Catwalks embrace the giant jumper
When the forecast is fickle, grab a jumper – and wear it any way you want | The Guardian

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The 16Arlington show at London fashion week.
camera It’s a wrap … the 16Arlington show at London fashion week. Photograph: REX/Shutterstock

When the forecast is fickle, grab a jumper – and wear it any way you want

Call it fuzzy logic, but a new season trend for recasting giant knitwear pieces as coats is surprisingly accessible. Plus, your style questions answered

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As we enter the third week of fashion month (ciao Milano!), a trend has quickly emerged as a clear frontrunner on and off the catwalks. Wearing a jumper not as it was originally intended to be worn is being championed by everyone from Michael Kors to the street-style set.

At 16Arlington – the London brand best known for its glitzy evening wear and loved by Hailey Bieber and Olivia Rodrigo – fuzzy mohair jumpers were tied around models’ necks, engulfing them as if they were wearing giant scarves. Some models wore nothing else but a gargantuan jumper covering their torso; others wore tailored coats, one half covered by a jumper; others wore a second mohair jumper in a contrasting colour in the traditional way.

At Proenza Schouler in New York, models looked as if they were in the process of getting dressed as they walked down the catwalk with their arms hanging out of funnel-neck jumpers that had been turned on their sides.

Elsewhere, the Irish designer Robyn Lynch popped double-knotted cable knits over the shoulders of sporty technical jackets, while Jonathan Anderson (the designer behind those Wellipets frog boots) showed jumpers with in-built matching colour crew necks that gave the illusion of being sloppily tied around the waist.

Off-kilter knitwear at the Michael Kors show in New York last week.
camera Wrappers delight … Off-kilter knitwear at the Michael Kors show in New York last week. Photograph: Pixelformula/SIPA/Rex/Shutterstock

It’s rare for a new season trend to be so accessible. All you need is a woolly jumper and some wrapping skills. On social media you’ll find tutorials on how to create the perfect knot. Similar to the chunky cable knits at Michael Kors, turning the jumper so it’s slightly off-kilter is “key”, according to influencers. There are myriad styling options, from the classic knot over shoulders to “seatbelting” – where the jumper is knotted over one shoulder to lie diagonally across the body.

Similar to how streetwear brands such as Aimé Leon Dore have democratised varsity staples such as rugby shirts and collegiate-inspired suiting, the trend also subverts its traditional Wasp-y connotations. Gen Z have put their own spin on the classic knotted-over-shoulders look, moving it on from the preppy elite with their perma-tans and moorings on the French Riviera. Instead of signifying a certain type of class, it now nods to particular fashion subcultures on TikTok, including “academia-core”.

This amount of attention on jumpers might sound a bit bonkers but it’s surprisingly practical. Similar to the erratic weather that “sprautumn” throws up, as winter slowly merges with spring, a spare jumper that you can turn into a scarf on demand is ideal when the forecast is fickle – rather than, say, schlepping around with an actual giant blanket scarf. It’s a trend that clearly has legs. On Wednesday, Fendi kicked off Milan fashion week with several looks featuring twisty tied jumpers. Swaddle season here we come.

The Measure

What’s hot – and what’s most definitely not – this week

From left, Phoebe Philo’s daughter walks Burberry, the candle stack and the pinkie ring in One Day.
camera From left: Phoebe Philo’s daughter walks Burberry, the candle stack and the pinkie ring in One Day. Composite: Shutterstock/Stan Editions/AP

Going up

Nodels | There’s a new recruit in the nepo-baby posse of models. At London fashion week, Phoebe Philo’s daughter, Maya Wigram, made her modelling debut, closing the Burberry show.

Whale-tail regret | Dua Lipa may be trying to bring back the exposed G-string, but a new study reports the 1990s whale-tail trend is actually one of the most regretted fashion choices of all time.

Signet rings | Similar to Connell’s chain, Dexter’s silver pinky ring in the Netflix show One Day series is causing the internet to lose its mind.

Going down

Wild swimming | At-home cold-plunge pools are hot. Rather than filling a wheelie bin with ice, some people are opting for five-figure versions in stainless steel and chrome.

Candle sticks | The new mantelpiece must-have is a candle stack. Build your own with Stan Editions’ staggered shapes.

Bubble baths | Just when you think we’ve reached peak Saltburn mania, Lush release a “Saltbomb”, featuring coconut and patchouli for “silky, milky waters”. Ewww.

Reads of the week

The runway of Paul Costelloe, which showed at the first London fashion week 40 years ago.
camera The runway of Paul Costelloe, which showed at the first London fashion week 40 years ago. Photograph: Jeff Spicer/Getty Images

Vogue Business says London fashion week is growing up.

Is the Row’s Margaux bag the next Birkin?

Dig out your old Vogues. The Financial Times explores a booming market for vintage magazines.

Vice asks: Would you buy a house with your best friend?

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Style Clinic

Chloe Mac Donnell, deputy fashion editor, solves your wardrobe dilemmas

White shirt and camo-cargo trousers (£175 each) from Me+Em.
camera White shirt and camo-cargo trousers (£175 each) from Me+Em. Photograph: Me+Em

Q: How can I make a white shirt look less ‘office-y’? – Catherine, Brighton

A: Consider pairing clashing genres such as sportswear and knitwear. A knitted cardigan or jumper worn over an untucked shirt is an easy starting point. At her most recent show in Paris, the British menswear designer Grace Wales Bonner placed athletic sweatshirts and sleeveless varsity vests over buttoned-up shirts. And in its latest lookbook, Me+Em styles casual camo trousers (pictured) with a black vest and unbuttoned white shirt instead of jeans or tailored trousers.

Got your own style question? Send it to fashionstatement@theguardian.com.

 

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