The fashion business and show business have more than a few things in common. They are full of richness and pageantry, giving even the casual viewer something interesting to watch... Both depend on creative people and sell that ephemeral quality called talent; the result is that — even for seasoned professionals — a performance can be brilliant, controversial, uneven, merely competent or, alas, inadequate. Occasionally, there is a heartwarming comeback, and there are always talented newcomers on the way up.
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The rush backstage. Kenzo Takada and model during S/S 1992 prêt-à-porter, Oct. 20, 1991.
(John van Hasselt/Sygma/Getty Images)
Tuesday - December 19, 2017 Tue - 12/19/17
rantnrave:// Young people have galvanized the streetwear movement, and their inventiveness and entrepreneurialism—writing bots, cataloging drops, trading and reselling online—has brought mainstream awareness and investment. There have been countless stories of young people's involvement (often online) in international matters of business, commerce, and politics, with some, like the MIRAI botnet, resulting in unintended consequences. But what about fans that don't fall into that cultural construct of "kids"? What of the fans of middle age, those refreshing their browsers on the latest drop from a corporate office park in a sun-drenched suburban city, or hip septuagenarians with local ties to the first SUPREME store? Two profiles on streetwear enthusiasts from DAZED and HIGHSNOBIETY confound preconceived notions of just who fuels the international fervor for streetwear. LANCE WALSH, is a London-based proprietor of a street-side fruit stall (age 57, INSTAGRAM followers: 30k), and another, CHARLES ALLCROFT, is a former art history professor, performance artist, and STRAND warehouse employee (age 73). Both profiles are refreshing proof that there is no typical picture of a streetwear fan. 2017 has been something of a banner year for streetwear. With streetwear's further entry into the mainstream, CALUM GORDON poses the question of whether it can maintain its cool amid rapid expansion. Good question. Looking back at how retro sportswear, streetwear, and fashion have flirted with each other in the past, I came across this NYT article from 1995 by AMY SPINDLER. Spindler found that "as designer attention has turned away from street style, there is the sense that existing outside that spotlight has made street style irrelevant," and that streetwear had begun following fashion in a kind of role reversal. It was a much different time, but if streetwear were to take cues from fashion in 2018, what would that look like? Is it already happening in some capacity?... After the devastating loss of its founder, MAISON ALAÏA will continue on with runway shows in January and March. A foundation has been established to preserve the designer’s legacy. Here's hoping there is some form of endowment to keep it that way... Briefs: VIRGIL ABLOH will have an exhibition at MCA CHICAGO in 2019... More updates on USA denim manufacturing... Catching up with MARK BRIDGES, costume designer of PHANTOM THREAD.
- HK Mindy Meissen, curator
telltale
Vogue
Fabulous Human Rick Owens Discusses His New Milan Retrospective, 'Subhuman, Inhuman, Superhuman'
by Tiziana Cardini
The Rick Owens retrospective “Subhuman, Inhuman, Superhuman” at Milan’s Triennale opens December 15, 2017 and closes March 25, 2018.
Racked
The Real Problem With Nike's Ripping NBA Jerseys
by Nadra Nittle
Karen Leonas is a professor at North Carolina State University's College of Textiles, but she wants to know my uninformed opinion of clothing made from recycled plastic. "What's the first thing you think of when you hear about clothing made out of plastic bottles?" she asks me.
GQ Style
Check Out Our Fashion Story at Fela Kuti’s New Afrika Shrine in Lagos, Nigeria
by Edwin STATS Houghton and Andrew Dosunmu
The world has a handful of musical meccas, none more sacred than Fela Kuti's New Afrika Shrine In Lagos, Nigeria. We made a pilgrimage to shoot a fashion story with the local kids who hang out there-and to pay homage to the Black President himself.
Highsnobiety
Streetwear Was Big Business in 2017, But is That a Good Thing?
by Calum Gordon
For streetwear, where the concept of cool is imperative to success, the year of 2017 has posed somewhat of an existential paradox.
