One thing about fashion that I want to take forward from 2017 to 2018... doing something with candor and actually saying something and having a proper intention in your work. | | | | Models wearing Pierre Cardin, 1968.
(Jack Burlot/Sygma/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “One thing about fashion that I want to take forward from 2017 to 2018... doing something with candor and actually saying something and having a proper intention in your work.”
|
| |
| | rantnrave:// 1 GRANARY's conversation with CATHY HORYN offers some sharp insights on the industry and a strong sense of perspective on history—how the past continually inflects the present. Horyn says she spends a lot of time thinking about the past, mentioning HONORÉ DE BALZAC's writing about the changing world in the midst of industrialization. With the spread of the internet, fashion is in the midst of sweeping industrial change yet again, and the industry's ability to contextualize its legacies from a business and cultural perspective is crucial. How well is fashion's history represented in education? For design, for business?... The emphasis on what came before had me thinking about a recently-opened exhibition organized by my friend EMMA MCCLENDON, called "The Body: Fashion and Physique." The show is on view at the MUSEUM AT FIT’s history gallery, a space that rotates exhibitions with the goal of presenting how fashion has changed over time, with each show organized around a central theme. "The Body" shows how fashion exemplifies the ideal body and, at the same time, drives prevailing ideals to change. Some of the exhibition's most memorable examples show how the fashionable body is celebrated or condemned through media. There are nineteenth-century caricatures of men fitfully lacing women into corsets and sketches of older women dressed in the height of fashion, yet pitifully viewed as "fashion victims." Turn the corner and there's a screen playing JANE FONDA’s workout video from the 1980s. Body ideals often arrive by consensus, yet the exhibition shows that there are always shades of difference and countermovements within fashionable ideals. LANE BRYANT's marketing of plus-sizes surfaces throughout the show, from its "Stout Women" collections in the early twentieth century to PRABAL GURUNG's 2017 collaboration with the retailer. CHROMAT's recent caged design echoes the structure of a crinoline from the mid-1800s; in fashion, forms resurface, as do its debates—yet meanings change. Is fashion headed toward a broader range of ideals? The show's final focus is on the momentum toward inclusive styles, showing fashion's function as a vehicle for advocacy in recent years… Briefs: When was the last time you noticed website design when shopping online? Notice this: an "immersive browser-based window shopping experience" courtesy of FEEL.THATSH.IT. Domain hacks... COLETTE, now in its final days, dropped some merch at NYC's STORY... Inspired by VHS. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
|
|
 | The Business of Fashion |
| Fashion critic Cathy Horyn talks about navigating emerging designers, new media and nostalgia, courtesy of 1 Granary. | | |
|
 | The New York Times |
| Mr. Aldrin, a space evangelist preaching the gospel of interplanetary travel through his Space Share Foundation, said he had little practical input into the products' design. Their value, he maintained, is less in pushing the wares than in promoting a vision. | | |
|
 | i-D Magazine |
| We spent a final afternoon saying goodbye to our favorite Parisian fashion store, as Sarah reveals what she’ll do on the day the store closes for good. | | |
|
| The Business of Fashion |
| The fashion house has had its fair share of comings and goings. Now, Luke and Lucie Meier are reimagining the brand. | | |
|
 | Fashionista |
| Policy-makers, press, brands and artisan leaders met at the U.N. on Thursday to discuss this under-recognized segment of the fashion industry. | | |
|
 | Departures |
| The multibillion-dollar global luxury conglomerate is opening the doors to its eco-friendly practices. | | |
|
 | Ivy Style |
| Since the 1960s, Japan has been an important part of the story of the Ivy League Look, and during a few dark periods the island nation has played an important role in preventing the style from possible extinction. | | |
|
 | New Atlas |
| Suiting up for the final frontier isn't just about looks, it's about surviving and working in one of the harshest environments possible. So what exactly is a spacesuit, and what will the spacefaring fashionistas of the future be wearing? | | |
|
| The New York Times |
| The decision by the International Olympic Committee to ban Russia from the 2018 Winter Games in Pyeongchang, South Korea, for widespread doping, but to allow vetted individual athletes to compete on a case-by-case basis as "Olympic athletes from Russia" has seemingly raised as many questions as it has answered. | | |
|
 | Bloomberg |
| Shoppers visiting Patagonia Inc.'s website to seek out a fleece jacket or mountain biking jersey on Wednesday were greeted with an ominous announcement. "The President Stole Your Land," the text read on a black page. That land is in Utah, made up of millions of acres of wilderness in a pair of national monuments. | | |
|
 | Public Radio International |
| The world's biggest fashion retailer wants you to help them “close the loop” by donating your unwanted clothes. But only a small percentage of those cast-offs become new clothes. | | |
|
 | Highsnobiety |
| Many media publications covering style, music and sneakers are indebted to 'The Face'. But what was this magazine and what can we learn from it? | | |
|
 | AnOther |
| Karl Lagerfeld took to his native Hamburg to show the house’s Métiers d’Art collection, which presented exquisite craftsmanship as a counterweight to facile fast fashion. | | |
|
| Fashionista |
| The past 12 months have proven that celebrities are the ultimate influencers. | | |
|
 | Motherboard |
| Andras Forgacs co-founded Modern Meadow to revolutionize the materials we wear everyday. | | |
|
 | Glossy |
| Ankush Sehgal, CEO of the financial service Try, wants to create an online shopping experience that emulates brick-and-mortar, including the ability to try on clothing without a fee. "If you walk into a store, and you pick five or six items from the shelf, and you walk into a fitting room, you're not thinking, 'Oh, can I afford these six items right now?'" he said. | | |
|
| Fashionista |
| Jane Petrie also starts Queen Elizabeth II's wardrobe evolution into her current day signature style. | | |
|
 | The Conversation |
| Adding 20 cents to the price of a T-shirt in Australia would be enough to lift all Indian workers in the garment supply chain out of poverty. | | |
|
 | Daily Front Row |
| There are few who possess an encyclopedic knowledge of film quite like Isaac Mizrahi. Now, the designer has partnered with Filmstruck, a new subscription, on-demand service for film aficionados, to introduce classic fashion flicks. | | |
|
 | JSTOR Daily |
| The kimono that the world associates with Japan was actually created in the late-nineteenth century as a cultural identifier. | | |
|
 | YouTube |
| | | | | | | | |
|
|
| © Copyright 2017, The REDEF Group |
|
|
