I’ve always avoided turkey. Now, I’ve met one I can’t resist.

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A Turkey for Skeptics

I’ve spent the better part of my food writing career begging people to unshackle themselves from Thanksgiving traditions. Not into stuffing? Make a salad! Hate apple pie? Serve some chocolate! Despite what we all think, the Thanksgiving meal is not dictated by forces beyond our control, and I promise you, there’s no law that says that you have to serve turkey. (Try to skip the pie altogether, though, and make no mistake—I will take you to court.)

Because I love to deviate from tradition, I often skip the turkey altogether (didn’t I just tell you to make a Thanksgiving chicken?). But this year I met a turkey I can’t resist. Chris Morocco’s recipe for confit turkey legs (part of our Thanksgiving menu for a small crowd) is not only a wildly delicious take on the Thanksgiving bird—it’s one of the best things I’ve eaten all year, period. The legs are slow-cooked with chiles and garlic; later, those chiles get blended with almonds into a sauce that owes its inspiration to salsa macha. The result is so luscious and savory that it barely resembles a Thanksgiving turkey at all. And that’s exactly how I like it.

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