The New York Times
RETRO READ: Flip-Flop: The Runway Leads the Street
by Amy M. Spindler
Like a professional virgin, street style has always claimed to resent the attention of designer suitors. Punks in London fought against having their attire appropriated and charged to have their photographs taken. Grunge rockers satirized the designers who borrowed their thrift-shop look and gave it four-digit prices.
ELLE
This Is Your Brain on Vetiver
by April Long
What color does your signature scent smell like? The answer might provide a whole new way of thinking about--and wearing--fragrance.
WWD
Maison Alaïa to Continue With Collections, Exhibitions
by Katya Foreman
The next ready-to-wear and accessories collections will be presented in January and March.
SSENSE
Listen Slowly: Brendon Babenzien Talks the Labor of Love Behind Noah’s Collaboration with The Cure
by Erika Houle
Following the release of his latest capsule collection, Noah founder and designer Brendon Babenzien explains his homage to the iconic British rock band.
Garage Magazine
The Last Days of Colette
by Cody Delistraty
How did the legendary Paris concept store, which closes this week, make a business out of "cool"?
Glossy
Why Matches Fashion is investing more in shoppable video
by Hilary Milnes
It wasn't until Matches Fashion started seeing results that the online luxury retailer began investing more in its in-house video creation team. This year, Matches expanded its video team from one employee to six to support a marketing agenda that aims to produce about one video per week.
superannuated
Highsnobiety
Meet 73-Year-Old Streetwear God Charles Allcroft
by Jian DeLeon
Proof that streetwear enthusiasts come in many forms, Charles Allcroft got his "Mr. 630" nickname from a Supreme shop guy who noted when he'd come by.
Dazed Digital
Meet London's 57-year-old fruit seller decked out in all the latest Supreme
by Tom Usher
We meet a unique streetwear devotee, with fans as far away as Asia and 30,000 followers on Instagram.
WWD
Diesel, Nicola Formichetti Part Ways
by Luisa Zargani and Rosemary Feitelberg
Formichetti joined Diesel in 2013 as the brand’s first artistic director.
Fashionista
How 2017's Top-Level Editorial Changes Will Affect the Future of Fashion Publishing
by Steve Dool
"More legacy media companies should take notice and hire young, non-white, non-male or cisgender people at the top."
The Cut
Meet the Official Workwear Brand of Powerful Women
by Kiki Georgiou
Argent’s clients include Gloria Steinem and Hillary Clinton.
Put This On
Digging in the Crates: Talking with Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers
by putthison
Wooden Sleepers is the kind of store I wish was near me. Brian Davis, the shop's founder, has been around the menswear scene forever, but first opened his shop seven years ago on Etsy.
Fashionista
The 'Star Wars: The Last Jedi' Costume Designer Looked to Queen Elizabeth II to Dress Carrie Fisher
by Fawnia Soo Hoo
"I wanted her to look as beautiful and regal as possible," said Michael Kaplan, about Princess Leia in her Resistance-leading capes.
The Fashion Law
Breaking Down the Stan Smith
Adidas has been on a tear over its famous three-stripe trademark, threatening, and in many cases filing (or causing the filing of) trademark infringement lawsuits with brands ranging from Marc Jacobs and Gucci to --Juicy Couture and Forever 21.
Racked
Mall of America Gets High-Tech With Chatbot and Humanoid Robots
by Nadra Nittle
Want to know how it feels to walk through a labyrinth? Drop by any large mall, the more unfamiliar, the better. But at the nation's largest shopping center, the Mall of America in Minnesota, a chatbot can intervene before you find yourself wandering the premises like a lost child.
Bloomberg
How Retailers Can Make E-Commerce Delivery Less Awful
by Sarah Halzack
With the holiday shopping frenzy in full swing, there's a reasonable chance you'll experience some sort of e-commerce-related headache in the next week or two. Maybe one of your packages will be stolen. Maybe a gift will end up damaged after it sits on your stoop in the rain for hours.
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I Had a Choice
“REDEF is dedicated to my mother, who nurtured and encouraged my interest in everything and slightly regrets the day she taught me to always ask ‘why?’”
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