Magical Morocco

Good evening
Think of Morocco and it's the sights and sounds of the souks of Marrakech that likely spring to mind. The labyrinthine markets, selling everything from spices to slippers, and the city’s atmospheric riads offering a welcome respite from the bustle, have been luring visitors for centuries.
But, as the writers of a new guide to the wilder side of the country reveal, there’s so much more to discover, from forgotten beaches to ancient citadels. The Anti-Atlas mountains, for example, offer terrain that runs from lush oases to rocky gorges, with Tanalt a hotspot for canyoning, and great hikes and cycling around Tafraoute.
Instead of the more visited Atlantic resorts of Essaouira and Agadir, the authors suggest checking out the Mediterranean coast between Al Hoceïma and the Nador headland, an area of isolated coves and fortress-topped cliffs. Plage Ihttaryen is a favourite beach: “Hidden from view behind two enormous red cliffs, it’s an idyllic spot, with crystalline waves lapping against the pebble shore”.
Elsewhere, the Sahara offers dramatic landscapes of soaring dunes with the chance to sleep out in the desert. The village of Khamlia, one of the best places to hear Gnawa musicians - the descendants of enslaved nomads who migrated to Khamlia from Sudan, Mali and Niger - is a highlight not to miss.
For another piece, our writer Kevin Rushby heads to the north-east of Morocco to explore the maze of medinas of Fez. “All the colours, tastes, sounds and sights are sprinkled with a magical leavening of adrenaline and the whole lot rises up like some delicious cake in the oven,” he writes. He continues to Tétouan, on the coast, and the blue town of Chefchaouen, both home to similarly appealing labyrinths: “apparently designed by a medieval sorcerer with contributions from mind-bending artist Maurits Escher”. Getting lost and having random encounters is all part of the fun.