Usually, pieces that do well editorially don’t sell well, which [publicists] know—but brands lack research elements and just look at what’s doing well in the media. They need other strategies to find out what their customers want.
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Holiday window displays at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC, 2014. (Phil Roeder/Flickr)
Friday - December 09, 2016 Fri - 12/09/16
rantnrave:// As DECEMBER has people looking toward the future and the next cycle of 365 days, we stand at the divide in which we’re always standing, one which fashion knows so well. Present driving into future, present slipping into past, past renewing eternally into future. Time and patience. Time and patience. Does it require patience to get fit right? As the industry evolves, will custom fit mean the intimacy of the atelier or the practiced hand of the tailor, the laser heads of 3D scanners or database fields stored with size dimensions? All of it... We’ve witnessed both a push against “standard” sizes and a push toward one-size-fits-all (differently) in fashion. So it’s custom, omni, or frustration. In SOUTH KOREA, many of the über-hip sweatshirts often come “no size.” Call it glorifying the slump, like snuggies. Sizing is a manifestation of how people’s bodies change over time and the attempts to provide options. Remember as a kid when you kept growing out of your shoes? This gem from CHINA's GLOBAL TIMES outlines the predicament of expat Europeans who only fit a XXXL in China’s standard fit systems. The quest for fit. Lingerie brand PÊCHE is dedicated to the emotional side of fit and is set within a historical context at RACKED. The founders of OPENING CEREMONY hired a larger fit model and tweaked designs in order to expand their fit to more body types. Would love to see a comprehensive size index over time matched with quantitative data on how people’s bodies have changed. Great project for fashion studies… PANTONE announced color of the year: greenery… BOF will not cover pre-fall… I love the GUARDIAN’s fashion archive. Would love to see a similar feature from the NEW YORK TIMES.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
wut
The Washington Post
How this independent boutique thrives in an era of fast fashion
by Robin Givhan
Relish’s Nancy Pearlstein knows what D.C. women want - even if they do not.
Tank Magazine
A space to meet: the Southern Comfort transgender conference in Fort Lauderdale
by Tom Rasmussen
The annual Southern Comfort transgender conference in sunny Fort Lauderdale.
ELLE
What Really Makes Your Perfume Smell Good (It's Not Flowers)
by April Long
In an era of natural, raw, and "real" everything, the perfume business is staging a luxurious rebellion: standing up for-indeed, showcasing-the synthetic ingredients that are not only safe but likely the real magic in your favorite scent.
The New York Times
Color of 2017? Pantone Picks a Spring Shade
by Vanessa Friedman
Next year we are all going green, according to the Pantone Color Institute. Here’s why.
Racked
Finally, Lingerie That Works for Every Body
by Christina Tesoro
The history of lingerie is narrow, but Pêche is for everyone.
Eye magazine
RETRO READ: Through thick and thin: fashion and type
by Abbott Miller, Charles Deberney and A. M. Cassandre
Fashion’s obsessions are mirrored in its typography, from Vogue’s femme serifs to butch Chanel and the hybrid YSL logo.
Global Times
Having a fit! Expats in China on finding the "right size"
by Wang Han
Petite Chinese often complain about not being able to find clothes when living abroad, with the common refrain being that everything is too big. Foreigners in China have the same issue, just in reverse. The Global Times speaks with expats in Shanghai about where they shop for large-size apparel and shoes.
WSJ
A Fashion Designer’s Secret Weapon: the Right Fit
by Christina Binkley
A great fit can be a fashion designer’s secret weapon. Opening Ceremony put a new focus on the fit process to ensure clothes would work on many body types and offer room to move; a new fit model.
WWD
Supreme Court Decision Blow to Fashion Designers
by Kristi Ellis
The court’s ruling in favor of Samsung in its battle with Apple could weaken patent protection for fashion designs.
Glossy
Confessions of a fashion publicist: 'We're an industry that has been pigeonholed'
by Jemma Brackebush
The role of a fashion publicist is not what it used to be.
huh
The New York Times
A Change Purse in T-Rex Skin, Perhaps?
by Katherine Bernard
Coach celebrates its re-emergence with a flagship on Fifth Avenue, featuring a ceiling conveyor belt, an in-store workshop and a 12-foot dinosaur.
Business of Fashion
From Designer to CEO, Alexander Wang Is a Man with a Plan
by Imran Amed
In his first sit-down interview as CEO of the business that bears his name, Alexander Wang speaks exclusively to Imran Amed about his plans for the future.
Sourcing Journal Online
Amazon Courts Males with New Private-Label Collection
by Caletha Crawford
Amazon is targeting the well-dressed man with Buttoned Down, its latest private-label brand-and the first offered exclusively to Amazon Prime members.
The Guardian
The safety-pin has become 'a thing in itself' - fashion archive, 1933
7 December 1933: The humble safety-pin has grown in grace of recent years
The Fashion Law
Counterfeit Beauty Goods Are at a High, Here is What You Need to Know
by TFL
While Alibaba’s chairman, Jack Ma, may have made headlines earlier this year when he said counterfeit bags are of similar quality to the real thing, this is certainly not true when it comes to cosmetics and other beauty goods.
Bloomberg
Luxury Brands Want You to Go Back to Paris
by Joelle Diderich
Terrorist attacks and the robbing of Kim Kardashian have tainted Paris’s reputation, galvanizing Chanel, Cartier and other luxury brands to convince high-end shoppers that the City of Lights remains a beacon for high-end retail.
Glossy
Flair for the obscure is luxury's new currency
by Ana Andjelic
"To be known by a small, elite group both builds a brand’s equity and ensures that it is lucrative in the long run: Limited-edition, waitlisted samples tap into consumers’ desires to be in the know, plus they create word-of-mouth."
WWD
Pierre Cardin Marks 70 Years With Institut de France Fashion Show
by Miles Socha
Pierre Cardin will celebrate 70 years in business with a fashion show for the ages at the Institut de France.
Fast Company
Google's "Window Wonderland" Brings New York's Holiday Retail Extravaganzas To The Web
by Harry McCracken
How Google digitized the festive displays at 18 major retail establishments for your enjoymentno trip to Manhattan required.
Because Magazine
The Because Fashion Awards 2016
by Dino Bonacic
Celebrating some of the most memorable moments from 2016, including "Best Use of Model’s Non-Modelling Skills" and "Best Lethal Accessory."
MUSIC OF THE DAY
COLORS Berlin, via YouTube
"I'm in a Mood"
Mykki Blanco
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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