I have freedom but it's also very relative because I have to develop my business, which has to be successful. I have my obligations to the staff who work in my company but also we have 3,000 people doing our embroideries, so even when I don't feel like doing embroidery for a certain season I need to have this possibility.
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Light rays. Vogue 1966.
(Henry Clarke/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images)
Thursday - December 14, 2017 Thu - 12/14/17
rantnrave:// I've always loved oral histories. We all do here at REDEF. They provide a vital connection to lived experience. They're often funny. They can show an informal side of a creative process, a cultural scene, or a business. In fashion, there's an incredible breadth of stories that cover designer histories, landmark stores, street style photographers, cult magazines, and behind-the-scenes TV shows. What was it like working with supermodels in the '90s? Creating the world of CLUELESS on a limited budget? Breaking racial boundaries with EBONY FASHION FAIR? These are the stories told by those who lived it—on the runway, backstage, and in the atelier. Would love to see more of these in fashion coverage. FashionSET: Glitz and Behind-the-Scenes Grit: Fashion Oral Histories... RACKED has a great story by HILARY GEORGE-PARKIN which looks at the "fake news" problem for retailers selling through FACEBOOK. In yet another grievous turn for social media advertising, fraudulent sellers have been rigging Facebook ads to sell fake goods, or, perhaps worse, to get people to pay for fake goods without actually delivering anything. Per the Racked piece, there's a rabbit hole of policies and regulation that may or may not offer recourse to customers that have been duped. Freebooting videos is a common practice online. Add virality and algorithmic feeds to the mix, and the situation gets messy. The ultimate protection for consumers is to stop shopping ads on social media. That should be incentive enough for companies to fix the problem. Are companies like Facebook properly incentivized to protect end users? Are advertisers? I always appreciate JARON LANIER's thoughts on the subject.... In brief: AZZEDINE ALAÏA: THE COUTURIER," an exhibition the late designer worked on with curator MARK WILSON, will open in spring 2018 at LONDON's DESIGN MUSEUM... The BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL and BRITISH FASHION MODEL AGENCY ASSOCIATION are working together on the "Models First Initiative" to establish guidelines for appropriate working practices... Clearing the cache.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
track record
The Business of Fashion
Meet the Unsung Heroes of the World’s Biggest Fashion Houses
by Osman Ahmed
Fashion has long perpetuated a single creator myth, but behind every great designer is a team of designers, some of them powerhouses in their own right.
Racked
The Fake News of E-Commerce
by Hilary George-Parkin
"Hey everyone! I want to show you how to put the Ultimate Shefit Bra on," says Sara Moylan, holding up a hot pink sports bra printed with her company's logo. With her fitness-competitor physique, she looks like she knows what she's talking about.
Paper
Virgil Abloh's 'Aggressively Creative' Agenda
by Mickey Boardman
Mickey Boardman interviews fashion's most talked-about multitasker.
i-D Magazine
dries van noten tells us about his 2017
by Georgie Wright
With his 100th show, a book, a film, it's safe to say the designer had a very good year.
artnet
How Calvin Klein and Raf Simons Got Unprecedented Access to Andy Warhol's Archive
by Max Berlinger
Calvin Klein and Raf Simons are teaming up with the Warhol Foundation to give the fashion house unprecedented access to the artist's archive.
The Washington Post
Roy Moore rode to the polls as a cowboy after spending an entire campaign in costume
by Robin Givhan
Roy Moore rode to the polls on the American myth. Specifically, he was astride a brown-and-white horse. The Republican candidate for the U.S. Senate was wearing a cowboy hat, jeans and a large signet ring. He arrived at the Alabama polls Tuesday morning in the manner that is his tradition, on the back of a horse named Sassy.
Garage Magazine
Jewelry Designer Tom Binns is Making Stuff Again—But It's Not Jewelry and This Isn't a Comeback!
by Rachel Tashjian
Fashion world favorite Tom Binns has a selection of pieces at Dover Street Market.
Vogue
Why Tokyo’s Top Vintage Shop Is Now Printing Archival Fashion Books, Starting With Raf
by Monica Kim
Tokyo’s Laila turns to publishing with printings.jp, a new site stocking rare printed matter and publishing archival fashion books.
Fashionista
Why the Fashion World Embraced Age Inclusivity in 2017
by Steve Dool
From the runways to magazine covers to red carpets, men and women of all ages were heralded for their style this year - but does this so-called "trend" have staying power?
Racked
How Titanic’s Iconic Necklace Almost Sank the J. Peterman Company
by Elana Fishman
It's been 20 years since we first watched Caledon Hockley fasten the Heart of the Ocean diamond around Rose DeWitt-Bukater's neck, and just as many since we gasped in collective disbelief as an elderly Rose tossed the pendant overboard.
inscription
The New York Times
The Year in Stuff
by Matthew Schneier
It was a year that felt like a decade: 2017 saw the arrival of a new president (and an at-the-ready resistance movement), the unsealing of long-held silences on abuse and consent, a radically new world order and a terrifying spate of natural and human-made disasters (fire, water, terror).
Quartzy
The sports bra: a short history of an undergarment revolution
by Quincey Tickner
As much a high-fashion favorite as a gym necessity, the sports bra has come a long way from its start as two jock straps sewn together.
BBC News
How a Welsh jeans firm became a cult global brand
by Will Smale and Greg Brosnan
Despite being based in a small Welsh town, the Hiut Demin Company is exporting its jeans globally.
Bloomberg
Retailers Still Haven't Caught Up to Millennials
by Barry Ritholtz
Last month I wrote up my annual tirade about the National Retail Federation holiday sales forecast. The NRF's track record -- it uses a deeply flawed methodology -- is terrible. The group makes a silly prediction, I make fun of it, they call me a Grinch, a good time is had by all.
Fashionista
After the 'Retail Apocalypse' of 2017, What's Next?
by Dhani Mau
These five forces are changing the face of retail.
Bloomberg
You're Buying Fancy Jewelry Wrong
by Hannah Elliott
Ah, the holidays. It's the perfect time to buy something significant for a special person-you know, show them you care. And it's the perfect time to freak out about how, exactly, to do it. Jewelry is an intensely personal way to express style, even for men.
AnOther
Inside Prada’s Homage to Tropical Deco and Brazilian Design
by Rhiannon Wastell and Rose Marie Cromwell
Prada’s new concept store in the heart of Miami’s Design District pays tribute to 1960s Brazilian furniture design and the city’s own iconic Art Deco façades
i-D Magazine
Koché Showed Its Pre-fall 18 Collection at NYC's Most Iconic Bookstore
by Emily Manning
The Parisian house celebrated New York City with a little help from its favorite bookstore.
The Business of Fashion
Allbirds Sues Steve Madden
by Chantal Fernandez
The young startup is suing the footwear giant for trade dress infringement, alleging Steve Madden copied its signature wool runners.
Marketplace
How Condé Nast became an entertainment company
by Kai Ryssdal and Bridget Bodnar
Dawn Ostroff is President of Condé Nast Entertainment and she's charged with getting the publisher to think beyond magazines.
MUSIC OF THE DAY
YouTube
"The Sun and the Rainfall"
Depeche Mode
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
@JasonHirschhorn


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