‘You don’t have to rope cattle to be a cowboy’ – ranchers on fashion’s love of a western-style boot

When John Travolta swaggered on to screens as Bud Davis in the 1980 hit film Urban Cowboy, he brought western fashion to the masses. Forty-three years later, we are in the midst of a resurgence.

The high street looks more and more like a honky-tonk, with many iterations of double denim and fringed jackets. But it’s the cowboy boot that has really kicked off.

Retailers in the US and UK reportedly introduced more new styles of cowboy boots this year than they did in 2022, according to retail analyst company Edited. Haute editions have appeared on catwalks, from Chloé to Coach, while luxury e-tailers such as Matches have introduced brands that specialise in cowboy boots including the Spanish-based Toral. Last month, Crocs saddled up with the release of a limited-edition pair of black rubber cowboy boots with removable rubber spurs. They sold out within hours.

Even M&S has several heeled leather boots, which the high street giant says can bring a “whisper of the wild west to your outfit.” Dune, meanwhile, has expanded its offering of cowboy boots to include 25 styles, while sales are up 200% compared with this time last year. A silver metallic pair continues to be a bestseller.

On TikTok, the hashtag #cowboyboots has been viewed more than 1bn times. Users reference everything from the hit TV show Yellowstone, which follows a family feud on the largest ranch in the US, to Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour, where metallic cowboy boots became a fan fixture.

It’s a trend that has as much appeal to gen Z models as it does to presidential candidates. Bella Hadid and her rumoured new boyfriend, Adan Banuelos, an actual cowboy, have been pictured in matching cowboy boots. Meanwhile, the 45-year-old Florida governor Ron DeSantis, who has turned cowboy boots into his style signature on the 2024 campaign trail, has been accused of using hidden padding within them to secretly boost his height.

But while both Hadid and DeSantis grew up on working ranches, many of today’s wearers have never touched a horse, never mind herded cattle. So what do real cowboys and heritage makers think of the trend, and what can they teach us about the real deal?

“Cowboy boots were originally used as a survival tool,” says Bryce Albright, a self-described cowgirl and executive director of the Dude Ranchers’ Association in Texas. Albright points out that the shaft of boot, the portion that covers the lower leg, is longer on traditional boots as it acts as a barrier against horse kicks and rattlesnake bites.

Fireball Bill Meeks, from Republic Boots, which creates custom boots, flags that many high-street boots are made from synthetic materials and plastic. “A boot off the shelf is made to fit the masses. You can pull them on really easily and there’s a lot of cushioning … Whereas when you put on a custom boot made from real leather, it’s like wearing a slipper.”

These versions are also built to last. “Traditional cowboy boots are like a tattoo – you’re going to have them for a long time,” says Alie Twigger, whose Texas-based company Heritage Boots, produces handmade “authentic working boots which are built to last”. While rubber is more durable, leather is the preferred sole among ranch workers because it lets your foot slip easily out of the stirrup in an emergency.

While the heel height of both luxury fashion and high-street brands’ boots varies from completely flat to five inches high, experts say the standard in Texas is 1.5 inches (ahem, Ron DeSantis). This helps the wearer stay in the stirrup.

Another common thread between traditional or custom boots and fashion versions is detailed stitching and contrasting colours. On traditional cowboy boots the stitching is practical, providing extra rigidity, but it is an aesthetic feature as well. “In the past, cowboys would take a piece of leather to patch up their boots with. Some would work on it in the evenings, and those patches became really ornate,” says Twigger. “That’s why you often see floral patterns, snakes and cattle heads. It’s what they were surrounded with.”

How do cowboys feel about being considered style icons? “It probably bothers a lot of others in my area, as there is a lot of pride in being a cowboy. You are part of a club,” says Tucker Brown, a cowboy and sixth generation rancher on the RA Brown Ranch. “But personally I like it. It’s brought a lot of attention to the culture and lifestyle. It’s cool [that] through our attire we are getting recognised for the hard work we do.”

So can we expect to see Crocs cowboy boots taking off in Texas? “I don’t begrudge anyone that wants to wear them but they can’t be called cowboy boots,” say Meeks. “They are like galoshes with holes in them.” Brown would, he says, “wear them for a Halloween costume”, while Albright’s concerns tend to the practical: “I’m sure they are comfortable but if a horse steps on you, you’re going to get hurt,” she says.

As for possible accusations of cosplaying, Meeks says 80% of his customers don’t work on ranches. “You don’t have to ride horses and rope cattle to be a cowboy. Being a cowboy is what’s inside your heart.”

What’s hot – and what’s most definitely not – this week

Going up

Coffee badging | The new corporate power move. Rather than commit to a full day at the office, you just show face, grab a coffee and get a tick next to your name.

The Animals of Farthing Wood | Fashion is leaning heavily into fauna prints for winter. Daniel Lee has done ducks at Burberry, there’s chicks and piglets at Christopher Kane and this week JW Anderson and Uniqlo’s collab unveiled sheep and squirrels.

Lanyards | Phoebe Philo has given the humble tether a high fashion makeover. Her sold-out take comes with hand-cut glass pendants, all for a casual £1,400.

Wonky couple costumes | Halloween has been awash with looks where one member of a couple looks high-glam and the other … less so. See Heidi Klum and her husband, Tom Kaulitz, for the perfect example. She dressed as a resplendent peacock, roping in Cirque de Soleil performers as the plumage. He came as an egg.

Going down

Stocking fillers | If Goop is to be believed, then a £1,390 Hermes dog house, a £15,000 tulip vase and a POA airship cruise to the North Pole are the kind of “ridiculous but awesome” gifts we should be exchanging this holiday season.

Celebrity break-up statements | Much easier to just unfollow each other on Instagram and let social media do the talking.

Foundation | Pamela Anderson says the only thing she wore on her face during Paris fashion week was homemade rosehip oil from her garden.

Lavender oil | TikTok’s new favourite sleep hack is cognitive shuffling. Users suggest going through the alphabet and naming a random thing for each letter, then starting at A again until Z actually makes you zzz.

Chloe Mac Donnell, deputy fashion and lifestyle editor, solves your wardrobe dilemmas

Q: A couple of extra piercings I had done on my ear have finally healed. I love the ear-stacking trend all over my Instagram feed but I’m unsure where to start. What guarantees impact? – Clare, Brighton

A: One quick glance at the autumn/winter catwalks is all it takes to garner that teeny-tiny earrings have taken a sabbatical. In their place, chunky, weighty designs. Start with one of these. Bottega Veneta kickstarted the trend with its squat drop earrings. The high street and independent sellers on Etsy have lots of great emulations. Struggle with choosing between gold and silver? Lucy Williams’ latest collection for Missoma mixes both. You could continue the theme up the ear alternating between both metals. Remember, think durable not delicate and pick chubby, huggy-type earrings that grip the lobe such as these ones from Astrid and Miyu.

Got your own style question? Send it to fashionstatement@theguardian.com.