I hope when women wear Céline they feel confident and strong. I guess there is a bit of a political statement behind Céline, which is that we should be teaching young girls to feel good. | | | | Palermo. Vogue 1955.
(Henry Clarke/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | |  | “I hope when women wear Céline they feel confident and strong. I guess there is a bit of a political statement behind Céline, which is that we should be teaching young girls to feel good.”
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| | rantnrave:// Designers have swept in and out of luxury labels so frequently that, in addition to consistent chatter about PHOEBE PHILO's exit from CÉLINE, the move isn't entirely surprising. It feels almost procedural as much as it is disheartening. Philo's reach into wider fashion—as a bearer of sensibility, design, and what people want to wear on any given day or decade—is immeasurable. Céline's rise after Philo's arrival was sensational, with cult handbags and style that was endlessly mimicked and diffused, from mass market to the runway. There was a soulfulness to the clothes, and a sense of time and care put into the label—offering women design based on principles of quality, ease, and sophistication. Philo consistently struck those chords. In recent years, Céline has been more of a stalwart presence, offering a sense of stability and calm amid increasingly aggressive bids for (increasingly shorter bouts of) time and attention. In 2017, a sense of tranquility feels like the ultimate luxury, but under fashion as a driven business, consistency can sometimes feel like its own risk. CATHY HORYN wrote a wonderful piece connecting Philo’s departure to a wider cultural respect for time. Can fashion, which trades on the time it takes to create beautiful things worn on the body, buy itself more time? Will fashion media turn into a tracker for designer refresh rates? There is now a chance for Céline to evolve. Yet defining a new era for the label will be like filling a gulf… The turnaround of plus-size retailer ASHLEY STEWART has all the heroics of a folk legend: a business in a state of dilapidation and bankruptcy, with demoralized employees and a dismal future, turns around to become a beacon of retail success. It's a story settled against a backdrop of the plus-size movement, underestimated customers, and the personal dedication of CEO JAMES RHEE. And ICYMI, ROBIN GIVHAN's story on the company is a pleasure to read for its focus on Rhee's efforts to connect the company to people: customers and employees… In brief: T MAGAZINE selects 9 emerging brands... Behind-the-scenes video from the SACAI x UNDERCOVER runway show in TOKYO. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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 | The Cut |
| Philo is a designer for a slower era. | | |
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 | The New York Times |
| Weird food preferences, obsessive behavior, enabling of monstrous behavior: How accurate is the film “Phantom Thread” when it comes to designers? | | |
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 | Bloomberg |
| Photographer: Malike Sidibe for Bloomberg Businessweek Chary Wright knows that for bigger women, shopping for clothes can be rough. Until a few years ago, some mainstream retailers didn't carry anything larger than a size 12. Stores that did might have stocked only one or two pieces. | | |
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 | Racked |
| As insults go, making fun of someone's fashion sense is tempting, low-hanging fruit. The jokes come fast, and they feel cutting and true because clothing reveals how we want others to see us. Fashion-related jabs that might seem cruel in everyday life are, however, broadly considered fair game in the political realm. | | |
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 | Quartzy |
| In China, you don’t really see the same “Disney-fication” of animals that you often see in the West, a fur industry spokesman says. | | |
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 | HERO magazine |
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 | INDIE Magazine |
| With the city often described as a vibrant creative hub, we ask four Berlin fashion students about their icons, creative process and future visions. | | |
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 | CityLab |
| The suburban Detroit mall set architectural standards for half a century. Now, partially demolished, its next life is up in the air. | | |
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 | Hunger Magazine |
| Nabil Nayal is your new favourite designer. | | |
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| Racked |
| For her winter 2017 FabFitFun box, JoJo Fletcher kicks off her Instagram Story not with the box's contents, but by goofing around with her favorite face filters, on her and fiance Jordan Rodgers (the high-pitched kitty voice is one of her favorites). | | |
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 | SSENSE |
| Haley Mlotek talks with Jezebel’s culture editor, Julianne Escobedo Shepherd, about her early fashion inspirations and education. | | |
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 | Marketplace |
| Band T-shirts from the '90s are hot right now. Really hot. | | |
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 | Fashionista |
| Patrik Milani worked closely with series creator, executive producer and Chicago native, the Emmy-winning Lena Waithe, to show the neighborhood in a different light. | | |
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 | i-D Magazine |
| As she celebrates a decade of her eponymous label, the birth of her second child, and her return to the London catwalk, the designer reflects on her eventful year. | | |
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 | WSJ |
| Amazon.com is aiming to ship each order in one correctly sized package, responding to rising costs and consumers’ concerns about the environmental impact of all that cardboard. | | |
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| The New York Times |
| Boxing Day has a new meaning in the era of e-commerce: packing and shipping or lugging back stuff bought in those gleeful clicking sprees. | | |
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 | BBC |
| Cotton is once again back on the production line in Greater Manchester after 40 years. | | |
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 | The Rake |
| Heavily influenced by Europe and American Ivy League style, tailoring has always played a huge role in Japan’s sartorial landscape. | | |
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 | Glossy |
| For most beauty-fiends who have a sizable following on YouTube or Instagram, scoring big partnerships or a six-figure salary is a long shot, and the road to getting there isn’t all buzzy partnerships and glamour shots. | | |
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 | WWD |
| A decade of near total creative control at Gucci and later Yves Saint Laurent saw Tom Ford at the top of his design game - critics swooned, celebrities wore and people bought, a rare trifecta in high fashion. | | |
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 | YouTube |
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