I was reacting to what's going on in fashion now: conservative and careful and commercial. The fact that I was doing things that were fragile and hard to produce and hard to ship and hard to show in a store, was an emotional reaction to the straight world we live in now.
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Selfridges, 2007. (Herry Lawford/Flickr)
Wednesday - December 14, 2016 Wed - 12/14/16
rantnrave:// This piece on CUBA and clothing, by CHAVIE LIEBER, is a must-read. It will take you through Cuba’s factories, its boutiques, its malls and magazines, and through an apartment doubling as a black-market boutique… RACKED has been killing it lately, no? You can go behind their recent rebranding on VOX PRODUCT. The focus on research and inclusion of audience comments piqued my interest. In case you're unsure of whether or not people are curious about fashion as a cultural space, consider the following comment. It's from a Racked audience member who thinks the pub should cover fashion more like music: “Like how a song was put together and how these random artists made it happen...something like that for fashion would be interesting. framing it as if it were music, which is a lot more accessible than fashion”… Now on to a whole spectrum of issues about stores, precisely of the brick-and-mortar variety. The venerated HONG KONG retailer JOYCE just launched JOYCE CENTRAL. Both DRIES VAN NOTEN and RICK OWENS talk to i-D about how the retailer helped their careers and what it means for designers to maintain independence, both creatively and financially. They also speak to the importance of retailers' willingness to champion new designers. In other words: it's important. Stores can be a source of validation. It seems that designers who can afford themselves time and experimentation are the ones with true luxury these days… NEIMAN MARCUS addressed its slide in profits for Q1 2017. People had lots to say about it... 032C has opened its first store in BERLIN… You can see COSMOPOLITAN editor-in-chief JOANNA COLES and her team in action on this new reality show from E!. The first episode will air on FEB. 8… Bonus round, because everyone loves the cascading unicorns and rainbows on LOVE's site: 20 questions with ALESSANDRO MICHELE. And check out these new designers, who will be showing soon at FASHION EAST in LONDON.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
hauls
Racked
Clothes, Communism, and the Cuban Way
by Chavie Lieber
Inside Cuba's shopping industry, from the black markets to the country's up-and-coming designers.
i-D Magazine
Shopping The Future With Joyce, Hong Kong’s Most Forward-thinking Retailer
by Anders Christian Madsen
Joyce Central has supported independent brands like Dries Van Noten and Rick Owens since their beginnings. As the store re-launches, the two designers reflect on an industry now more corporate than ever.
The New York Times
When Politics Became a Fashion Statement
by Vanessa Friedman
“Political dress” used to mean the outfits of the political class. In 2016, it became a term donned by everyone, and damned by some.
Vestoj
Putting On a Zoot Suit
by Clarissa M. Esguerra
A case of race and class in the first truly American suit.
Harper's Bazaar
Who is the Real Paris Hilton?
by Olivia Fleming
The 35-year-old powerhouse gets honest about her lucrative life in the spotlight.
The Culture Crush
Too Big Not To Fail? The New Retail Landscape
by Debra Scherer and Robin Lewis
Debra Scherer and Robin Lewis talk about how the consumer has evolved and the blind spot in many retail strategies faltering today. Growth, which has always been the retail endgame, is now sinking a lot of ships.
GQ
Inside Dallas's New Designer Menswear Mecca
by Garrett Munce
Forty Five Ten has Nick Wooster calling the shots, racks and racks of our favorite labels, and is the reason we’re booking a plane ticket to the Big D.
Collectors Weekly
Mechanical Movements of the Cold War: How the Soviets Revolutionized Wristwatches
by Hunter Oatman-Stanford
"Though it’s hard to believe, there once was a time when workers in the Rust Belt were delighted to have their jobs—and themselves—shipped overseas."
WWD
Rick Owens on Furniture, Fashion and ‘Fairy Witch’ Michele Lamy
by Marcy Medina
Rick Owens discusses his upcoming furniture exhibit at MOCA, fashion and “fairy witch” wife, Michele Lamy.
Man Repeller
Analyzing the Popular Girls of Instagram
by Nicola Fumo
A deep dive into Kelsey Calemin, Sahar Luna and the other popular girls of Instagram.
carts
Vox Product
The New Racked: Aligning Research + Design with New Editorial Strategy
by Britt Aboutaleb, Courtney Leonard and BoheeKim
The brand wanted to become more accessible and inclusive. How are they doing it? The tagline says it all: Shopping, for real life.
High Snobiety
Ader Error On Social Media and Crazy Colors
by Jian DeLeon
We interviewed Ader Error to gain insight behind its inspirations, expert use of color, and building an engaging narrative across multiple platforms.
WWD
Footwear Designer Beverly Feldman on Theresa May's Style Influence
by Natalie Theodosi
Feldman has launched three new versions of the Caliente pumps after May was photographed in them.
The Fashion Law
Quarterly Brand and Influencer Report: The Good, Bad, and Highly Problematic
The rise of the fashion industry influencers has been accompanied by a significant spike in federal truth in advertising law violations, particularly from the fashion industry’s most followed influencers and brands.
Footwear News
Manolo Blahnik To Create Four Collections Per Year
by Samantha Conti
The brand is upping its output from two to four collections aptly titled Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter.
Glossy
Why emerging streetwear companies are operating solely on social media
by Bethany Biron
A select group of smaller, under-the-radar streetwear brands that are thriving by conducting business exclusively on social media platforms -- no buzzy product drops, no flashy media stories.
WGSN
The New App that Pays You to Shop
by Cassandra Napoli
How the former marketing director at eBay created an app that is a shoo-in for cash strapped millennial customers.
South China Morning Post
How Mongolian cashmere is helping sustainable fashion
by Divia Harilela
Ethical brand Maiyet teams up with Hong Kong’s Denise Ho and Chinese designers Helen Lee, Ziggy Chen and Daniel Chen of Xu Zhi to spread the word on socially responsible production.
Vantage Magazine
Modern Times: Shanghai's Golden Era in Magazines, Posters, and Radio
by Coco Shen and Cecilia Chan
Shanghai was a veritable star factory in its golden era of the 1930s. People hungry to know the latest trends were fed by the fashion magazines, posters, records and gramophones.
British Vogue
In Memory of AA Gill
by Christa D'Souza
“You had to be on your mettle, you had to bring something to the table. And you had to be funny. Wherever he went, he always upped the ante.” Christa D’Souza remembers her dear friend, the journalist Adrian Gill.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
via YouTube
"Billi"
Kanda Bongo Man
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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