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IN THIS EMAIL
  • How the Nunavut Quest dogsled race is reviving a once-threatened tradition
  • A map of a prehistoric ridge that once spanned the width of Lake Huron
  • A first-of-its-kind field school in Iqaluktuuttiaq (Cambridge Bay), Nunavut that is studying Arctic snow
  • An Ocean Quest Adventure including iceberg viewing, kayaking, a local tour and more
  • Cunard: The official luxury cruise line of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society
The Nunavut Quest dogsled race is revitalizing a once-threatened tradition
Inside the 500-kilometre dogsled race across the High Arctic with the qimuksiqtiit who are sharing their knowledge with the next generation

Story and photography by Dustin Patar
Qimuksiqti Terry Uyarak draws closer to the finish of the second leg of the 2022 Nunavut Quest dogsled race.

It was cold, colder than usual for the time of year. Some 45 kilometres to the northeast, the Ikpiarjuk (Arctic Bay) airport would tally the low of minus 31.8 C as the coldest April 18 of the last 20 years. But the sun was shining, a clear indication that the darkness and true chill of winter had been washed away by the embrace of an early High Arctic spring.

Here, at the frozen mouth of the Iqalulik river on the northwestern corner of Qikiqtaaluk (Baffin Island), a small camp began to take shape. Not so slowly, a mix of well-worn white canvas tents seemed to pop out of the equally white sea ice, joined by others of bright orange and yellow.

As the tents went up, organized activity flurried around them. Plywood, blankets, sleeping bags and stoves were pulled from their resting places deep inside the qamutiit (traditional Inuit sleds) and placed inside the tents. A small number of saw-or shovel-wielding campers ventured out to where the sea of snow drifts was undisturbed, seeking the best snow and ice for drinking and cooking water. Another group, also gripping saws and axes, chopped whole frozen Arctic char and seals into small, manageable portions for dogs. Those too young to help out kicked a soccer ball through the snow.

Keep reading
Life before Lake Huron

An underwater drone is helping reconstruct submerged landscapes inhabited by people in the early Holocene

By Chris Brackley with text by Jake O'Flaherty
A drone photograph shows the shores of present-day Lake Huron. (Photo: Rob Smolenaars/Can Geo Photo Club)

Approaching the beach town of Goderich, Ont., you’ll travel through rolling farmland and pasture. Suppose that once you reach Lake Huron, you continue northeast towards Michigan. Travel past the sandy beaches, and plunge below the clear water to the lakebed to ride along a shallow ridge with two deeper basins flanking either side. In this spot roughly 10,000 years ago, you would have been standing on dry land. And if you listened closely, you probably would have heard the thundering of caribou hooves, or the celebration of a successful hunt.

In the early 2000s, John O’Shea, an archeologist at the University of Michigan, first spotted this conspicuous ridge running the width of Lake Huron, from Alpena, Michigan, to Amberley, Ont., on a detailed bathymetric map. A boat trip using side-scan sonar revealed structures along the ridge that appeared to be human-made. His team of researchers and divers quickly began exploring the Alpena-Amberley Ridge. At the Drop 45 site, they identified a series of stone structures where migrating animals would have bottlenecked on the once-dry ridge, including stacked stones that created a “funnel lane” to corral caribou and blinds where hunters would await their prey unseen.

Keep reading
Hopes for the first field school for Arctic snow

Researchers, students and hunters are coming together in Iqaluktuuttiaq (Cambridge Bay) to learn from each other about snow in the High Arctic.

By Meral Jamal

Sentinel North Field School on Arctic Marine Ecosystems Services brought together 40 scientists from different disciplines such as physics, marine biology, biochemistry, and human health onboard the Canadian research icebreaker CCGS Amundsen in 2018, in Baffin Bay and Qikiqtarjuaq, Nunavut. (Photo: Sentinel North, Université Laval)

Alexandre Langlois remembers the first field school for snow he attended more than two decades ago. It was 2002. He was a graduate student and the school was taking place in Rovaniemi and Kilpisjärvi in Finland.

Langlois can recall the feelings and the friendships vividly. “The excitement, the passion of the students — it really reflects how we were at that age.”

Flash forward to today and the University of Sherbrooke professor is co-lead for a snow school taking place here in Canada — at the Canadian High Arctic Research Station (CHARS) in Iqaluktuuttiaq (Cambridge Bay), Nunavut, from April 1 to 8.

Keep reading
TRAVEL WITH CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 
Featured trip: Consummate Explorer Package

Join Rick and Johnny O, Fellows of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society and expedition leaders, on the Consummate Explorer package with Ocean Quest Adventures. Staged at Ocean Quest Lodge, guests are immersed in a week full of activities, culture, true Newfoundland hospitality and the highlights of

Newfoundland coastal living. The trip starts with an Ocean Safari which may include icebergs, whales, cod fishing and dinner prepared by a local chef, and progresses to include kayaking, a local tour to either the world famous Bell Island Mines or the South Dildo Whaling & Sealing Museum, local musical entertainment and snorkelling. At the end of each fun filled day, we regroup at Ocean Quest Lodge to debrief, share stories and revel in the joy of Newfoundland’s musical entertainment. 

Meet your ambassador: Rick Stanley

Learn more
Get inspired!
Waking up with the whales on Quirpon Island, Newfoundland

Quirpon Island has long been a favourite off-grid getaway for in-the-know travellers. Now, the Quirpon Lighthouse Inn is doubling down on its biggest draws: whales and icebergs.

By Karen Burshtein

Check out these other upcoming trips:

- Salish Sea Expedition with Maple Leaf Adventures
- Vancouver to Whistler Cultural Hiking Journey with Marlis Butcher 

- Annapurna Sanctuary Photography Trek with Javier Frutos

Luxury on water: The official luxury cruise line of the RCGS
Cunard’s new partnership with the Royal Canadian Geographical Society will feature experts on every voyage in the 2023 Alaska season as part of Cunard's renowned Insights enrichment program. In 2023, Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth will spend her summer in Alaska, offering seven voyages roundtrip out of Vancouver, ranging from seven to 12 nights. Itineraries include scenic cruising through the Inside Passage, Glacier Bay National Park, Hubbard Glacier, Tracy Arm Fjord, as well as full days in several ports including Juneau, Ketchikan, Skagway, Sitka and Icy Strait Point.
 
Speakers include CEO John Geiger, best-selling author, speaker and adventurer; Joseph Frey, scuba diver and former officer with the Royal Canadian Navy; Jill Heinerth, underwater cave diver, explorer, author and educator; Lynn Moorman, an expert in physical geography, advanced digital mapping and geospatial technologies; Canada’s record-holder for time spent on space walks, astronaut Dave Williams; and extreme weather expert, George Kourounis. To learn more about Cunard and specific voyages, visit www.cunard.com.
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