My work was more about the rapprochement of the sexes and a more androgynous look for men and women. I was looking for more supportive ways to dress myself as a working woman. And since my needs were collective needs in the era of women entering the business world, my work turned out to help them.
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"Supersonic style show." Models wear Pucci for Braniff International, Sept. 23, 1966.
(Bettmann/Getty Images)
Tuesday - December 12, 2017 Tue - 12/12/17
rantnrave:// I’ve been getting a lot of packages this month (’tis the season for wild e-commerce consumption after all), and as the boxes roll in, I’ve become more sensitive (alright, irritated) at the next-level amount of packing materials stuffed inside every corrugated box. There were starwheel-shaped foam packing peanuts inside a package from SOUTH KOREA, long scrunched-up skeins of stiff brown paper that unfurled out of boxes like some jurassic form of sea kelp, bubble wrap of every conceivable bubble diameter, smooth packing paper the color of dried cement, folded tissue slapped with stickers, air pouches (some punctured and wilted in the box, others, still puffed up, sailing around the box like flotillas on a mission to nowhere)—I could go on. Can I recycle this? Can I reuse this? Send it to the pyre at BURNING MAN? It’s trash long before it got to me. And it feels like too much. I’m still thinking about THE ATLANTIC's conversation with the editor of PACKAGING DIGEST on how packaging continues to evolve. The reasons for packaging's purpose and design are myriad: durability, branding, beauty. MODA OPERANDI offers shoppers a choice between eco-friendly packing and signature boxes—both good options—while NET-A-PORTER offers signature or "basic" options. I love packaging when there is thought and intention behind it. But for an urban dweller like myself, who also happens to live within a close radius of large fulfillment capitals (here’s looking at you, several cities in NEW JERSEY), I don’t need the package to be secured as if it were being shot out of a cannon from the GARDEN STATE to my doorstep. I would love some further thought and care put into retail delivery. in the age of e-commerce, receiving packages originally designed to beckon shoppers turning the corner for a long walk down aisle 32 doesn’t feel relevant. Beauty packaging? Don’t get me wrong, I love brands like TATCHA for their packaging design. But more often my concern for earth’s destruction has me willing to sacrifice that part of the experience. Give me an AR barcode to scan for ingredients. Unless the box is something I'll hold on to (like the PAULOWNIA wood boxes Tatcha sends gift sets in), forget the outside carton. I enjoy the design of hangtags when they’re intentional, but plastic fasteners can go to the depths of some religion’s hell. In retail's move toward customization and optimization, why not have a whole list of options for deliveries that don’t require packing like they're being dropped off the top of a ten-story building? I envision a world where my orders are packed elegantly and efficiently, fitted together like blocks in a JENGA box. Yes, there are practical limitations. Delivery networks are overlaid on pre-existing infrastructure. Those are opportunities. Maybe next holiday season... In brief: Here are the guest designers showing at PARIS MEN'S FASHION WEEK... Denim brands talk life after WHITE OAK... PTA swag.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
playback
The New Yorker
China's Selfie Obsession
by Jiayang Fan
Meitu’s apps are changing what it means to be beautiful in the most populous country on earth.
Racked
Dior, YSL, and Armani Are All Fighting a Battle for Makeup Relevance
by Cheryl Wischhover
On a stretch of Broadway in New York City's Soho neighborhood, one of the city's most touristy blocks, two new shiny beauty stores opened right next to each other last month. One is almost entirely red and has a huge red gorilla in the window.
British Vogue
Jil Sander: Fashion's First Feminist
by Suzy Menkes
Jil Sander is fresh-faced and smiling as a brisk wind blows through the garden of the museum in Frankfurt am Main. No matter that the image of the German designer who defined female fashion over four decades is seen through a series of photographs.
Racked
The Bruce Weber Allegations Shed Light on Sexual Misconduct in Fashion
by Nadra Nittle
In many ways, modeling is a peculiar industry. A model can show up for a job fully clothed only to be asked to disrobe without warning. Colleagues may touch a model's body during a shoot or make snide remarks about it - "lose weight" and "do something with your hair."
GQ Style
Angelo Baque Took Over Art Basel with the Most Epic Pop-Up of 2017
by Samuel Hine
See what happened when Virgil Abloh, Heron Preston, No Vacancy Inn, Cali Thornhil Dewitt, Skepta, and more came together in Miami for “Social Studies.” Plus, Angelo Baque talks about educating sneakerheads and his plans for Awake NY.
