How having rules for everything became on trend
Rules out for summer: the unstoppable rise of ‘non-negotiables’ | The Guardian

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Jeremy Allen White as Carmy in The Bear.
camera A stickler for the rules … Jeremy Allen White as Carmy in The Bear. Photograph: FX

Rules out for summer: the unstoppable rise of ‘non-negotiables’

From TikTok to The Bear, the idea of having rules for everything – skincare, dating, puppies and Mondays – is enjoying a very rigid moment. But should these unalterables be up for discussion?

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Chloe Mac Donnell Chloe Mac Donnell
 

In the opening episode of season three of The Bear, head chef Carmy draws up a list that he titles “non-negotiables” – things that he and his team must do at all times to pursue a level of “greatness”. The list lurches between the self-explanatory (“shirts perfectly pressed”), and the nonsensical (“vibrant collaboration”). Some, such as “consolidation and speed”, sound like buzzwords he’s picked up from listening to one too many “business bro” podcasts.

But Carmy isn’t alone in his love of rules. “Non-negotiables” are a trend on social media, spanning everything from dating and health to makeup and work. On TikTok there are 54m videos discussing the term. Among the most watched – nearly 2m views and counting – is one from a user outlining seven non-negotiables that changed her dating life. They include things such as “reciprocity” and handling “your fucking emotions like an adult”.

There are morning “non-negotiables” that include doing 10,000 steps and keeping a journal, while skincare iterations suggest wearing SPF every day and dry body brushing. Sunday night “non-negotiables” include meal prepping, while nine hours of sleep are mandatory on Mondays. You name the category, there’s a non-negotiable for it. Weight loss, looking after a new puppy, weddings, holidays, parenting, job interviews and decorating … on and on they go.

In its simplest form, a non-negotiable is something that cannot be altered. There’s no umming and ahhing, no “I could do this instead” or “but what if I did that?”. So, in a world filled with options, where the “tyranny of choice” can be paralysing, is there some worth in this mandatory instruction to yourself or to others?

Liza Walter-Nelson, chair of The British Psychological Society’s Division of Occupational Psychology, says that although the term has become rampant in life coaching videos, it’s not commonly used in psychology. Instead, she points out how, in various psychological treatments such as cognitive behavioural therapy, professionals will instead typically discuss concepts such as values with their patients. Unlike non-negotiables, which are definite from the get-go, values are more nuanced as they encourage discussion. They can help people to determine their priorities and to set boundaries.

There are positives to goal setting in some environments, of course. Walter-Nelson says that in the workplace, for instance, specific objectives can give employees a clear purpose, bringing meaning to their work. “Having less confusion about what’s expected of you can also bolster your own personal wellbeing,” she says. However, she cautions against assigning “non-negotiables” to both your professional and personal life.

“In terms of therapeutic speak, a non-negotiable is very rigid as a phrase,” Walter-Nelson says. “It lacks flexibility. Most therapeutic interventions are there to help you grow. Sometimes you have to do that by being flexible. And you have to do that by being willing to change something or reframe something.”

No spoilers but, as The Bear plays out, it becomes clear how Carmy’s non-negotiables – which are full of contradictions including “respect tradition” but also “push boundaries”, and to change the menu every day but never repeat ingredients and ensure there are “no surprises” – do not go well. TikTok advocates: you have been warned.

The Measure

What’s hot – and what’s most definitely not – this week

Louis Vuitton’s Olympics tray, a Good Squish scrunchie and an ‘earlymoon’ couple.
camera Louis Vuitton’s Olympics tray, a Good Squish scrunchie and an ‘earlymoon’ couple. Photograph: Getty

Going up

Earlymoons | In addition to post-wedding getaways, couples are treating themselves to pre-wedding retreats. Designed to help them unwind before the big day, “earlymoons” feature everything from massages to cocktail-making sessions.

Pine-aissance | The secondhand furniture platform Vinterior reported a 95% increase in searches for pine last year, from reclaimed floorboards to wall panelling. Is this finally the end of greige?

Status trays | Winning Olympians at the Paris 2024 games will be presented with medals displayed on Louis Vuitton-designed leather trays covered in the fashion house’s signature motif. Just slightly fancier than a bog standard tea tray, then.

Going down

WFH | More than six million British office workers plan to “WFB” this summer – that’s work from the beach. Bring on the sun, sea and spreadsheets.

Padded hairbands | The latest greasy hair hack involves adding a supersized scrunchie to scraped-back ponytails and low buns. See Good Squish, which uses deadstock fabrics to make brightly coloured scrunchies as big as side plates, and the very chic Parisian brand the Irish Twin, which specialises in layered lace versions.

Picnics | “Wild eating” is a new term that’s trending on Chinese social media. Less check blankets and wicker baskets and more scoffing lunch on the go, fans say it “prioritises simplicity and spontaneity”.

 
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Reads of the week

A dedicated Hello Kitty plushie space at Somerset House’s Cute exhibition in London.
camera A dedicated Hello Kitty plushie space at Somerset House’s Cute exhibition in London. Photograph: Guy Bell/Rex/Shutterstock

Obsessed with Hello Kitty? You’re not alone. Refinery29 explores the feline’s cult appeal.

The iPhone Notes app has become a somewhat unexpected outfit planning tool, reports Vogue Business.

Fashionista speaks to the costume designer of MaXXXine about double denim and that green varsity jacket.

Shein is to launch a €200m (£170m) circularity fund championing textile recycling. BOF describes the move as a “pre-IPO charm offensive”.

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Style Clinic

Chloe Mac Donnell, deputy fashion editor, solves your wardrobe dilemmas

Women in white V-neck T-shirt
camera Sustainably produced T-shirts start at £18. Photograph: Ninety Percent

Q: I’m tired of buying fast-fashion T-shirts – some not at fast-fashion prices – that almost instantly fade, stretch or otherwise disintegrate. I’d like to invest in a few wardrobe staples that will endure. Without committing to triple-digit prices, which brands and models would you recommend for a basic women’s jersey shirt. No crazy asymmetrical styles, weird tailoring or oversized options, though – I just want well-made basics. – Helen, Cambridge

A: Have a browse of the British brand Ninety Percent. It’s a company that aims to prioritise certified organic materials and workers’ rights. Its Drew T-shirt has a slim fit, while its Marisa option has a V-shaped neckline. The Isle of Wight based Rapanui, which specialises in circular fashion, offers high quality white T-shirts that start from £18. Check out Colourful Standard, too. It doesn’t get much brighter than its optical white T-shirt that is dyed without harmful chemicals.

Got your own style question? Send it to fashionstatement@theguardian.com.

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