands? People will crash the website to learn more. It’s been a long road for the company, and its relationship to growth hasn't been an entirely smooth one. That makes the story all the more intriguing. Founder YVON CHOUINARD has been obstinate in keeping the company's convictions at its core. Now going on 45 years in business, the company is making bold political statements—and it's more fashionable than ever. This was once to the chagrin of its founder, who said in 1992, "We outgrew our loyal customer base and increasingly were selling to yuppies, posers, and wannabes. These people don't need this s*** to get in their Jeep Cherokees and drive to Connecticut for the weekend." 25 years later and the company seems to have embraced (or at least accepted) its fashionable stature. I'm not wearing the brand 24/7, but I'm a fan. Its WORN WEAR program is a savvy move given people's interest in secondhand goods. Is Patagonia the prime model for a 21st century company, that is, one that's privately held and a certified B-corp? From anti-growth strategies to political confrontations, the company doesn't seem to be slowing down. FashionSET: When Purpose Drives Profits: Patagonia’s Ascent... CHANEL's pre-fall 2018 show took place at the ELBPHILHARMONIE in HAMBURG, and it looked as stunning as ever... Briefs: MODA OPERANDI raises $165 million in a round led by ADRIAN CHENG and APAX DIGITAL... DELPOZO will show in LONDON... LOUIS VUITTON's chatbot... MUGLER's new creative director.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
landed
The New York Times
Death of Retail? 2017 Was All About the Empire of Luxury E-Tail
by Elizabeth Paton
Farfetch, the other big name, is a online marketplace for 500 independent luxury boutiques and 200 brands as well as the owner of the bricks-and-mortar store Browns in London. The stakes are high.
The Washington Post
A history of the final dying days of the power suit
by Robin Givhan
Douglas Heye wears suits. Like a lot of men, he gives a fair amount of consideration to the way those suits are styled. Unlike a lot of men, he is willing and able to break down those considerations into specifics.
intelligence
Interview: Paul Harvey and Alessandro Pungetti of Ten c
by Lena Dystant
With over two decades of collaboration under their belts, designers and creative directors, Paul Harvey and Alessandro Pungetti, have formed a successful team that quite simply, works. Their contribution to the menswear landscape, both separately and as a partnership, is significant to say the least.
Racked
Why Androids Like Sophia Dress Conservatively
by Tessa Love
In the 1975 psychological thriller "The Stepford Wives," Joanna Eberhart finds herself surrounded by mundane, passive, domestic bombshells dressed in ruffly summer dresses and wide-brimmed hats. They're uninterested in her feminist urgings and only seem to care about housework and baking. They, of course, have been turned into subservient robots by their sagging Men's-Club-member husbands.
Highsnobiety
Clothing Technology: These Were 2017's Wildest Innovations
by Alex Rakestraw
2017 was a year of bold strides in apparel innovation. Here's a roundup of the past year's wildest innovations in clothing technology.
The Business of Fashion
Eileen Fisher Makes Strides Towards Circularity With ‘Tiny Factory’
by Chantal Fernandez
The American ready-to-wear brand is turning reclaimed garments into an economically viable collection of renewed and remade clothing.
The New York Times
Gucci Moves Its Fine Jewelry Line Upmarket
by Laura Rysman
These are flush times for Gucci, the 96-year-old house that in recent years has become fashion’s all-conquering luxury brand. And amid booming sales, Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director since 2015, has introduced the brand’s first high-end fine jewelry line, a series of extravagant styles that present the designer’s florid evocations of flea market finds as gem-encrusted treasures.
Quartzy
A watchdog group suggests H&M used a promise to pay workers better for publicity
by Marc Bain
Big pledges can draw a lot of attention and praise, but it's the follow-through that matters.
Dazed Digital
Jeweller Shaun Leane remembers his iconic McQueen pieces
by Jack Moss
From the face clamp to the skeleton corset, he shares the stories behind his multiple collaborations with the British designer.
British Vogue
Chanel In Hamburg: Karl Lagerfeld Revisits His Roots
by Suzy Menkes
The designer muses on returning to the country of his birth, his inspiration for the new show and the recent deaths of his two great fashion sparring partners, Azzedine Alaïa and Pierre Bergé.
seafaring
The Atlantic
How Online Retail Is Changing Product Packaging
by Joe Pinsker
A conversation with the editor of the trade publication 'Packaging Digest.'
Highsnobiety
The Supreme Family Tree
by Jian DeLeon
Ever since opening its doors in 1994, Supreme has become a global phenomenon with stores in Europe, the United States, and Japan.
GQ Style
Pat McGrath, the World's Most Famous Makeup Artist, Has a Few Ideas for Men
by Samuel Hine
Plus a fly new streetwear line dropping at Dover Street Market this week.
The Guardian
Feeling green: the brands bringing social consciousness into fashion
by Tamsin Blanchard
A group of established and emerging brands are pushing the boundaries on the British high street and beyond to create timeless pieces with accessible prices.
The Telegraph
Luxury goods suppliers can ban distributors selling on Amazon says ECJ
by James Crisp
Luxury beauty company Coty can stop retailers from selling its products online, Europe's top court has ruled. The European Court of Justice said a supplier could prohibit the selling of its goods on platforms such as Amazon to protect its luxury image.
WWD
Former Model Michael 'Boyd Hager' Alleges Mistreatment, Wants Others to Recognize Abuse
by Rosemary Feitelberg
The former model alleged his job prospects may have been affected by his unwillingness to hang out with his agent.
Fashionista
How Museums and Cultural Institutions Have Shaped the History of Body Diversity
by Laura Neilson
When it comes to mannequins, dress forms and other displays for dressing the human body, do museums have a responsibility to exhibit garments - particularly contemporary fashion - more realistically?
SSENSE
User Experience: Eckhaus Latta's Los Angeles Store
by Fiona Duncan
Eckhaus Latta’s Los Angeles gallery-shop hybrid lends the aura of artworks to their well-curated wares.
Fashionista
This Direct-to-Consumer Equestrian Apparel Brand Is For Horse Riders and Those Who Want to Dress Like One
by Maria Bobila
Free x Rein is aiming to disrupt the sport’s antiquated business model.
i-D Magazine
A Former Helmut Lang Assistant is Berlin's Fashion Star
by Juule Kay
Kostas Murkudis explains why he’s not a fan of the logo trend and why he doesn't call himself a minimalist designer.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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