Fashionista
Diversity on Magazine Covers Saw a Slight Decline in 2017
by Maura Brannigan
We reviewed 154 covers from 10 leading U.S. fashion publications, and while some titles saw distinct improvement, others went in a disappointing, opposite direction.
SSENSE
Menswear Critic Charlie Porter Thinks We Should 'Buy Nothing'
by Adam Wray
The Financial Times’ menswear critic on nostalgia cycles and what Comme Des Garçons gets that most brands don’t.
The New Yorker
Micro-Revolutions
by Ben Taub, Joshua Rothman, Doreen St. Félix...
Micro-Revolutions: Spidersilk, Edible Drones, Artificial Wombs, and More. Small things with a big impact.
Vogue
The Year in Sustainability: The Biggest News and What to Expect in 2018
by Emily Farra
Between the major fashion brands that got on board to new high-tech developments, 2017 was the year sustainability went from being a buzzword to an industry-wide movement.
Bloomberg
The Retail Apocalypse Is Fueled by No-Name Clothes
by Matthew Boyle
A few months ago, Amazon.com Inc. representatives met with fashion designer Jackie Wilson as part of the expansion of Amazon's surging apparel business. They wanted her to make a knit top for women that would be sold under an Amazon-owned private label.
pause
Red Bull TV
Social Fabric S1E11: Sacred Threads
by Kyle Ng
Could 'Sunday Best' be the next big trend? Along with musician Johnny P, Kyle heads to Brooklyn Circus to get dressed up for church. He sees how Islamic threads are being modernized at 5ive Pillars, and explores the history of the Sikh turban.
BuzzFeed
Before It Was The Fascist Haircut, It Was So Much More
by Patty Suarez
Nobody can escape 2017, a year when the aesthetics of white nationalists even made their way into a queer salon in Brooklyn.
Public Radio International
Working in a garment factory may not bring this mother and daughter long-term economic stability
by Andrea Crossan and Jasmine Garsd
Rongmala Begum, like many of Bangladesh’s garment workers, doesn’t know how old she is. She doesn’t have a birth certificate, which is common for the rural poor here. She thinks she’s in her 40s. She has an identification card, but she can’t read it. Begum is illiterate.
Quartzy
Bookstores may be dying, but fashion brands are giving them new life
by Noël Duan
Fashion brands, from Paris-based Sonia Rykiel to New York City-based Warby Parker, are curating books as décor.
WSJ
Fashion Adopts the Soccer Scarf...and Fans Just Don't Get It
by Jacob Gallagher
As fashion designers tranform the egalitarian club-scarf into a logofied luxury, true-blue soccer fans are left scratching their heads.
Grailed
Intentionally Mysterious: The Elusive Nature of Sasquatchfabrix
by Marc Richardson
If you visit Japan, particularly retail-rich Tokyo, chances are you'll stumble upon a brand that you've previously never heard of. That's true for fashion aficionados, for their less fashionable parents and even for those who are paid nice salaries to work in the industry.
Glossy
A revived The Limited returns to plus sizes
by Bethany Biron
A year after the The Limited filed for bankruptcy and closed all 250 of its stores in 42 states, the brand is being resurrected. The Limited will now be exclusively distributed by Belk, a department store chain that operates primarily in the southern United States.
The Fashion Law
'Harper's Bazaar,' Cosmo Parent Company Victorious in Unpaid Intern Lawsuit
Almost exactly five years after Xuedan "Diana" Wang and five other named plaintiffs filed a headline-making lawsuit against  Hearst Corp., claiming that it violated federal and state law by failing to pay thousands of interns, the publishing giant has been handed what may be the case's final victory. 
Vogue
Takeaways From Nest's Artisan Leadership Summit on Ethical Fashion at the United Nations
by Emily Farra
Last Thursday, Nest gathered industry leaders, designers, and artisans at the United Nations to address the future of the handworker and the media’s role in affecting change.
Sixth Tone
Why I Abandoned My Dream of Becoming a Master Craftsman
by You Zhichao
Being an embroiderer brought me great joy and satisfaction, but it wasn’t enough to provide for my family.
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