L’Oréal snapped up Aesop | London’s listings market ran dry |

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Today's big stories

  1. L’Oréal’s rejuvenating itself with a fancy new purchase – luxury skincare brand Aesop
  2. Here’s why investors are ditching ESG-focused funds – Read Now
  3. London’s listings market has been struck by a drought

Skin In The Game

Skin In The Game

What’s Going On Here?

Cosmetics colossus L’Oréal announced this week that it’s buying Aesop, the luxury skincare brand.

What Does This Mean?

L'Oréal used its tried-and-tested acquisition strategy when it snapped up CeraVe, a budget skincare company, back in 2017: nab a smaller brand, give it a makeover and an international rollout, and – ahem – rinse and repeat. But Aesop's cult global following and $500 million plus in annual sales seems to have prompted a strategy reconditioning by L'Oréal. After all, the firm really dug deep for this one: it took months of negotiations before L'Oréal outshone competitors with a deal valuing Aesop at $2.5 billion. That cash injection could save the skin of the high-end brand’s former owner, Natura, too – helping the company trim its debt and focus on the other businesses it owns.

Why Should I Care?

The bigger picture: Aesop’s fabled riches.
It’s no wonder that L'Oréal had Aesop in its crosshairs. After Natura bought it in 2013, the brand shot past its other ventures – like Avon and Body Shop – at hair-raising speed to become the firm’s most profitable business. And just last year Aesop scored another touchdown, with a debut in China that overshot everyone’s expectations. That bodes pretty well for growth markets like India, Japan, and South Korea – and if anyone's got the smarts and the global distribution prowess needed to drive further expansion, it could be L'Oréal.

Zooming out: Slip me some skin.
Skincare’s a pretty glossy sector right now, with estimates valuing the industry at $150 billion back in 2021 and tipping it to almost double come 2031. And those towering figures make sense: after all, consumers are increasingly health-conscious these days, especially post-pandemic – and the aging West is likely to buy more anti-aging products as folks fight off wrinkles, eyebags, and crow’s feet en masse. Plus, with environmental consciousness on the rise too, Aesop’s eco-friendly elixirs of youth could be a very clever bet indeed.

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Analyst Take

Investors Are Ditching ESG-Focused Funds, But They Might Be Missing A Trick

Investors Are Ditching ESG-Focused Funds, But They Might Be Missing A Trick

By Russell Burns, Analyst

Investors once flung themselves into funds focused on environmental, social, and corporate governance (ESG) factors.

They may have been swayed by the idea of making the world a better place, and they were almost definitely enchanted by the prospect of higher returns

But they’re fleeing the scene now that regulators are clamping down on so-called “greenwashing” – and political division and underperforming funds won’t have helped either. 

So I’ve dug into the details to work out whether ESG’s just an overpriced label, or exactly what the world and its portfolios have been crying out for.

That’s today’s Insight: why investors are ditching ESG-focused funds, and why you might want to think twice before you follow in their (carbon) footprints.

Read or listen to the Insight here

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Lon-Done

Lon-Done

What’s Going On Here?

Data out on Tuesday showed that London’s initial public offering (IPO) market has shriveled even more dramatically than its peers.

What Does This Mean?

Listings have been a tough nut to crack for everyone this year, but London's IPO scene is looking especially dismal. See, New York and Europe's IPOs may have raised the least dough since 2016 and 2020 respectively, but that still amounts to $3.5 billion in the US and $2.2 billion in Europe. In London, though, that figure’s a measly $14 million – yes, “million” with an M – raised on the back of three titchy listings. That means the British market’s hit a 14-year low, and raised less than 1% of what either counterpart has scraped together. As for why: try Brexit blues, political mayhem, and economic hiccups – a mix that has firms and investors wondering if London's got the moxie to remain Europe's central financial hub.

Why Should I Care?

For markets: A tale of two cities.
That lack of investor appetite is a big deal: one key valuation measure puts the S&P 500 at almost double the FTSE 100 right now, and that’s got serious implications. Just take a look at SoftBank-owned Arm: the firm decided to list solely in New York, despite pleas and sweet talk from the British government. And it’s not just new listings, either: some publicly traded firms, like CRH, are packing their bags and moving their primary listings, ditching Big Ben for the Big Apple.

Zooming out: Cheer up, chaps.
It’s not all bad news for Britain. The pound was actually the best performing developed-market currency in the quarter that just ended, and it celebrated that feat with a little victory dance on Tuesday – shimmying up to its highest levels since June. Brits have probably got the unexpectedly resilient economy to thank: Deutsche Bank no longer even sees the country’s economy shrinking this year.

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💬 Quote of the day

“We write to taste life twice, in the moment and in retrospect.”

– Anaïs Nin (a French-Cuban American diarist, essayist, and novelist)
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🎯 On Our Radar

  1. Artificial intimacy. The world isn’t ready for hot and steamy AI.
  2. Maybe you’re the toxic one. But don’t worry, you can fix that.
  3. Up and running. A long-awaited VR treadmill is finally ready to ship.
  4. They literally suck. Scientists have reported a new mosquito species in Florida.
  5. Freezing for fitness. Wellness devotees are living life at -166°F (-110°C).
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